Help, I am trying to build portable bass traps.

Posted: Sat Feb 08, 2003 7:54 pm

I am attempting to build a project studio in my basement [sound familiar] . The basement is already finished including carpet and an ugly fireplace. There is a nasty slapback echo that hits you in the face as soon as you walk into either room. The control room is worse probably because of the fireplace.

The control room is 16x12 and the studio is 16x8. I am renting the house which prevents me from using permanent fixtures [my landlord would kill me if I used silicon caulk to seal bass traps to the wall]. I found Ethan Winer's bass trap plans which I am trying to build. I am not sure how to make them portable. I was thinking of using a solid plywood for the back but a friend of mine told me that plywood would resonate and therfore defeat the purpose of building the bass trap in the first place. The only other products that I am aware of that can be used for the back of the traps are MDF or wallboard. I don't think I want to use wallboard because it is too brittle. Cutting wallboard evenly is difficult and messy. MDF might work but it is extremely heavy.

Does anyone have any other suggestions for the backing material for a portable version of Ethan's bass trap?

Must all of Ethan's trap designs be sealed inorder to be effective? Hight/Mid, High Bass, Deep Bass.

Given that I have 1350 cubic feet in the control room and 1000 cubic feet in the studio, how many bass traps do I need inorder to bring rooms of this size under control?

If my budget is under $2000, should I prioritize bass traps before or after high frequency treatment?

Can I use O&C #703 without a wooden frame [ala cheaper version of Ethan's mid/high absorber] to control hich frequencies?

I basicall want to try placing the 703 in places I know are causing problems without creating a frame and mounting it to a wall. I was considering using t pins to secure the 703 to the walls.

Thanks in advance.

Posted: Mon Feb 10, 2003 3:08 pm

Hi Roger,

You can do what you are thinking with the bass traps, just make sure that the wood (mdf or whatever)for the back is heavy enough (5/8") that it won't resonate. Make sure you seal it well.

For the 703, you could do it without a frame and it would work, but every time you bumped into the corner of it it would get smashed. The wood for the frame doesnt have to be very thick, it is just to provide some protection.

Eric

Posted: Tue Feb 11, 2003 6:22 am

Roger,

> I was thinking of using a solid plywood for the back <

You can use a back, but it must be at least two or three times heavier and more dense than the front panel. 3/4-inch MDF or plywood should work fine.

> Must all of Ethan's trap designs be sealed inorder to be effective? Hight/Mid, High Bass, Deep Bass. <

The plywood panel traps must be sealed air tight. The mid/high absorbers are just fiberglass, with a frame to protect them and fabric to make them look nice.

> Given that I have 1350 cubic feet in the control room and 1000 cubic feet in the studio, how many bass traps do I need inorder to bring rooms of this size under control? <

As many as you can fit and afford! You'll need at least eight bass panel traps - four low-bass and four high-bass - with one pair in each corner. You can then add between two and eight mid/high absorbers, depending on how live you want the room to sound. Four is probably a good balance.

> I basicall want to try placing the 703 in places I know are causing problems without creating a frame and mounting it to a wall. <

Sure, that's a good idea.

--Ethan

Posted: Tue Feb 11, 2003 8:45 am

Oh great! I too am building 10 portable traps. But I used 1/8 inch tempered hardwood for backing and for the fronts of the high bass traps(1/8 inch plywood was not easily available). Are you telling me my traps are worthless? Is there an easy fix?

Thanks

Posted: Tue Feb 11, 2003 10:25 am

Hogleg,

> I used 1/8 inch tempered hardwood for backing and for the fronts of the high bass traps ... Are you telling me my traps are worthless? <

Probably not worthless, but surely not as absorbent at low frequencies as if you had used a more substantial back.

--Ethan

Posted: Tue Feb 11, 2003 10:42 am

Thanks for the reply Ethan,
Would it help if I screwed 5/8 drywall to the back of what I already have? That would be an easy fix for me.

Posted: Tue Feb 11, 2003 10:44 am

Apologies if I'm taking over this thread.

Posted: Tue Feb 11, 2003 11:55 am

HL,

> Would it help if I screwed 5/8 drywall to the back of what I already have? <

Sure, that's a good solution. But also apply a liberal amount of glue all over both surfaces to securely anchor the two pieces together.

--Ethan

Posted: Fri Feb 14, 2003 6:04 am

Hi there,

Firstly I know little about studio acoustics but I am learning!

Second much as I admire the DIY approach, these guys* seem to have it right.

www.auralex.com

And portable bass traps are here

http://www.auralex.com/bass_traps_sm-lenrd/bass_traps_sm-lenrd.asp

Happy to Help

(* - I am not affiliated in any way - I just thought their solutions looked good)

Posted: Fri Feb 14, 2003 8:53 am

Gambit,

> And portable bass traps are here <

Foam rubber is not really going to do much at the lowest frequencies. 703 and 705 rigid fiberglass are more effective than foam, but even those are not as effective as the wood panel traps Roger and I have been discussing.

--Ethan

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