Resilient channel. Doesn't grow on trees.

Posted: Mon May 19, 2003 1:45 am

Hey,
I've run into a problem....again. I'm building a studio. With all the talk about resilient channel I assumed it was plentiful. However, when I tried to purchase the channel at my local super DIY stores I was met with blank stares and replies similar to: "Rizzy whot?". An online search verified neither Lowe's nor Home Depot carry it. Where can I find it? Any direction would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, J

Posted: Mon May 19, 2003 3:16 am

Try your local drywall supply house.

Posted: Mon May 19, 2003 9:25 am

I got mine at Home Depot. Yours may not, but it's maybe worth a call. Their Web site is fairly useless as a comprehensive guide to their products.

Posted: Mon May 19, 2003 9:07 pm

Thanks guys. I actually stopped in to Home Depot this morning and they do indeed have some in stock. You're right the website is just about useless. Thanks for all your help. J

Posted: Tue May 20, 2003 8:41 am

Quote:

Originally posted by Digipenguin:
Thanks guys. I actually stopped in to Home Depot this morning and they do indeed have some in stock. You're right the website is just about useless. Thanks for all your help. J

I used resilient channels in my home theater. I am an architect and these things have to be installed correctly or they will not work. The contractor initially installed the resilient channels incorrectly and I made him tear them out and reinstall them correctly. If you would like a specification for installing resilient channels correctly e-mail me at jkowalski@owpp.com.

Posted: Tue May 20, 2003 4:00 pm

Digi,

Ask for USG RC-1. Industrial suppliers of metal studs and such should have it.

JohnnyK wrote an excellent instruction page on the installation of RC-1 in an earlier post:

http://www.recording.org/cgi-local/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=34;t=000208

--Wes

Posted: Wed May 21, 2003 12:12 pm

Yep, those are my specs for installing resilient channels and the specs need to be followed exactly or else you have wasted a lot of money.

The most important part of the spec is how the channels are attached to the studs and joists. The screw must be located ONLY in the punched HOLES, not in the punched slots. Also, the screws that are used to fasten the drywall to the channels must be short, or else they will enter the studs or joists which will short circuit the channels.

Posted: Wed May 21, 2003 4:33 pm

"Also, the screws that are used to fasten the drywall to the channels must be short, or else they will enter the studs or joists which will short circuit the channels. " -

If you use masking tape or other temporary markings to show where all studs are in a wall, you can stop worrying about shorting out the RC - just don't drive any screws where the stud markers are when attaching the drywall. Still, an excellent guide - thanks, JohhnyK... Steve

Posted: Thu May 22, 2003 1:16 am

Thanks guys. This has all been very helpful. However I am afraid I made a terminology mistake. I am indeed using hatchannel, not resilient channel, but I am using a product called a Resilient channel isolation clip to isolate the channel from the wall. They call it an 'RC clip' when it should be a 'hat channel clip' I guess.
JohnnyK - I was just about to e-mail you when I read the next couple repies. Thanks for all your help. Do you have any knowledge/ experience/ links about this type of wall construction? I am doing all the work myself and while I am confident in my abilities, I eat up any resources I can find. Thanks, J

Posted: Thu May 22, 2003 5:53 am

Hat channel is usally used for furring out concrete or block walls. Even with the clips I don't think it would be as effective as r-channel. I used r-channel in the studio in my house and with a full rock band gettin on you can barely hear some bass when standing outside. No complaints from neighbors! I also have some experience with commercial metal stud framing so I knew the importance of proper installation as the posters stated above.

Posted: Thu May 22, 2003 8:42 am

Hogleg, J is talking about a relatively new product called the RSIC-1 (www.pac-intl.com). They boast a 7 dB greater TL than standard resilient channel. I asked about this gizmo on alt.sci.acoustics, where Noral Stewart replied that the theory is good, because there are less contact points. It's really quite an ingenious little clip, made of a rubber grommet that has something like 12 tiny little feet that help keep the clip and the hat channel that the clip holds away from the stud. It also pushes the drywall 1 5/8" away from the stud, rather than the standard 1/2" of standard resilient channel. So instead of there being a 4" air gap filled with 3 1/2" of insulation, you end up with a 5 1/8" air gap stuffed with 6 1/2" of insulation. That has the added advantage of letting the insulation ever so gently damp the drywall on both sides of the wall. Plus, we already know that the more air you get lock into the cavity, the better in general will be your low-end Transmission Loss. It's really quite clever. And hey, 7 dB ain't too shabby.

Posted: Thu May 22, 2003 6:47 pm

Damn, that sounds great. Thanks for the info jazzman!

Posted: Thu May 22, 2003 8:08 pm

Has anyone done a study of the costs of going either way? I looked at both, and the cost of the clips (AU$5.00 each) (AU$ = Australian Dollars) + you still need to use Hat Channel as well, seems to make it a lot more expensive compared to just using Resilient channel. Basically the cost of the Rubber Mounts is extra. soon adds up to a lot of bikkies.

Posted: Fri May 23, 2003 8:15 pm

Regarding the cost, go to pac-intl.com and you can compare labor costs. Since there are less contact points, it takes less time to screw all this stuff in. I also once spoke with a builder who told me that in thirty installations of standard resilient channel performed by standard workmen, every single one was installed wrong. The RSIC-1 clip is a lot easier for standard workers to install correctly since there's not much that can go wrong. Plus it's easier to screw into hat track. And, with the hat track so much farther away from the studs, it's much less likely that an errant screw will short out the isolation. (I don't work for the company, really!)

Posted: Thu May 29, 2003 12:10 am

I can vouch for it being easy. I was able to do two walls completely by myself. One of them is 24' long. 1 wall left and I'll be done. I even have the amp room and vocal booths done! Woo Hoo! I'll let you guys know what my measurements are in sound reduction when it's done. J

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