Rod, which seal and steel?

Posted: Tue Nov 08, 2005 10:35 am

Hi Rod,

At pemko.com I can only find HSS1000 and HSS2000, but they're not metal, they're intumescent--expandable graphite strips.

They also have metal strips, but unfortunately they're only aluminum.

Any other leads for metal strips to attach to a wood door for use with a magnetic strip?

Lee

Posted: Tue Nov 08, 2005 9:22 pm

Lee,

at Home-despot - in the bin with the angle iron and threaded rod - they have 1/8" x 1/4" (or 3/8") steel stripos by 4' lengths - that would work well - you would just have to paint it with a good quality steel primer and a couple of coats of high quality automotive paint.

Better yet if you could bake the paint - perhaps have an autobody shop do the paint for you - how much could it cost if they were painting a car a the time as well?

Rod

Posted: Tue Nov 08, 2005 9:56 pm

Thank you, Sir (you should be knighted by now). I'll look into that.

Lee

Posted: Wed Nov 09, 2005 4:56 am

Yes, thank you Rod...the picture is worth a whole buncha words Very Happy

Posted: Wed Nov 09, 2005 8:50 am

Pemko is another source for magnetic seals. This is their model 281_M:

The upper drawing is for the latch side, the lower for the hinge side.

These list at $4.70 a linear foot. One nice thing about them is that the screw hole is a slot, allowing for easier adjustment in case you ever need to tweak the fit. I also like the fact that they just screw on to the first stop. Rod's multiple layers of full-depth stops are more massive, and I'm sure more effective. But for less critical doors this may be an easy-to-add alternative.

Anybody have experience with these?

Lee

Posted: Wed Nov 09, 2005 3:04 pm

Are the corners air tight with these magnetic seals?
Or do you glue them together or something.

Posted: Wed Nov 09, 2005 4:13 pm

Should be as air-tight as a fridge.

Looks like a friction fit and screw-down, Z. Otherwise, if you glued them down, you couldn't adjust them later if you needed to.

Lee

Posted: Wed Nov 09, 2005 11:10 pm

jazzman_in_pa:
The corners - the vertical and the horizontal -- where the two straight runs of magnetic seal meet.

Posted: Wed Nov 09, 2005 11:26 pm

If you mortise [edit: miter (d'oh)] them and attach them to each other at the corner, why not?

But I believe you only use one vertical, not two. The hinge side traditionally uses a quarter-round squishable element. At least that's how a Stanley metal door in our house works. Just like all the kerfed magnetic seals I've ever seen at Home Depot.

Lee

Posted: Thu Nov 10, 2005 11:22 am

jazzman_in_pa wrote:

If you mortise them and attach them to each other at the corner, why not?

But I believe you only use one vertical, not two. The hinge side traditionally uses a quarter-round squishable element. At least that's how a Stanley metal door in our house works. Just like all the kerfed magnetic seals I've ever seen at Home Depot.

Lee

Lee - with my doors - the detail you see (for the latch side) is included both sides and top.

Bob,

You don't glue anything - you mitre the corners nicely with the mags - don't have to glue the corners.

When you install the rubber - you use a smidgen of siicone caulk to glue those together in the mitres in the corner. But this would not work well with the mags -

The triple seal is one heck of a way to stop air flow.

Between that - and the lead with added plywood on a solid core door - you have one heck of a piece of air tight mass creating your sealed assembly.

The greatest care needs to be taken at the door bottom -

Rod

Posted: Thu Nov 10, 2005 1:10 pm

Rod wrote:

Quote:

The triple seal is one heck of a way to stop air flow.

Pemko recommends one OR TWO of its S88 teardrop seals on the door jamb for along the door edge, in addition to whatever else you're using.

Anybody have any experience with the S88?

Lee

Posted: Thu Nov 10, 2005 3:28 pm

Lee,

I prefer the trunk rubber - I've used those seals on standard doors - but the trunk rubber is "da bomb".

Did you look at the detail I posted? The same multiple seal as they reccomend - just a different seal.

Rod

Posted: Thu Nov 10, 2005 5:36 pm

Rod,

Thanks, I wanted to hear your opinion of these teardrops. Yes, I saw the detail. It's a very cool design, and I wish I had the room for it everywhere. I especially like the deep 1-by material that extends out to the edge of the jamb to back up the trunk rubber or magnetic seal.

But nearly all my doors are only 32", and the triple stop on each side would reduce the width of the opening by a total of 4-1/2", down to 27-1/2". That's too tight for comfort when carrying kick drums or other wide equipment through. I plan to use the triple stop on the one 36" door I've got, but what's the best compromise for a 32" door?

On a 32" door, what if I only use a double stop on each side, one for the trunk rubber and one for the magnetic seal, but add the Pemko teardrop seal here?

Would the benefit be worth it (about a buck a foot extra)?
Thanks, buddy. I can't thank you enough for how generous you are with all of us.

Lee

Posted: Tue Nov 29, 2005 10:35 pm

Hi Rod,

Well, I'm about to dive in on your door frame design...am ordering a prehung solid core with 4 huge ball-bearing hinges, the trunk rubber, and the Pemko mag seal (the Zero International lists at $21/lin ft according to their sales rep...Pemko's $4.70 sounds a bit better budget-wise if they operate similarly).

I was wondering:

1) On the wood stops it looks like there's an angled notch cut into the first two (I'm assuming for the thin side of the trunk rubber to fit into)...is that right? And just use cement to mount the rubber?

2) Is lead magnetic? Wasn't sure if the sheet lead could be placed on the outside of the MDF layer and painted, avoiding the need for metal strips to grab the mag weatherstrips.

3) I want to make sure the door bottom is right, and I'm thinking of going with an automatic bottom and threshold from Acoustical Solutions (just the bottom, not the jamb kits):
http://www.acousticalsolutions.com/products/doors/seal_kits.asp
http://www.acousticalsolutions.com/products/pdfs/diag_seal_kit_170.pdf
That a good choice? Any other comparable options?

Thanks again for the sage advice,
Michael

Posted: Wed Nov 30, 2005 8:06 am

jazzman_in_pa wrote:

Rod,

Thanks, I wanted to hear your opinion of these teardrops. Yes, I saw the detail. It's a very cool design, and I wish I had the room for it everywhere. I especially like the deep 1-by material that extends out to the edge of the jamb to back up the trunk rubber or magnetic seal.

But nearly all my doors are only 32", and the triple stop on each side would reduce the width of the opening by a total of 4-1/2", down to 27-1/2". That's too tight for comfort when carrying kick drums or other wide equipment through. I plan to use the triple stop on the one 36" door I've got, but what's the best compromise for a 32" door?

On a 32" door, what if I only use a double stop on each side, one for the trunk rubber and one for the magnetic seal, but add the Pemko teardrop seal here?

Would the benefit be worth it (about a buck a foot extra)?
Thanks, buddy. I can't thank you enough for how generous you are with all of us.

Lee

Lee,

That would work just fine - the idea is (as always) just to stop air movement - however that's acheived is as good as any other way.

Thanks for the kind words.

Rod

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