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multoc
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2007 6:52 am Reply with quoteBack to top

Use tall boards in front of the existing wall, basically because I live with my parents I can't have the luxury of doing whatever i want to my walls. So can you offer me some alternatives to make this work out in my favor.

I figure treating my room wouldn't hurt anything.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2007 7:40 am Reply with quoteBack to top

What I've found that has worked quite well is to use acoustic cieling tile (2' x 4') as a backer for the foam. Use 5 drywall screws to secure the tiles to the wall (4 corners and center) and then glue the foam to it.

If you get creative, you can also put some 1" and 2" strips along the back of the tiles and get some distance from the walls this way.

I've done this exact thing in my studio to avoid the glue situation. When I take them down, it's a matter of spackling a few small holes and some touch up paint. Perhaps 2 hours worth of work at most.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2007 10:04 am Reply with quoteBack to top

If you've got gypsum walls, go for the T-pins. 1-2 boxes will do quite a bit of foam. Only place it might not work is on the ceiling, in which case, use Cucco's suggestion.

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multoc
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2007 2:55 pm Reply with quoteBack to top

well problem is i can't really drill holes because I'm in a finished basement with wall paper and about 4 foot tall wooden panels underneath that...so everything would have to be amazingly temporary

so any advice based on this new info would be great....i know one thing i can do is buy some bass traps and stack them tall in a few corners...but for the panels and other things are where my problems arise

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2007 4:41 pm Reply with quoteBack to top

T-pins!!!

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multoc
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2007 5:04 pm Reply with quoteBack to top

T-pins huh?

See ive been using big push pins on heavier bed foam and it leaves big holes in the wall and then i get yelled at lol

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2007 8:41 pm Reply with quoteBack to top

Build free standing panels?

Light weight batten screwed together then install like Cucco suggested?

Or maybe hang a light weight version from the ceiling?
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2007 9:22 pm Reply with quoteBack to top

try velcro. i think the glue on the back of the pieces might be water soluble

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2007 5:22 am Reply with quoteBack to top

You could glue it to a piece of wood then hang it with something like this www.ooks.com. Honestly if you go through all of that then you may want to look into rigid fiberglass or mineral wool.

Glenn

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2007 9:59 am Reply with quoteBack to top

Getting yelled at for push pin holes? Are your parents gypsum nazis or something? You can cover up a push pin hole with just about anything. Try just a tiny bit of spackle, plaster of paris (or even toothpaste!) when you take the pins out. You'll never know it was there.

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multoc
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2007 10:14 am Reply with quoteBack to top

Ha no theyre not that bad, but the problem has to do with white wallpaper, and the backing wall is made of this thin foam like material, so when you pull the pin out it leaves a dark unsightly hole...if it were any other wall material then i doubt they'd care...but i see where there comin from so that's why im looking for alternatives, such as removable false walls

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2007 12:07 pm Reply with quoteBack to top

I don't understand...
It's wall paper over thin foam-like stuff?

That doesn't sound like it would:
A - meet code
B - support the weight of even the lightest of acoustic products

Perhaps it's time to get a little dirty and learn the art of drywalling...

For about $100 in tools and $5 a sheet of drywall, you too can have solid walls that you can spackle with toothpaste! (Just make sure it's white toothpaste...you wouldn't want to spackle with Close-up.)

Besides, the life lessons learned while hanging drywall are priceless...like, all rooms are not made square and it's best to measure all cuts before making them! Or, screw and glue may take a few extra seconds per sheet, but in the long run, it's WELL worth it. Or, using a wet sponge instead of sandpaper to rid excess mud is much easier on your lungs and your electronic equipment.

Cool

J.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2007 7:00 pm Reply with quoteBack to top

myfipie wrote:
You could glue it to a piece of wood then hang it with something like this www.ooks.com.


I get it.
Your not really supposed to click on the link!
When you do and subsequently, in polite conversation, bring it up here and other areas of the forum, that the link is broken then everyone knows "that brianless wonder clicked the link...what a maroon:)"



Finally, I'm gettin' the hang of this place.
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2007 7:46 pm Reply with quoteBack to top

Ha! I can't quite describe it nicely I guess...it's definitely up to code but it's also a 50+ year old home. But now that I think about it, theres only a couple spots that have the foamy material, its not foamy but that's the only way ican describe it, it's easy to poke holes in - like guitarists taking their guitars off leave headstock shaped dents in it...

The rest of the walls just leave ugly hole marks like I said, and since it's a finished basement...and i don't own the place, dry walling simply isn't an option...

How well do false walls work? Like just getting plywood and attaching/affixing the acoustic material to those walls, that lay flat against the existing walls..I'm sure not terribly well, but if could yield some results couldn't it?

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 26, 2007 5:47 am Reply with quoteBack to top

multoc

Just make up a couple of panels and hang them from mic stands........ It will even look like something in a studio - they always have some movable treatments - and it will be more versitile for you

Rod

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