need help getting my mixer hooked up properly..

[djmukilteo]

Typical bi-amp situation starts with a full range signal filtered either by an EQ or using an active electronic crossover unit and then fed to two amps and on to each driver.
I think the pictures indicate two output jacks from the powered mixer for HI into the cab and one LO for each channel L/R.
So one HIR, one LOR, one HIL and one LOL....(LOL)
The internal crossover input is split at the HI/LO connectors and combined on the Normal.
In normal mode you can parallel off to another cabinet (amp feedthru)
mixer will drive 2 cabinets at 4ohms@200watts max.

And DaveDog is correct if you connect it up normal and it works but one of the drivers doesn't work in the HI/LO mode....more than likely the crossover has a problem...

[dvdhawk]

I agree with DaveDog the crossover is probably already shot. Or a previous owner may have trashed it. Some have internal fuses.
There's no way to tell what failed when. But I can guarantee you that if you power the horn/tweeter without a crossover the horn's going to fry as well. It may not happen at low volume right away, but it will happen.

(I don't care what some Peavey "technician" told you on the phone)

it has less to do with power than the distance the voice-coil is capable of traveling.

EDIT* re-read DaveDog's reply regarding piezos. I had not considered the possibility of it being a pseudo tweeter, such as piezo. Because I can't for the life of me imagine why such a cabinet would ever be any more useful bi-amped. But that is one explanation that would keep the tweeter from scattering.

However, curious enough to download the PV SP 5-Ti manual which states the horn is a 2" compression driver. And if that's what you have I stand by my original assertion that it will not tolerate being run full-range for very long.

Anyway, believe me - don't believe me. Do it however you want, I'm just trying to save you some repairs.

[dvdhawk]

I have a question that maybe Bos or DVD could answer. If the speakers were daisy chained and since they are 8 ohm impedance we end up with 4 ohms of resistance. If instead we run a seperate speaker wire from each of the paralleled outputs on the right side of the amp to each individual speaker cabinet is the resistance 8 ohms each? Or do they sum to 4 ohms because the amp is paralleled?

JG the resulting load to the amp is the same.

It doesn't matter if you use the parallel jacks on the cabinet or the parallel outputs from the amp. The cabinets are still in parallel and the nominal impedance will be the same [4-ohms in this case] as far as the amp is concerned.

[djmukilteo]

There's no way you can feed the tweeter full range with either jack anyway.....the HI still goes thru the internal crossover from either jack! Hi or Normal
Check each jack one at a time Hi Lo and Normal and see what the results are....it's either an open or short....more than likely the output cap on the crossover is blown....if it was a short your amp would have grunted a bit!

[Davedog]

There's no way you can feed the tweeter full range with either jack anyway.....the HI still goes thru the internal crossover from either jack! Hi or Normal
Check each jack one at a time Hi Lo and Normal and see what the results are....it's either an open or short....more than likely the output cap on the crossover is blown....if it was a short your amp would have grunted a bit!

Interesting. So the Low has the switched jack on it not the Hi?? I havent looked at the PDF schematic to determine all this.

If this is the case, and the horn works when its plugged into from the Hi in in 'bi-amp' mode, then its probably only a wire off. Doesnt Peavey spade connect all the speakers?

A long trip in a shipping box could loosen this up.

Maybe I'll look up the schematic and see whats what....BUT I am a lazy SOB....

[djmukilteo]

Davedog:
I didn't look at the schematic either, but I've seen other cabinets that have "bi-amp" capabilities using a "full range" input.
They usually design the crossover such that no matter what you plug in...the internal crossover still splits to each LO driver and HI driver. Split or Normal
The only thing you need to do is create a split path into the crossover because the output of the crossover is always wired directly to its appropriate driver....if that makes sense....you could do that with lifted or switched input jacks

[BoomTastic]

I agree with DaveDog the crossover is probably already shot. Or a previous owner may have trashed it. Some have internal fuses.
There's no way to tell what failed when. But I can guarantee you that if you power the horn/tweeter without a crossover the horn's going to fry as well. It may not happen at low volume right away, but it will happen.

(I don't care what some Peavey "technician" told you on the phone)

it has less to do with power than the distance the voice-coil is capable of traveling.

EDIT* re-read DaveDog's reply regarding piezos. I had not considered the possibility of it being a pseudo tweeter, such as piezo. Because I can't for the life of me imagine why such a cabinet would ever be any more useful bi-amped. But that is one explanation that would keep the tweeter from scattering.

However, curious enough to download the PV SP 5-Ti manual which states the horn is a 2" compression driver. And if that's what you have I stand by my original assertion that it will not tolerate being run full-range for very long.

Anyway, believe me - don't believe me. Do it however you want, I'm just trying to save you some repairs.

I wasnt trying to say the tech is right and your wrong.....or that i dont believe you...

I know that you know your stuff....as always, thanks for the help

[BoomTastic]

another dumb question...

The difference between a stereo and a mono TRS jack is that the stereo jack has two insulating rings and the mono has 1?

The cables i am using have one insulating ring...so i assume they are mono...and for sure they are probably at least 20 years old....

Do i need a stereo TRS jack for the full range to work?

Just trying to see if have overlooked something simple....

Thanks for being patient guys

[Davedog]

There will be no TRS jacks on that speaker cabinet nor on the speaker outs of the board.

[dvdhawk]

From what I've read PV used a switching jack on the HI input. Like the one shown above (if not in appearance, at least in function). Compared to a normal TS 1/4" jack on the right, you'll notice the extra blade on the jack on the left and the little nub that has to make clean contact so this can act like a normally-closed switch. When there is nothing plugged into the HI jack, that contact should be routing your signal through the crossover. When you plug in a speaker cable it separates the blades opening the switch and disconnecting that contact. That tells the crossover you're in bi-amp mode - which should in effect take the crossover out of the path. Some contact cleaner and/or some gentle adjusting (bending) of the switching part of the 1/4" jack maybe all you need to 'fix' the crossover.



This is another one of those things someone with an ohm-meter and a screwdriver should be able to get to the bottom of in 2 minutes.


You are correct in identifying your cables as mono if they have just one insulating ring. The tip of the connector is positive, then you have the insulator, then the long metal sleeve is the negative. That is the correct connector for your speakers. You just need normal 2-conductor unshielded TS cables for speakers.