need help getting my mixer hooked up properly..

[BoomTastic]

thanx hawk...

ill take the cover off the back of the speaker tonight and have a look see...

[moonbaby]

When you take the backplate off the cabinet, look inside and see if you see an automotive light bulb (12volts) on the crossover board. Peavey (and many others) has used this as a type of protective device on many crossovers, as it will absorb overpowering wattage to the HF driver. Look at that bulb and see if it is burned out.
IMO, I think that you have a blown HF diaphragm that would have occurred when you ran the fullrange signal into the HF input. Like DVD illustrated, the HF input has a switching circuit that bypasses the crossover. If that is the case, playing any amount of full range program material into that driver with no crossover filtering-no matter how low the volume level- will KILL that diaphragm. If that is a "22" model driver, I would bet that is the case. I hope that I'm wrong...

[Boswell]

The HF unit works when fed via its Bi-Amp input. I believe on those Peavey speakers the "crossover" consists of an HP filter on the HF unit and comes between the input jacks and the drive unit.

There is a normalling contact on the Bi-Amp input jacks that feeds the full-range input to the crossover in the absence of a plug in the Bi-Amp input. These normalling contacts can get dirty and/or bent. My guess is that the HF Bi-Amp jack socket needs repair or replacment.

[BoomTastic]

ok heres the guts:

I dont see anything visibly wrong. No burnt smell. and there doesnt appear to be a fuse of any kind.

Hawk, i have an Ohm-meter. Is the large round coil in the center the crossover?







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[moonbaby]

The entire board is the crossover, including that little transformer-looking thingy (called the "choke")...

[dvdhawk]

I've been busy with work and thought I'd follow up on this thread that dropped off the current topics list. I see everyone suddenly went mute.

Inductor coil, resistor, capacitors, - all those components work together as a passive crossover.

Thanks for the pictures by the way, very helpful.

If you had your horn plugged in, it would connect to the multi-pin molex connector plugged in at BCD. They've designed them so the molex connector will only go on the correct set of posts and with the correct polarity. Which would be the positive? I'm guessing D, but please check it and see. What color are the wires that connect to BCD? (it probably only uses the outer two, but again please correct me if I'm wrong)




And where does that transformer with the yellow/black connector - on the back of the jackplate figure in?

[BoomTastic]

hawk..many many thanks for the help

ok here we go:

the color of wires in relation to polarity that plug into to the speakers:

tweeter ( red wire, black wire)

red = positive
black = negative

woofer ( yellow wire, blue wire)

with the woofer, it doesnt say neg or pos. Where the yellow wire plugs into the woofer, it has a red dot on the male plug.

So i dont know if that means yellow = neg or yellow = pos.?

So in relation to the board...

sorry for the crude paint edit :lol:

in case you cant tell from the pic, the circled area is the transformer.

edit: did you need to know what A is? one of the blades on the Hi Bi Amp plug is soldered to the board right there.

[dvdhawk]

Thanks, I guessed on B & D, but A is the one I could see where it went. Your paint job is good enough to show me the red/black - just what I wanted - thanks.

Unplug everything from the crossover. Use your ohm-meter and test the red and black wires at the plug and see if the horn still reads around 8-ohms - to make sure it isn't blown.

Now with all of the plugs still disconnected from the crossover circuit board, I want you take your ohm-meter and see if there's continunity between A & B. If it reads as open when there's nothing plugged in, it's not normaling (switching closed) properly. If that's the case, that jack will either need replaced, repaired, resoldered, or at least cleaned. If it reads zero-ohms (or close), the Hi-Jack is OK and the problem is with one of the other components. It looks like you should test the Lo-Jack using the slightly different pinout testing W & X.

If the Hi and Lo Jack are OK, take a speaker cable and plug one end into a full-range input and leave the other end unplugged. Hold one test-lead firmly to the Tip of the unplugged TS connector and with the other probe, follow the positive path and make sure you have continuity through the path E-L. Testing L to M should give you the value printed on the side of the big white ceramic resistor -within a couple percent. These can fry without much visible damage. If you're good up to this point, it's got to be the coil, that transformer on the jackpanel, or one of the capacitors - or cold solder joint. It's hard to say exactly what resistance you would get with that coil S-K-R or transformer (at the transformer's connector) - but if you can't get any kind of resistance reading there is a chance they're burnt. Your ohm-meter won't be of any use testing the capacitors - unless it's a multi-meter with a capacitor checking function.


**The letters I and O have been omitted to avoid confusion.

Test away, and if it doesn't shed any light on the problem. You may want to take all those parts you've got scattered on the table and take them to the service center you mentioned.

[BoomTastic]

awesome....

ill start checking first chance i get and let you know...

BTW....i have a top of the line fluke multi-meter ( bought it 6 years ago) and yes i do believe it can test just about everything including testing capacitors...

[BoomTastic]

i get 4.5Ω the tweeter and 6Ω on the woofer? Does the crossover change the resistance to 8Ω?

yes theres continuity between A & B with nothing plugged in and it shows 1.4Ω

I get around 30 MΩ on W & X with nothing plugged in. Although it keeps fluctuating from 28 to around 32 on its own. My meter has a an "alert" feature when checking for continuity. It beeps to tell me i have continuity on A & B, but it doesnt on W & X...yet with W & X i still get a resistance reading..why?

edit: hold up, now i tried it again and i get a low reading, around 0.7Ω and a beep from my meter saying theres continuity. weird? have something to do with after ran the test of plugging in the TS connector? ( everything is unlplugged right now)

If the Hi and Lo Jack are OK, take a speaker cable and plug one end into a full-range input and leave the other end unplugged. Hold one test-lead firmly to the Tip of the unplugged TS connector and with the other probe, follow the positive path and make sure you have continuity through the path E-L. Testing L to M should give you the value printed on the side of the big white ceramic resistor -within a couple percent. These can fry without much visible damage.

E - L with the TS connector has continuity all the way down the path, and resistance is low, around 0.5Ω

ceramice resistor shows 3Ω, and on the side of the resistor it says 2.7Ω 10% ....which must mean 2.7 to within 10 percent? so its good i think then.

The transformers connector shows continuity 0.3Ω But maybe its different when plugged in or energized? its says 1.00 mh on it.

So is there a way to test the coil?

The only way someone besides myself is going to fix this, is if i send the crossover to peavey to be repaired. in fact, i just went to to the biggest music store around, and they dotn fix peavey stuff. Plus, i dont trust the people in this country....they tend to be uneducated hacks.