Thread: Fixing stripped screwholes

Cleaning the holes out by drilling a larger hole and then filling with new wood is the standard way to do this. I'd drill a hole at least twice the diameter of the screw - so you will be tapping into wood rather than a combination of wood and glue. Our local hardware store has hardwood dowels in 1/8, 3/16, 1/4" and up. Use a small sanding block to make sure the ends of the dowels don't stick up above the surface.

You can check with the various luthier message boards, but my guess is that this is exactly what would be done to a vintage Les Paul. If the guitar had a lot of historic value they might try use one of the various super glue versions to harden the threads that are still there. But if the old wood has been stripped out there is no cure but to put new wood back in. The key is doing a clean neat job (even if it is going to be hidden under the bridge).

By the way, using a toothpick is actually another way of doing this same thing. If the hole is small and the toothpick is hard it is a perfectly good repair. Its not quite as good a drilling out and putting in a dowel larger than the screw since the screw will be biting into a combination of the wood of the toothpick and the guitar and the glue. But it is often an effective repair, it's easy, and it doesn't have any chance of doing damage.

I like Bob's pro way of repairing however, I found this video and thought it was interesting.

Precisely the method piano tuners use all over. The exception being I use two or three hard wood shavings instead of filling the hole entirely. All that is really needed is something for the screw to grip onto.

Bad cameraman, great technique.

This topic interested me and I called Barry L. Master Luthier, author, and guitar repairman for over thirty years. I recieved the following advice. For pickguards, coverplates, tuning machines, etc. the hardwood shaving method is the preferred system. For neck and bridge screws this is not acceptable, too much stress is transferred to the screws. Bob Roger's system is recommended, drilling out a larger hole and using a hard wood dowel.The dowel should have two 1/32" grooves cut the full length of the dowel with a file or thin handsaw to allow excess glue to escape the hole when gluing. Excess glue can cause the dowel to back out during the drying process or cause cracks in the body or finish. Yellow aliphatic resin glue (Titebond or Elmers Special Carpenters Glue) preferred. Use a drill press to drill holes and does not recommend hand drilling for the dowels or pilot holes.

Hi. I never did a 'formal' introduction on this forum.
My name is Sean, I've played guitar for 25 years. I've been a stagehand (MANY forms thereof) for around 18, much of that as a guitar tech. And have done quite a bit of repair/maintenance.

Big deal, I know. But I just wanted to shine up my two cents before I gave it;

It would be helpful to know what kind of guitar (well, bridge specifically) we're dealing with. If we're talking a two screw Floyd or Gibson bridge, I would recommend tossing out the original wood screw anchors and upgrading to ones with a threaded bushing (like these http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Bridges,...ing_Studs.html)

BUT, I doubt this is the case, otherwise that may have already come up.
So, chances are, it's likely a strat style trem or non-trem fixed bridge.
OK, then.
Yes, longer screws ARE a good approach if you have another 1/4 inch (at least) of fresh wood to bite into. But it would STILL be a good idea to throw a toothpick or two (you GOTTA show some love for the toothpick. It's not just a jerry-rigged fix anymore)in there with some glue.
Larger DIAMETER screws would be nice too, if the screw holes in the bridge plate could accommodate it, but that rarely happens.

Personally, it has to be a pretty drastic circumstance or reaming for me to consider a full plug/re-tap. ESPECIALLY if there's any 'collectible' value to be considered.
Honestly, for a fixed bridge with more than three screws, my inclination is to use two toothpicks per hole (which typically equals 2/3 of the screw diameter) provided theres still SOME grab with the screw/existing hole.(If not, then three toothpicks) Then glue, screw and set overnight.
Remember, the string tension on the bridge screws is a SIDE force, rather than a direct force. So, for a 4 or 6 screw mount, I'm comfortable with toothpicks.

A KEY benefit to the toothpick/shavings method is, there is VERY LITTLE to screw (sorry; pun) up. Whether it's a mid-fifties White Falcon, or a $150 pawn shop deluxe, if you "oops" a drilling, it's BAD. Best case scenario for recovery then is to drill wider. Worst case is to use that wood filler on the backside of the guitar.


sean

Hey Sean, welcome to the forums at RO. Thanks for the tip. After all the good advice I've gotten around here I was looking forward to putting some of it to good use, but I was kind of embarassed to find that new screws were all that was needed lol.

I bought some stainless steel #6 3/4" screws for the bridge and they took perfectly. I am thinking that they are a bit long for the faceplate though so I'll probably go with #6 1/2" for those.

I don't hear the term 'Face Plate' much, but I assume you're referring to the pickguard?
If thats the case- there's no cause for concern at all to use the glue/toothpick route.
BUT, if you were lucky enough to find big enough for a fresh bite and small enough to fit the pre-existing pickguard(faceplate) holes, by all means go for it.
Certainly quicker and less 'messy'


sean