Biamp 2442 Recording, Mixing Console questions

Discussion in 'Tracking / Mixing / Editing' started by studio33, Feb 10, 2012.

  1. studio33

    studio33 Active Member

    I was just given a Biamp 2442 Recording Console. I am going to have to get the power supply fixed I think. I was thinking about using it as a summing mixer or for its pres since its got Direct outs on every channel. Or just selling it as is for a few bucks. Its in really good shape i mean almost zero wear even the leather hand rest is in perfect condition. It was never used as a touring board but only as an installation at a university. Im having arguments with myself about what to do with it. Its a simple console with not much in the way of routing but i dont need it for that really. It would just be for the pres and summing i think. Ive tried to attach pics to this hopefully they work.

    Anyone used one of these and no how the pres sound?

    I have all digital stuff right now so this old analog piece of history is tugging on my lust for some
    serious color in my sound.
    DSC00998.jpg DSC00999.jpg
     
  2. Boswell

    Boswell Moderator Distinguished Member

    That was a seriously nice console in its day, albeit not with the lowest noise levels. Not many designs in this price bracket had a quality input transformer on every channel.

    It would be worth considering it as an effect for a few channels (e.g. vocals), but I would think carefully before putting a 2-track mix though it.

    What's the problem with the power supply?
     
  3. Davedog

    Davedog Distinguished Member

    These were very good in their day. A quality built and excellent sounding mid-range console. The recording boards were even better. At the age it is, you will probably have to replace some caps and such but a refurbished unit like this, even though it wont bring a lot of money as a resale, can bring a lot of sonic pleasure to a mix. The pres arent Neve or API but they arent Tascam or Mackie either.

    I mixed a lot of shows at venues with these in place. The EQ's werent as sweet as the big Yamahas but worked enough for live.
     
  4. studio33

    studio33 Active Member

    Ok im gonna get it going now you have convinced me.

    I plugged the power supply in yesterday and the light lit so its getting to the light at least. Looks like they took it apart to try to fix it but lost some screws. No biggy there. Ok the bad news. The phantom power light looks to be missing. Also the previous owner cant find the cable between the console and the supply so I might need to make one. Its a multipin so that should be fun. Maybe I can find the ends at parts express or something. If i have guys willing to guide me through this i think i can get this thing running. Im not good at electronics repair but I can follow direction and I can solder so anyone down for walking me through this? I mean I am way bigger than that power supply, I think I could kick its ass. Here is the link to where the schematic is. Its under discontinued products downloads and then 24-28 series mixing console. There are 2 downloads a schematic and a manual. We can do this. Biamp Professional Audio Systems - Downloads
     
  5. Boswell

    Boswell Moderator Distinguished Member

    I don't think the "24-28 series" is the correct manual set for your mixer. The "42 series" is closer, although the manual and schematic refer only to the 16-channel version. Here are links to the Operation Manual and the Schematic.

    The operation manual states that the power supply cable has 16-pin connectors. These connectors may be difficult to find if you are contemplating making a new cable. The last page of the schematics gives a wiring schedule for the power connectors but only shows 12 pins. I would check your hardware and see whether they really are 16-pin connectors with only the first numbered 12 wired.

    For the 48V PP, don't forget there's a switch on the power supply unit itself.
     
  6. studio33

    studio33 Active Member

    Your right it is a 42 series board! The power supply says 42 series power supply right on it. Thanks for that Bos. Ok the connector has 16 pins. Whats weird is that the consoles connector has 16 and the power supply has 14 total so looks like I will be joining some wires. The connectors pins on the board are indeed numbered. Also the power supply does not have the 48v switch that is supposed to be there. There is a hole for one however. I will need to get a new switch. Yes I understand that I am going to have a tough time finding cable connectors but that just makes this more fun. I was thinking. If i cant find a connector could I just
     
  7. studio33

    studio33 Active Member

    Could I just get a different connector on both sides and rig it that way?
     
  8. Davedog

    Davedog Distinguished Member

    As long the pin-outs on both ends correspond to what they go to internally, theres nothing that says you cant use whatever you want. Be aware that changes like that will make the next person in line for ownership a little queezy. There are still BiAmp parts available. They were in business as late as a couple of years ago although their business was no long mixing consoles. All those parts are still floating around somewhere and someone has privy to them.
     
  9. studio33

    studio33 Active Member

    We are well on our way.

    ok ive found the exact parts and will be able to get them for under $20. Next hurdle is finding the correct value of the switch for the phantom power on the PSU. I have attached the schematic that shows the switch. I need to know what to buy. Will any switch that fits the socket work or do I need a certain value. I have red black and white wires going to the switch. Lastly how long should i make the cable from the board to the PSU? I was thinking 10ft i dont know though is that to long?
    Biamp phantom board.jpg
     
  10. Boswell

    Boswell Moderator Distinguished Member

    Any toggle switch that fits physically should be OK for the phantom power on/off. It controls a 50V logic signal rather than the actual power line.

    As for the length of power cable needed, I would place the console and its power supply in the positions that you would like to have them and then run a vacuuum cleaner hose between the two. Butt one end of the hose up to the output socket of the power supply and then tie a piece of string round the hose at the point where it comfortably reaches the console. Stretch the hose out straight and measure the length from the power supply end to the tape. Add about 6 inches for connector work and you have the length of power cabling needed. Resist the temptation to make it longer than you need.

    Well done for locating a source of connectors! Where did you find them in the end?
     
  11. studio33

    studio33 Active Member

    Im gonna be super honest here. I have 3 wires going to the phantom power switch area(Red Black and White). Not sure how to read that schematic on how to hook it up. If it was 2 wires I would be ok LOL. Any thoughts? I was able to find a part number on the connector thats on the power supply and went from there online and there they were in a warehouse somewhere in Texas i think. Its gonna be less than $15 for both:cool:. I also know that I need to buy a 12 conductor cable but what awg should I use? Buying electronics cable is also something im not well versed in doing.
     
  12. Boswell

    Boswell Moderator Distinguished Member

    OK, I didn't know how much experience you had with this sort of thing. You need to get an SPDT toggle switch (single-pole, double-throw).

    If you can't trace where on the circuit board your three wires originate, you will have to do a trial involving a multimeter. Prepare the ends of the 3 wires so you can momentarily touch two of them together with the power supply turned on. Use the multimeter on 100V range to see which of the wires has the 60V incoming voltage with respect to chassis. Call that wire A and the other two B and C. Only one combination of A touching B and A touching C will turn on the phantom power. Whichever wire is not being connected when the phantom power turns on is the one attached to the resistor to ground. Now turn off the mains power and connect that wire and wire A to the outer terminals of the switch and the third wire to the middle terminal. Mount the switch in the hole in the chassis in what would appear to be upside-down mode, since the toggle acts like a lever with the fulcrum inside the switch.
     
  13. Mylogon

    Mylogon Active Member

    Hello all,
    Basically I've been scouring the Internet for the last hour to try find an answer about the psu for this unit. I bought it today, second hand, from some fool for £5. He just wanted rid of it.
    Very proud
    But yeah, it came without a power cable with it, so I've bought it blind and gone out on a bit of a whim.

    If anyone could point in the right direction for a replacement not sure if it has a standard fit and has a name for it.
    My little mixer has a similar principle, but it is much smaller, so I figured it would be worth the risk.

    Thanks.
    Luke
     
  14. studio33

    studio33 Active Member

    Getting there!

    Bos. Phantom is hooked up correctly. Is it normal to be getting less than 48v across a switch like that. I think I read like 36v. Want to make sure my condensers arent going to be under powered. Anyway the readings came out just like you said except for that. Now I just need to know what cable to buy. I have 16 positions on one end and 14 on the other and the schematic is showing just 12 conductors being used. Also I need to know the awg I should buy. The wires on the inside of the PSU that are going into the back of the mounted connector are fairly thin.
     
  15. studio33

    studio33 Active Member

    Luke go to this link. The schematic for the PSU is in the schematic for the board. Go to this link and click on "discontinued product downloads" then go down to the "42 series schematic" vala! Its a downloadable PDF. Cheers Biamp Professional Audio Systems - Downloads
     
  16. Mylogon

    Mylogon Active Member

    Thanks. This could be handy. I'm not fantastic with electronics, but I'll keep it in mind.
    Basically, what I was really looking for was a ready to go power lead. As in mains plug, transformer, 16 pin plug.
    Or am I going to have as much luck as trying to find the lost arc?
    Thanks
    Luke
     
  17. Boswell

    Boswell Moderator Distinguished Member

    Well done on getting this far, but I'm slightly worried by your seeing only 36V on the switch. When the PP is switched off, there really should be something like 60V on the power wire to the switch, unless you are using a very low impedance meter. When the PP switch in in the on position, the 60V should drop to 51V. Have you used the multimeter to check the phantom power on pin 12 of the power supply output connector? It should be between 44V and 52V.

    For multi-core cable, you may have to go with what you can get. The important point is that you use power cable and not signal cable, so anything with a conductor cross sectional area of less than about 1 sq mm is not suitable. The company Pro-Power make a large range of multicores, and their CY range looks the sort of thing you would need. This is a screened multicore, and you should connect the screen to a ground pin at both ends of the run.
     
  18. studio33

    studio33 Active Member

    Bos - Well with my lack of knowledge about testers I think I was measuring on the wrong setting. I switched to 300 from 200 and now im getting 48 on pin 12 dead on so that seems to be rockin now. Now as far as the cable is concerned. What site did you find that on? I cant find a 12 conductor cy that I can buy by the meter. Thanks for all the help by the way. This is great being able to learn like this.
     
  19. Boswell

    Boswell Moderator Distinguished Member

    I'm glad you seem to have 48V on the output pin. You should check that with the PP switch off the output pin is accurately 0V and not floating around at some indeterminate level. That should confirm that you have the PP switch wired correctly.

    As for the cable, I have to apologise here. I have used the Pro-Power CY range from the UK supplier Farnell and know that you can purchase any length up to a 50m reel. I saw also that their US subsidiary Newark had the same cable, but on closer inspection it looks as though Newark will only ship whole reels, which isn't much use to you. The Pro Power make of cable was only an example, so you may have to ask around your US cable merchants to see what they have in the way of similar type of cable.
     
  20. studio33

    studio33 Active Member

    ok got the connectors and they are the right ones indeed. Exciting! Now I still need to get the cable. The techs that I talked to on the phone said they needed to know what the cable needed to be rated at in order to sell me the right stuff. Not sure what that is but. They said that 1sq mm meant very little to them. What (could I tell them based on the schem.. that I need to have.
     

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