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Digital converters

Discussion in 'Converters / Interfaces' started by rhydian, Mar 23, 2006.

  1. rhydian

    rhydian Active Member


    I'm about to invest in some AD/DA. Which of the following do you rate?

    Benchmark ADC-1 and DAC-1?
    Rosetta 200?

    I have had the Lavry Blue mentioned to me, but I need lightpipe or SPDIF and this only has AES/EBU. (Alternatively, I could use M-audio CO3 to convert between different digital formats; does any one have any experience of this and whether it degrades the digital at all?)

    Yours in anticipation

  2. rhydian

    rhydian Active Member


    Wot, no opinions!

    Regarding the CO3, from what I understand, it strips the SCMS from the incoming AES/EBU signal and passes it out to SPDIF and optical outs. Does this degrade the digital audio at all? Clearly if it does it may negate investing in Lavry converters.
  3. rhydian

    rhydian Active Member

    someone please say something (useful)! :roll:
  4. MrEase

    MrEase Active Member

    Well as no one else has answered I'll have a go. I do not know the CO3 converter but as a design engineer I can say this. The process of convertion from AES to S/PDIF should be carried out with 100% precision and is a pretty straightforward process. In terms of audio degredation the only thing that could have any effect is clock stability. This will depend on the clock source of the device receiving the S/PDIF input or the CO3 itself (or any external clock source). I would imagine that any high end device will incorporate good clock sources and if used correctly regarding clock slaving etc. you should not see any degredation in the digital domain.

    Of course this is only a commentary on what should happen and someone with direct experience of the actual units will be able to be much more specific. Good luck in your quest.
  5. rhydian

    rhydian Active Member


    Thanks. Very interesting. So a high end device (in project studdio terms) like a Lavry, with its crystal clocking should convert fine, and if the CO3 and the protools are clocked off it, then there should be no degradation.
  6. TeddyG

    TeddyG Well-Known Member

    Something useful? OK. Eventually, you've got to figure this stuff out for yourself! You seem to believe that all the magic answers to all your magic questions will come from this(Or some) forum, from people you don't know who may or may not have actual, valid experience with the items in question, or how you will work with them? I might ask the questions, just for fun or a bit of possible reference, but, I wouldn't whip out to the store solely on the advice of any forum posters...


    Start at the beginning. Pick the software you must use to accomplish your goals. Build-up your computer to meet or exceed the needs of such software. Now, go to the next step, your soundcard/interface - choosing same so as to properly support your software and work with your computer.

    For instance - I think you should pitch the "Digi" and look at something in a Lynx, or an RME. With such an investment the external converters you mention may be superfluous(And a Lynx Aurora or a Lavry if still more conversion is needed would be, at least, relevent.). You don't want to conform the rest of your system to SP/dif, or a Digi 002, if possible, as AES/EBU IS the professional interface of choice -- conform future purchases(Or - GO BACK and re-form your base) to AES/EBU(Though both Lynx and RME will work with SP/dif, if you must.)... Point is, start with a good, solid, professional "base". Why would you add multi-thousand dollar converters or Adam speakers to something as cheap as a Digi? Like putting $2000 tires on your 5 year-old Sonata..?

    Only way to really determine which speakers is to listen to them -- like find a place that sells all 3 types you may narrow down to, A/B/C them, take home the ones you like and learn to use them... You're talking fairly pricey speakers(No matter which, if of "same" price/specs, are pretty much the same.) and speakers are a very important part of your system, so one could easily justify a rather considerable "trip", if needed. Even if only one "brand/model" is contemplated(Like the Adams), a trip to listen 'em over in person(Like at Mercenary Audio, where you could probably listen in a "studio" environment, if you made an appointment and asked Fletcher, nice) would be a really, really good idea.

    This is pretty important stuff you're talking about here, and while it's fine to ask on the forums, you MUST investigate these things, personally and in-person, wherever possible, before any such major purchase. Proper research will allow you to KNOW what you want, before handing over the credit card, which is a great, confidence inspiring, feeling.


    Long as we're at it: As you're apparently beginning to figure out, post ONCE per topic - like ONCE converters, ONCE speakers, etc. Gets to messy, otherwise...
  7. moonbaby

    moonbaby Mmmmmm Well-Known Member

    Teddy, you forgot to tell him about the Z-4 Oscillator option !!
  8. atlasproaudio

    atlasproaudio Active Member

    In regards to the AES to SPDIF connection, this is easily remedied by a small barrell adapter made by Canare corp, that is an AES 110ohm XLR to 75ohm SPDIF BNC. A small short BNC to gold male RCA cable is also needed (because the adapter is BNC on the SPDIF connector). And of course a standard 110ohm AES cable, with the length of your choice. Generally the whole thing costs under $75, but some people prefer the Lavry's and need SPDIF, and if so this is the simple option people have been using. Thanks.
  9. TeddyG

    TeddyG Well-Known Member

    Indeed, Nathan, thankx for that, I just wanted to make sure he doesn't get into continually trying to "adapt" his SP/dif stuff to something better, if he doesn't have to do so -- I(Wrongly, I'm sure.) put SP/dif in the same category as 1/8" jacks and plugs - which, sadly, came on my fancy Beyer, headphones --- yeek...

    BTW poster: Atlas Pro Audio would be a great place to look for upgraded gear(And advice), as well!


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