Hi Folks,
Any advice would be much appreciated.
Have had a pair of KRK rp5 (gen 2) for some years and been very happy with them
One recently failed (bass speaker not working). I am trying to decide whether to send for repair (out of warranty) which will cost £30 carriage there and back, £20 initial fee discounted from repair cost when done or the following options
1) buy a single speaker of same model and generation (maybe £115)
2) buy a pair of the next generation (£230 or so)
Main question is whether 2 speakers of same model and generation will match each other (one being some years older), as they are sold singly and also as a pair maybe there's no problem?
Obviously I am assessing the most cost effective strategy. Repair cost may work out to cost as much or more than a new single.
I have read there are diy ways to diagnose whether it is the driver or the amp that has failed but I don't really have any skills or much time to fiddle around with it?
One final option could be to part exchange the good one in order to buy a new pair.
Any thoughts or suggestions would be a great help
Thanks in advance
Jose
Topic Tags
Comments
Jose - I wouldn't worry too much about the matching, as I believ
Jose - I wouldn't worry too much about the matching, as I believe that KRK do not even match units sold as pairs in the Rokit series. However, I think you will find that a new G2 Rokit RP5 is difficult to find, as the G3 has replaced them. I remember hearing that the G3s use different transducer elements, so you can't usefully have one G2 and one G3.
L.F. transducers for the G2 are available, and they are about £30 delivered; replacing the transducer may be your best option if you can find someone to help you fit it. But first, you must establish that the problem lies with the tranducer and not with the internal amplifier. If you feel up to taking the rear off the faulty cabinet and you have a multimeter, you can perform a couple of simple measurements. In doing the following, take great care with the 240V mains input. With the back off and the rear of the woofer speaker exposed, check that there is no d.c. voltage across the speaker terminals. If there is more than about a tenth of a volt, the l.f. drive amplifier output stage is blown, and that may have burnt the speaker coil out as well.
If that's OK, set your DAW to send out a 100Hz sinewave and measure the a.c. voltage across the speaker terminals. You should see a few volts across the terminals for the 100Hz tone at an average listening level in the other RP5. If you see this and there is no sound from that unit, it is indeed the transducer that is faulty. If there is no a.c. voltage at the terminals, then either the amplifier internal fuse has blown and/or the amplifier is faulty. You can replace a fuse, but the amplifier is a different proposition for someone in your position and you should consider a new pair of speakers (G3). Remember that the fuse is there for a purpose, and a replacement may blow again immediately if the fault is still present.
Disclaimer: I am basing my comments on the KRKs that I have, which are the V6s and not the Rokits.
Thanks Donny and Boswell for your replies and sorry for giving i
Thanks Donny and Boswell for your replies and sorry for giving incomplete info.
I generally don't use them at anything like high volumes, I am lately trying to mix a low volumes as I find this gives me a clearer picture of what my mixes are doing.
they have not been subjected to any voltage spikes or high volume blasts. the tweeter is still working. I also have not seen or smelled any evidence of burning or melting.
I can't remember exactly when I bought them (new) but it is in the region of 5-8years I think.
The other valuable consideration mentioned is that the cost of repair and carriage may not be cost effective compared with that of just buying a new pair. as mentioned by Donny I could get one fixed and then the other one could fails.
All the thoughts responders have given and bearing in mind my lack of skills and confidence in electronics I am thinking it may be best to just take the hit and buy a new pair.
I can also look into to whether I can part exchange the working one into the deal. some shops like GAK may be open to this and I could save on delivery as I live nearby.
Thanks to all of you for your thoughts, much appreciated
Jose
Jose Luis, post: 443565, member: 50063 wrote: Have had a pair of
Define "some years"... How old are they? What db level do you normally mix at? If you've had them for a long time, and you tend to mix "hot" all the time, then you might want to consider replacement of both. Depending on the years, you have to ask yourself, if the one has failed, how long will it be before the other one does?
Did anything obvious occur? Did your speakers take a voltage spike, or did you accidentally throw momentary serious amplitude into them?
You didn't maybe mistakenly connect a powered signal to them?
Is the entire speaker system gone ? Or does the tweeter still work?
It could be just the woofer...it could also be a bad crossover, or, a bad amplifier.
When you look at the driver, is there any separation between the driver and the cone? Can you see or smell any evidence of burning or melting?
Well, I can't help ya there. if you don't have the inclination to do these diagnostics, or to learn how to do them, then obviously you'll have to have it sent out to someone who does know.
I wouldn't be as concerned with exact "matching" of the two woofers as I would be weighing the cost difference between having just the one repaired - - which would include shipping, insurance, bench/service fees, replacement parts cost, etc. -- and just buying a new single, or even a new pair, which would include a warranty and in many cases, free shipping, (depending on whom you buy from).
Obviously, if it's going to cost you nearly as much to repair just the one as it would be to just buy a brand new pair, then I think you've answered your own question.