if there is a demand for that part someone will have them made no matter what the start cost is. I wonder how many of these parts UA has in stock? aren't the 1176's still in production? perhaps they are having the part made by someone else now.

scratchy pots can be be cleaned. a lot of people use de-oxit but i have found that a product called LPS1 is much better.

I would risk spending the $80 on one of the ones from Ebay. What's exact model number of your 1176? Do you know which of the U2 and U3 pots you need?

I agree.

To my knowledge the replacement pot actually came from UA.
1176's are still in production and I don't expect them to stop anytime soon. But, I would expect the costs to continue rising and/or quality to become compromised due to lack of demand and cost to keep building these things at the same price.
Parts and labour , plus shipping and handling vs coding and download, its no wonder we are heading this way whether we, as analog audio files like it or not.

Through many reasons, we are wanting to believe plug-in emulation is going to replace it all and I expect we will one day forget it ever mattered. Majority of the classics pieces will all be emulated to a time that there will be no way to compare them to the real deal anyway.

Back to the OP, thanks for the cleaning tip. These are sealed pots stacked together. I've read we can drill a small hole somewhere and spray in some cleaner. How you ever done this, Kurt?

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Boswell, post: 408424 wrote: I would risk spending the $80 on one of the ones from Ebay. What's exact model number of your 1176? Do you know which of the U2 and U3 pots you need?

I'm thinking the same. They are both UA 1176 LN SN between 5500 to 5700 . The switch they replaced it with wasn't the exact same but it works like a charm. I did the soldering though and I suck at it. It wasn't as easy as I thought.

YES! HHB Canada is sending me a replacement. I love these guys. I feel like I should buy the others as backups though. 10 years from now I think I would be happy I did.

audiokid, post: 408427 wrote: I'm thinking the same. They are both UA 1176 LN SN between 5500 to 5700 . The switch they replaced it with wasn't the exact same but it works like a charm. I did the soldering though and I suck at it. It wasn't as easy as I thought.

I think we're safe in trusting that your soldering skills are better than those of whoever it was who attached the resistors to the pots in the photo.

Cleaner works, yes. I've drilled holes in hundreds of pots and sprayed in cleaner. It either gives a few years of extra life or a few days.

Here's a tip I was told over 50 years ago: if a pot is audibly scratchy, it's probably because it's being fed from a leaky d.c. blocking capacitor.

Boswell, post: 408435 wrote: I think we're safe in trusting that your soldering skills are better than those of whoever it was who attached the resistors to the pots in the photo.

Cleaner works, yes. I've drilled holes in hundreds of pots and sprayed in cleaner. It either gives a few years of extra life or a few days.

Here's a tip I was told over 50 years ago: if a pot is audibly scratchy, it's probably because it's being fed from a leaky d.c. blocking capacitor.

Well, that clean look sure looks better than my solder result ! I cooked the wire a bit and that makes me sad.
Good info to know Bos, thank you!

audiokid, post: 408425 wrote: I agree.

Back to the OP, thanks for the cleaning tip. These are sealed pots stacked together. I've read we can drill a small hole somewhere and spray in some cleaner. How you ever done this, Kurt?

 

just spray cleaner around the shaft and let it soak in then work the part. LPS1 won't stain and it dries up almost immediately. the last can of it i bought was found at Home Depot ... it's several years old and is still more than half full.

They are sending me a second and want the defected one back. Thats a good sign. But I will get a can of that, thank you.

audiokid, post: 408425 wrote:
Back to the OP, thanks for the cleaning tip. These are sealed pots stacked together. I've read we can drill a small hole somewhere and spray in some cleaner. How you ever done this, Kurt?

 

Just take it apart clean the carbon strip with distilled water ( pic attached ), let dry lube with lithium grease ( shaft sections not contact ), and reassemble.

Boswell, post: 408435 wrote:

Just take it apart clean the carbon strip with distilled water ( pic attache

Here's a tip I was told over 50 years ago: if a pot is audibly scratchy, it's probably because it's being fed from a leaky d.c. blocking capacitor.

yep leaky bad caps.

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