My Blues Jr. did that. It may be a blob of solder off a joint (hmmm...) or a small retaining screw. Get used to it. The close proximity of the speaker to the chassis will rattle all sorts of components when you turn it up. As far as the tubes are concerned, you may try replacing the 12AX7 in that stage with a 12AY7, which yields about 40% less gain. That's what a lot of SRV-type players do to their Fender reverb amps to get some color, but not as much "fuzz" when they start to turn up...it works on my Bandmaster Reverb. BTW, I loved the TONE from my Jr., but the reliability factor was a real pisser...you can minimize that by NOT using the internal speaker and going to a seperate cab so that the guts don't get rattled so badly...

Thanks man!
I just ordered a 12AY7 EH. Hope it helps :wink:
Do I just pull the old 12ax7 out and push in the 12ay7. Do I need a special tool to change tubes? I'm lost!!

Did you ever find what was moving around in your amp??

Also, whats the thing at the bottom of the cabinet. Its covered with a vinyl thing. I can't get to it but there is a wire going to it?? WTF is it. I'm intrigued! It's my first tube amp :D

You don't need a special tool to change tubes, but don't do it when the amp has been on and the tubes are warm,err, HOT! Be careful and do it in a well-lit area (probably will need a flashlight aimed at the rear chassis so you can see the area well without holding it in a hand).Note that the tube pins are oriented in a certain pattern and be careful to put it in just like the one you pulled out. Those pins are pretty easy to bend if you don't properly line them up with the socket. Try to keep any finger grease off the tube...I handle mine with a cotton glove, like the ones that "1-hour" photo labs use.
The rattle in my amp was a blob of solder that got knocked loose, and also a small retainer of some sort.
That "vinyl thing" at the bottom of your amp is...the REVERB unit!! Actually, it's the "tank" portion of the reverb. Inside that vinyl bag is a metal box with a couple of small springs the diameter of a pencil in it. The amp sends a small signal to a tiny transducer at one end of the springs, causing them to vibrate.Another transducer, located at the opposite end of the springs acts as a microphone and picks up their vibration (reverb), and sends that signal back to the amp to be amplified via the Reverb control. The vinyl bag helps to keep outside sounds (mainly from your speaker)
from getting to that transducer mic in the tank. This would induce rattling and very bad feedback if it wasn't kept to a minimum. BTW, smack that reverb bag when the amp is on and the reverb is on, and be prepared! It will make a crashing noise that ALL guitar players need to respect! BOING! Later...

BOING!

I've done that a few times! Great comments moonbaby. Just thought I'd add that this tube changing method applies to preamp tubes (the little ones) and not power tubes (the big ones). Changing out the power tubes involves biasing the amp which is quite a bit more complicated that the preamp tube swap. I'm sure you are aware of this but I thought someone reading this off hand might go home and swap out their EL84s for some 6L6s and wonder why it sounds like crap or explodes. Boing!!!

Wes

Cool! Great info for a tube amp noob like me!!
Never had the money before to enjoy the quality sound of those tubes. Now i'll never leave the tube world.

Last question. Actually it's two question. Would I be able to bias the amp when i change those 6L6. Are there any power tubes that will give me more headroom for my clean sound or is that all in the preamp stage?

Cheers (y)

You need to leave biasing to a service tech...the cleanliness of the amp will have to do with a variety of factors, including the output transformer, the power tubes, and the preamp and its tubes. I would steer clear from messing with the output stage on that amp unless you are a qualified tech. Changing the preamp tubes is the easiest way to clean it up, in your particular situation. Another thing to try would be to unplug that internal speaker and hook up a seperate cabinet. A 2x12" would be a substantial improvement in tone and volume foir that amp. A 4x12" (or a 4x10", for that matter) will also produce good results. You DO have to be careful that you match the cab to the amp properly (8 ohms, I believe). Bypassing the internal speaker will also prevent the potential circuit damage from the vibrations it generates.
Also, keep in mind that the Blues Deluxe was not designed to be really "clean". It will always generate a bit of "color", even when playing through the "clean" channel.
Finally, your guitar will play a significant role in how clean the amp will play. Are you using single-coil pick-ups or humbuckers? The single-coils will give you less "balls" to overdrive the amp (usually), whereas the HB's will yield a darker, "hotter"signal to OD. PEACE!

Those Fender amps sound great, but they just don't cut it on thier own with loud bass guitar and drums. The 4x10 versions are much louder though, get better coverage, and with a 12" extension get a nice balance.
Another option would be a single 12" replacement similar to the JBL D120 to get a much bigger sound with just one speaker (like the current Weber or Eminence versions of that famous but discontinued speaker).

My '65 re-issue also had early breakup that didn't suit me. It seems Fender ships current amps voiced for moderate to early breakup ideal for blues players. Its mostly the power tubes, but as others have said, a lower gain preamp tube can also help.

The Fender stock shipped tubes are usually rated at a hardness of "4" or "5" . This is Groove Tubes rating method, with "1" being the softest tube with early breakup and "10" being the hardest with the most clean headroom.

You might want to try two GT-6L6GE with a "7" or"8" rating(these are new made in USA on original General Electric equipment versions). These were a big improvement over stock to my ears. Very expensive too. Touch sensitive with lots of headroom and great harmonics.

My current mod to my Fender is four GT KT-66HP's (in place of the 6L6's) with a hardness rating of "10". Headroom!
I also have the GT Mullard re-issue 12AX7 in the preamp and phase invertor positions. One of the stock speakers is replaced with a Cannibas Rex hemp cone.
I might go back to the 6L6's but I'm having too much fun with the KT-66's in this amp right now. :wink:

As others have said, don't forget to bias power tubes if they are different than the ones you replaced, or your new tube investment may not last long!(brightly glowing red plates are a not a thrifty way to get tone).

The 4x10 versions are much louder though, get better coverage, and with a 12" extension get a nice balance.

I second that, I'm currently using a Hot Rod Deville 4X10 with a 2X12 Extension Cab. I love the punch of the 10s with the fullness of the 12s.

Wes

Wow!!!
Great posts guys. Especially Tommy. I just learned a lot and I'm still confident I'll be able to tweak my amp to perfection. (right now, at a low volume of 2 to 3, it's perfect. But it really breaks up after that.......)

I'll have to try power tubes with a 10 rating when the stock ones die!

Thank you very much for all the info! I really appreciate it!

Boltino wrote:

The 4x10 versions are much louder though, get better coverage, and with a 12" extension get a nice balance.

I second that, I'm currently using a Hot Rod Deville 4X10 with a 2X12 Extension Cab. I love the punch of the 10s with the fullness of the 12s.

Wes

That speaker combo really hits the mark in so many rigs I've heard.
I had a 4x10 Hot Rod and really loved it. Probably one of the best new amps Fender has come out with in a while IMHO. I especially liked the preamp/amp inserts. They skimped on the cabinet quality though. After I blew it up (its was a cruel act), I returned it for the used '65. My dream rig would be a couple of Hot Rods with custom made separate head cabinets, custom made 2-4x10 cabs and 2-12 extensions paired with tube upgrades for more of that British/American tone mix.

radioliver wrote: Wow!!!
Great posts guys. Especially Tommy. I just learned a lot and I'm still confident I'll be able to tweak my amp to perfection. (right now, at a low volume of 2 to 3, it's perfect. But it really breaks up after that.......)

I'll have to try power tubes with a 10 rating when the stock ones die!

Thank you very much for all the info! I really appreciate it!

You're welcome, and good luck on getting your gear to respond to the way your hands and brain want it to.

My dream rig would be a couple of Hot Rods with custom made separate head cabinets, custom made 2-4x10 cabs and 2-12 extensions paired with tube upgrades for more of that British/American tone mix.

ULLLLLGGGGHHHHH . . . . . . . . I'm drooling all over my desk!

I friend of mine builds custom extension cabs (he's a carpenter turned guitar player). I'm a having a 2 X 12 made. I'm saving for the other hodrod/extension that will finish my rig.

Tommy, what type of tubes would you use for that "British/American tone mix?"

Wes

Boltino wrote:
Tommy, what type of tubes would you use for that "British/American tone mix?"
Wes

This works for me, it's a replacement for the 6L6. It provides some extra watts per tube too. Bias adjustments are required. These valves are huge...the spring retainer clips should be removed from the base of the socket. Check for clearance on the chassis and in combo's near speakers.

From GT:

New and exclusive GT design. An exact copy of legendary Gold Lion "valve" from the Eric Clapton "Blues Breaker" Marshall combo. Considered by many (including us!) to be the ultimate tube for guitar amps. Big fat bottom, crisp highs, very warm and a springboard response that make playing fun again! Highly recommended for Fender type amps.

Thanks Tommy! I've heard great things about those before. Next time I retube, I'll check them out.

Wes