You will be looking for MuMetal

Not cheap

http://www.zetatalk.com/info/tinfo22p.htm

http://www.magnetic-shield.com/

http://www.mushield.com/

http://www.lessemf.com/mag-shld.html

Best of luck!

-TOM-

Mu metal isn't necessary. Steel will work.

You can wrap a few layers of galvanized steel flashing around the top, bottom and sides of the cabinet. Just coil it around and don't make the corners too sharp. Bring it all the way to the front edge of the cabinet. If the flashing extends beyond the rear edge, that's good. This will give better shielding. You can put a thin layer of high density foam around the cabinet first, then construction glue between the metal layers to cut down vibrations.

If you're more adventurous, you could add "bucking" magnets to the back of the speaker drivers. However, this can somewhat alter the driver parameters, so you could potentially change the sound.

Thomas

Barefoot Sound wrote: Mu metal isn't necessary. Steel will work.

You can wrap a few layers of galvanized steel flashing around the top, bottom and sides of the cabinet. Just coil it around and don't make the corners too sharp. Bring it all the way to the front edge of the cabinet. If the flashing extends beyond the rear edge, that's good. This will give better shielding. You can put a thin layer of high density foam around the cabinet first, then construction glue between the metal layers to cut down vibrations.

If you're more adventurous, you could add "bucking" magnets to the back of the speaker drivers. However, this can somewhat alter the driver parameters, so you could potentially change the sound.

Thomas

Depending on the steel you could just as easily magnetize it which would be a lot worse since it is a lot bigger surface area. If you want to do it correctly use mumetal.

-TOM-

Been there done that.....!

Just a thought,

think the " copper " boat paint for hull would work?

i here some guitarists paint inside of hte pickup cavity to help reduce noise ?

wunder if this would work as a sheild,,,?

and i dont suggest painting the monitor lol but maybe a box around it,,

Sanity Inn

Sanity,

No, copper won't work for a static field from a permanent magnet. You need a "magnetically conductive" material to redirect the field - like iron, steel, or some of the more exotic material.

However, electrical conductors do help with fluctuating magnetic fields. With fluctuating fields, there's always an accompanying perpendicular electric field component. It's just the nature of electromagnetism. The conductor will shield the electric field component and, therefore, the magnetic component can't propagate either. Power transformers (60Hz oscillation) will often have copper foil shields wrapped around them to reduce their emissions.

Thomas

You could save yourself time (and money from the sound of some of these solutions) buy getting a flatscreen. Bingo, problem solved.

Also, now you wont have the problem of interference with electric guitars. It took me forever to find out that the noise my Fender bass made was really interference from my CRT.

Thanks Barefoot, and noit ...

Yes my ATC monitors are not sheilded either, and you should see the size of the magnets in these puppies,,,

I plan on two LCD myself, but when budget permits,,,

although my monitors are 6 feet apart,,, not messing with my monitor,,

my hummble set up, shows the size of magnet on ATC SCM-20's

http://

Sanity Inn

hey!!

Noit, regarding the noise to pickups and CRT's,,,, I guess this includes pick ups on accoustic guitars?

is it because the CRT is plugged into same sytem or is it a proximity thing ?/

i usually record about 6 ' away from monitor ...

Thanks again
Sanity Inn

It's proximity. When I had a CRT I would turn it off before recording anything with a pickup. Might be a good idea for microphones too. I'm not sure.

Interesting fact..

A 17" CRT has a viewable screen size of 15"
A 17" TFT has a viewable screen size of 17"

Therefor to buy the equivilent TFT to your 17" CRT monitor you only need to buy a

15" TFT!!! WAHOO!!

:)