First off, I'd ask exactly what kind of changes you want to make to your speakers. Low end boost? Notching a peak?

Fixing monitors electrically can work, but only if you have a phase invariant EQ and your speakers have nothing but frequency response anomolies.

In the real world, speakers have problems related to phase, breakup, complex impedence effects , mechaincal factors, leading to a host of things that cannot be compensated for by simple notching them out. A resonance from a less than well crafted box can't be fixed with an EQ setting, only with a hammer. A speaker with a crossover that's too low or too high will have problems based on the physical nature of the transducers, and that can be pretty hard to change with a phase shifter (graphic EQ). Fixing a null in the response, especially down low, can be deadly. Sometimes a driver just doesn't want to do something your way, and forcing it to can cause more problems than it solves.

If you're going to be messing with active monitors, things get even more sticky because you're adding EQ to a system that's already been optimized, and may very well be setting it up to fail (too much boost...not enough power...clipping...).

Finally, are you trying to correct for things which you can't correct for? Room effects are a biggie.

If you can't reasonably account for most of what I've mentioned I'd save the money you were going to spend on that stereo EQ and put it toward a nice pair of speakers instead. If you feel up to it, find yourself a pair or IRP TEQs and have at it.

my $0.02

-dave

Originally posted by dpaton:

In the real world, speakers have problems related to phase, breakup, complex impedence effects , mechaincal factors, leading to a host of things that cannot be compensated for by simple notching them out. A resonance from a less than well crafted box can't be fixed with an EQ setting, only with a hammer. A speaker with a crossover that's too low or too high will have problems based on the physical nature of the transducers, and that can be pretty hard to change with a phase shifter (graphic EQ). Fixing a null in the response, especially down low, can be deadly. Sometimes a driver just doesn't want to do something your way, and forcing it to can cause more problems than it solves.

-dave

I can agree with all that for sure. I have not heard of EQ use for the speaker inabilities itself, other then components in the internal xover, all ready set to reproduce within the limits of the speaker design as a whole. I have heard of people using an EQ for some mild response curves of a room, but very small amounts, perhaps less then .5db over a range of frequency.
--Rick, pickier then ever, old guy.

Very good answer, I am very impressed, I will start seeing what my budget will allow.
On that point, there has got to be a budget/quality breskpoint, what would you say that is? Is it worth buying a pair of powered monitors for $99 like those little Rolands, or would I be better off waiting till I can afford $900 passive monitors, or is there nothing worth getting under $500?

I know they're probably not hip or new...but auratones are really good if your talking budget. They only have one speaker so they arte inherrently more accurate than any two component speaker (in the midrange...the most imortant area i.m.o.) because there's no cross over distortion. Cuople that with a consumer set with a subwoofer (to check the lows that are a prerequisite in todays productions) and you'll a a set up that you should be able to get some happy balances out of. I know this probably won't impress anybody with volume...so may be jsut one more set for that.

The active version of the Event monitors shouldn't break the bank, and would probably be a huge improvement over your currrent setup.

Yeah, I remember when I had the Event 20/20 BAS active speakers, I was pretty happy with them for the price, I'd definately suggest those if they sound good to you.

Originally posted by teddancin:
Yeah, I remember when I had the Event 20/20 BAS active speakers, I was pretty happy with them for the price, I'd definately suggest those if they sound good to you.

I have a friend that has the passive 20/20's..and they work for him.

DO NOT buy Event 20/20 BAS.
Yoy will NEVER be able to get a mix that translates well into other systems!!!!
The are bass-shy and very bright in the upper-midrange.
I now use a pair of passive Tannoy System 800`s, and my mixes translates very well.

Amund

http://www.pdstudio.no

Originally posted by plexi:
DO NOT buy Event 20/20 BAS.
Yoy will NEVER be able to get a mix that translates well into other systems!!!!
The are bass-shy and very bright in the upper-midrange.
I now use a pair of passive Tannoy System 800`s, and my mixes translates very well.

Amund

http://www.pdstudio.no

Tannoy makes excelleant speakers. My absolute favorites being the 'old' 10' golds with the Mastering L:Ab cross-overs. The 20/20 aren't exactly my cup of tea...but as I said, I know some one who uses them and there stuff translates quite nicely. Being bass-shy and very bright in the upper-midrange" could be an asset if your working an a dead little bedroom with a lot of lo end build up...who knows. Differrent strokes for differrent folks.

1. What's you budget and
what monitors are available within that budget.
2. Can you afford a sub. I highly reccomend a sub if possible because todays music has so much more low end imformatiosn than the days of Vynil(due to limitations in that medium). There are few inexpensive monitors (if any ) that can reproduce down around 50hz...there for the sub option. That would take alot of work from the "satalites".

3. See if you can't put down a deposite on a couple of systems, or one at a time. Mix the same song, fast ballnces to see how the ballnce translates out of your envoirment (too much bass, not enough, ect).
4. Buy that system.