Hello All,
Great forum and thanks for all the good info!
For the past year I've been in the process of constructing a new studio north of Atlanta. I must say, it has been a massive undertaking. MASSIVE!
I'm finally in the home stretch of the build… the interior studio Windows and Doors.
I've been using Rod's book as my guide through the majority of the build so I have to give a GIGANTIC thanks to him for sharing his experience with the rest of us. So, Rod, if you're reading, Thank You! (your book should cost more ;) )
My questions are in the door frame construction. I have 6 openings that I have to build doors for. My plan is to follow Rod's super door design. I've hit two snags trying to prep for building the doors. In his book, there is a plan for constructing the door in a jamb that was a double stud frame assembly with x amount of drywall. That is the wall assembly I used for four out of the six doors. The other two are constructed as shown in the picture below, or as follows….from leaf surface to leaf surface...
2 layers of 5/8" drywall>1 layer 5/8"OSB
>Stud>
2"Air Space
Accommodating for the extra depth of the jamb caused by adding the hat channel has been puzzling. The hat channel w/clips adds 1 5/8" to the door's inset. I can't figure out the best way to mount the doors to the frame so that the weight is supported by the frame and still be able to swing properly because the door needs to be mounted to the side that has the hat channel and swinging in, which leaves me with a 3 3/4" inset. The rough opening of the jamb is 38" wide. My plan is to attach a piece of 3/4" ply to the frame that will cover the depth of the jamb and gap between the frame and the layers on hat channel. Then attaching a 5/4" board through the ply into the frames and mounting a 34" door through the 5/4 board.
Will this work?
The door is located about 8" from the adjacent wall that it swings toward so it can't actually swing much further than 90 degrees. I think that it will have the clearance to swing freely with a little help from a door closer and a floor stop to keep it from swinging past the radius where it will come in contact with the corner of the extended jamb.
Does anyone out there have a drawing of a door frame with walls constructed in this configuration or any advice on how to best approach this?
Thanks!
jason
Attached files 
Comments
I assume you think I'm throwing money away because I used hat ch
I assume you think I'm throwing money away because I used hat channel on one side of a double frame construction. Actually the entire room isn't a full double frame construction. One of the wall frames is actually the exterior frame of the building and the ceiling frame in that area is the roof trusses. There wasn't enough space to do a full room within a room in this area which is why I chose to use hat channel. Ant help you'd offer with the frame is much appreciated.
A double framed wall assembly is a fully decoupled wall assembly
A double framed wall assembly is a fully decoupled wall assembly, so adding track and clips does not make it more decoupled, it just adds additional cost. At this time I guess you had to do what you had to do so, it aint my money right?
As for your jambs, you can use lumber that goes from face of sheetrock on the outside of the exterior jamb to the outer most sheetrock of the interior jamb and this will solve the concern. The typical procedure when building a weight intensive door is to frame it up to receive 2X material. You could, if you framed the R.O. in this manner, use 2X on the one side and 2X on the otherside with the track and clips, but you would have to glue and screw the jamb into the pack.
One of the things that often goes unmentioned is that due to the weight, the packs are always doubled at the door areas. Yours do not seem to be doubled and this could be an issue.
You built a three leaf so that has to be corrected first.
You built a three leaf so that has to be corrected first.