Can someone give me a basic rundown on how XLR Wall Plates are installed and connected to each other?
Thank you,
Rob
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Interesting topic, so I thought I would ask something along the
Interesting topic, so I thought I would ask something along the lines ... forgive me if it's a no brainer.
I was once told some cables can't and shouldn't be ran through/in walls. What sort of protection is recommended to avoid fires when it comes to putting in wall plates? Or is it not an issue because it's such a low signal?
Fires? There are wall plates for just about any connector that's
Fires? There are wall plates for just about any connector that's out there. RJ11, RJ45, VGA, USB, HDMI, S-Video, BNC, RCA, Schuko 220V, speakon etc.
I think what is most important to make sure that there is no "naked" cabling to avoid shortcuts. You can accomplish this by using shrink tubes and the like. I'd use as stiff a cable as I can get because once in its place it won't move anymore.
Fire hazard is practically non existent in signal cables. It is only power cables that I'd worry about, though how many power cables run through the walls of your home without starting a fire?
There might be outer jackets that are not fire resistant.
Lets take this a step further. I'm currently constructing a new
Lets take this a step further. I'm currently constructing a new studio space. It's a modest 13.5 x 30 feet. I plan on making one end of the studio into 3 closets for recording guitars and vocals. It would be nice to hard wire XLR outlets into each closet. If I were to want to do this, what kind of cable/wire would I want to run for the initial rough-in stage of construction. Meaning, I'd like to run all the wire now and then, when it's time to trim-out everything, I could solder or connect my own outlets onto them. Thanks,
Eric
Methinks you may be trying to make this too hard? It shouldn't b
Methinks you may be trying to make this too hard? It shouldn't be at all difficult. Look at the lonk below to get an idea of what is available. (There are some with more connection spaces, but this page shows a good overall selection):
http://www.churchaudiosupply.com/CASwallplates.html
As far as roughing in, you shouldn't need to rough in these. Electrical, and anything that needs to be run around the room, yes. Straight-through wall plates...no need. Though, you could if you wanted, and it may be easier if you want to add some extra minor framing to attach a large plate(s) and box(es) for strength. You just have to know where to avoid electrical lines. Keep them a few feet away from those, if possible.
Perhaps just locate them at the point closest to the mixer/DAW? Or, maybe toward a side wall of that location so you don't have cable running straight across the middle of the floor? A few extra feet won't matter.
You're going to have to consider how many connections you want, of what type. You'll probably want mainly female on the inside, and male on the ouside. Would you ever want to run anything the other way INTO one of the rooms? Do the opposite on a couple, possibly?
Would you ever want to run an amp head from the "control room" to a speaker cab in one of the other rooms? Install another plate with one or two high-quality 1/4" jacks, away from the signal plate? Stick a cab and a mic or two in there, and control it from your "control room"?
Those plates have to mount on something solid. Usually, a electrical box, which should be mounted solid, or even possibly semi-solid, with some kind of thin rubber washers or grommets, and possibly even a gasket around the plate. (Anything to keep down possible rattling will help. You can take it as far as you wish).
If the wall is too thin to mount the boxes back-to-back, you may have to stagger them a bit. (This is actually where a rough-in job would be most handy, rather than fishing things though blindly). Do all your connections on your bench on one plate, label them, and mount it...leaving enough cable to work with on the other side of the wall. Connect the wires to the corresponding jacks and pins, and mount it. It should not be a big deal having an extra 1/2 foot tucked through the boxes and dangling in the walls...if you can't pack them into the box. And remember, if you pack the slack into one box, if it even fits, if you want to work on the other box for a change or repair, you may have to remove the cover on the packed box first and thread the excess down so you can pull it back out the other side.
You may even want to make sure there is some kind of insulation in the wall to stuff excess into to keep those cables from possibly rattling against either side when you're playing your SVT bass amp. Otherwise, they're rubber...they shouldn't make any noise.
Just use good quality mic (and/or other types) of cable, and do a good job of soldering...or find possible quality solderless connectors?
Just some thoughts.
Kapt.Krunch
IIRC, the fire hazard with cabling inside walls doesn't have to
IIRC, the fire hazard with cabling inside walls doesn't have to with the voltage they contain, but with the flammability of the cable itself. If there is a fire inside of a wall, then the cable can help spread the fire quicker. There are also issues the the smoke from a burning cable. Google on "riser rated cable" and "plenum rated cable" for more information.
RemyRAD wrote: Not quite sure what you are asking? Pin 1 is shi
RemyRAD wrote: Not quite sure what you are asking? Pin 1 is shield/ground. Pin 2 is high. Pin 3 is low.
XLR connectors can be conveniently installed into conventional consumer Edison electrical outlet boxes you find the hardware store. A blank stainless steel front plate that has been punched out for the connector is easily accomplished.
In numerous studios that I have built, I've taken 1/8" thick aluminum plate and had it punched out to accommodate up to 50 XLR connectors. Otherwise, I've also obtained 1U rackmount XLR panels that can accommodate from 8 to 10 connectors in 19 inches. Many of these are available premade from numerous distributors and manufacturers, such as Guitar Center, Sweetwater, Musicians Friend, B&H and many others.
Can you hear me now? Good.
Ms. Remy Ann David
the 1U rackmount XLR panels i actually i must prefer some, good idea you made it
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[[url=http://[/URL]="http://www.precisep…"]aluminum plate[/]="http://www.precisep…"]aluminum plate[/]
fourone3 wrote: Interesting topic, so I thought I would ask some
fourone3 wrote: Interesting topic, so I thought I would ask something along the lines ... forgive me if it's a no brainer.
I was once told some cables can't and shouldn't be ran through/in walls. What sort of protection is recommended to avoid fires when it comes to putting in wall plates? Or is it not an issue because it's such a low signal?
Two things:
1-IMO wire in the walls in a new construction ought to be in conduit and it should be riser rated. Conduit makes it very easy to reconfigure at future dates without ripping up walls. If you don't like conduit #2 still applies.
2-follow the same basic principals as stage runs. Don't mix AC lines and signal lines (ie. in the same piece of conduit or laying together in the studs)
Not quite sure what you are asking? Pin 1 is shield/ground. Pi
Not quite sure what you are asking? Pin 1 is shield/ground. Pin 2 is high. Pin 3 is low.
XLR connectors can be conveniently installed into conventional consumer Edison electrical outlet boxes you find the hardware store. A blank stainless steel front plate that has been punched out for the connector is easily accomplished.
In numerous studios that I have built, I've taken 1/8" thick aluminum plate and had it punched out to accommodate up to 50 XLR connectors. Otherwise, I've also obtained 1U rackmount XLR panels that can accommodate from 8 to 10 connectors in 19 inches. Many of these are available premade from numerous distributors and manufacturers, such as Guitar Center, Sweetwater, Musicians Friend, B&H and many others.
Can you hear me now? Good.
Ms. Remy Ann David