To connect that microphone to your computer you need several things: a real XLR microphone input with 48V phantom power, adjustable-gain amplification, analog-to-digital conversion and some sort of connection to your computer. Thankfully, there are many affordable boxes that have all these things. In your case, the computer connection should be through USB and not via HDMI or through the 3.5mm soundcard jack.

Start by looking at the [="http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/AudioBoxUSB/"]Presonus Audiobox USB[/]="http://www.sweetwat…"]Presonus Audiobox USB[/], the [[url=http://="http://www.sweetwat…"]Focusrite Scarlett 2i2[/]="http://www.sweetwat…"]Focusrite Scarlett 2i2[/] or possibly the [[url=http://[/URL]="http://www.sweetwat…"]Focusrite iTrack Solo[/]="http://www.sweetwat…"]Focusrite iTrack Solo[/].

Boswell, post: 407253 wrote: To connect that microphone to your computer you need several things: a real XLR microphone input with 48V phantom power, adjustable-gain amplification, analog-to-digital conversion and some sort of connection to your computer. Thankfully, there are many affordable boxes that have all these things. In your case, the computer connection should be through USB and not via HDMI or through the 3.5mm soundcard jack.

Start by looking at the [="http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/AudioBoxUSB/"]Presonus Audiobox USB[/]="http://www.sweetwat…"]Presonus Audiobox USB[/], the [[url=http://="http://www.sweetwat…"]Focusrite Scarlett 2i2[/]="http://www.sweetwat…"]Focusrite Scarlett 2i2[/] or possibly the [[url=http://[/URL]="http://www.sweetwat…"]Focusrite iTrack Solo[/]="http://www.sweetwat…"]Focusrite iTrack Solo[/].

Thanks for the tips but is there any cheaper solutions?

I didn't explicity dwell on it, but I was trying to steer you away from the junk at the bottom end of the market. Down there you tend to find things that can catch you out like bit 16-bit conversion instead of 24-bit, 12V phantom power instead of 48V, and manufacturers beginning with "B".

It's up to you to put a value on the sound quality you want to achieve.

Boswell, post: 407255 wrote: I didn't explicity dwell on it, but I was trying to steer you away from the junk at the bottom end of the market. Down there you tend to find things that can catch you out like bit 16-bit conversion instead of 24-bit, 12V phantom power instead of 48V, and manufacturers beginning with "B".

It's up to you to put a value on the sound quality you want to achieve.

Thanks for the info but whats better usb or 3.5 mm?

I think you misunderstood Boswell's original reply. The 3.5 mm jack is not an option for you as it is A) Not a balanced input and B) Does not provide the phantom power that your microphone needs.

Boswell directed you very well. If you have stumped up for an AT2020 then you need decent quality gear to be able to use it. The recommendations he made are very good and you would be well advised to somehow find the cash for one of those rather than finding a cheap alternative that will either sound poor or not work properly due to inadequate phantom power.

MrEase, post: 407258 wrote: I think you misunderstood Boswell's original reply. The 3.5 mm jack is not an option for you as it is A) Not a balanced input and B) Does not provide the phantom power that your microphone needs.

Boswell directed you very well. If you have stumped up for an AT2020 then you need decent quality gear to be able to use it. The recommendations he made are very good and you would be well advised to somehow find the cash for one of those rather than finding a cheap alternative that will either sound poor or not work properly due to inadequate phantom power.

No no I understand i mean whats better for the mixer box to output to usb or 3.5mm and what about blue icicle preamps are they any good?

Killpot, post: 407259 wrote: No no I understand i mean whats better for the mixer box to output to usb or 3.5mm and what about blue icicle preamps are they any good?

The 3.5mm input would be an unreliable option physically and questionable at best sonically. Get a USB interface designed for what you're doing.

The Icicle is for things like podcasting where you don't need to monitor anything coming from the computer. It might be okay for what you're doing but it is limited. It probably won't work with your mixer too well if at all.

The Blue Icicle is one of those units that has only a 16-bit converter and not 24-bit, and it has no output capability. That said, it's reasonable value for what it provides. If you take care how you use it, your Youtube viewers may not notice the shortcomings.

For this sort of job, you need an external USB interface unit. Don't even think about connecting to the 3.5mm jack and the soundcard in your computer.

The AT2020 is a great mic for the price. I have one of them myself. You would do yourself a favour to stick with it. I don't know of any other mics for that price that are as versatile, durable and sound as good.

Do you realize there is a USB version of the AT2020? It sounds like your best option would be to try and exchange your mic for the USB version. It has the 3 things Boswell mentioned (preamp, digital conversion and phantom power) built in to it, so all you have to do is connect the mic to your computer with a USB cable and you're ready to go.

Pax Caritas et lol,
-Clark

here I found a way to do wireless through a printer port !!
(y)

Seriously, I don't know why people think they can use adapters for everything.
Your 2020 needs a preamp and Fantom Power.
Preamp : it's simple, the amount of electricity the mic can produce by itself is close to none and very far from recording level.
Recording level is kind of a standard equal to the output of a CD Player. So the preamp amplify the signal so it can be recorded.
Fantom power is 48v needed by the MIC to work, you can't get around it. As you Microwave needs 120volts to work.
No adapter will do all this !!

Conclusion, buy an audio interface that has a preamp and power for your mic.
If your not into it, return it and buy a USB MIC.