This is a very typical scenario...no matter what type of pickups you have infront or too close to a radio antannae or computer monitor you will pick up RF from electronics.
You moved the Bass in a certain direction and you noticed it go away..there's your solution right there..try playing a few feet away from the computer. As far as the Buzz goes..yes a DI with a ground switch can take care of that buzz..also are you just going direct into the M-Audio/Delta card? Usually a Bass will need to go thru a DI to get a proper signal.
Opus

I know this is an older post but thought i'd throw my 4 cents in....ahhhh...leo....the split single coil bass pick-up....also known as the VOICE-OF-GAWD....mine is a very early 60's p and you can literally shout through its pick-up...get a nice di...active is good or the countryman type 85 passive....and stay the hell away from the screen!!

Thanks for the replies. I'll have to try some more after I get a DI, but before I posted this topic I had taken my bass into the hallway closed the door and still had the noises. At this time I can't tell how much of the noise was from the pickups and how much was from the screen. I guess some sort of power conditioning wouldn't hurt either.

Bluemoon

You may want to take a look at one of the threads in my forum...
(Dead Link Removed)
The mods mentioned are beneficial in many ways. If you are having this problem while recording, chances-are that you'll have similar probs using the bass for live performance. The kewl thing about doing these mods for your axe is that it will still sound the same, without most of the interference probs. Also, you're lucky, because P-Basses are one of the easiest axe to do all of the modifications on!
If you should decide that you want to do it, let me know. If you need help once you get into it, just give me a shout. You can email me at synergetekMac.com .
Good luck, bro...

SOS, regarding your guit mods, have you tried using twisted pairs as opposed to co-axial cable. If so how do they compare for noise reduction?

Cavepainter,
The whole point of the total modification is shielding to prevent outside electrical interference from entering your signal chain at the sound source. Any shortcuts or omissions will only decrease it's effectiveness. The reason for using shielded cabling inside the guitar is the same reason you use a shielded guitar cable between your guitar and amp. The outer (ground) wire surrounds the inner (hot) wire to reject interference. Also, like a guitar cable, the better the quality of the shielded cable that you use inside the guitar, the better your results will be. The problem there is that, generally, the higher quality shielded cabling tends to be relatively thick, and in a lot of guitars there are space constraints. A typical example of this is the hole that passes between the control cavity and the jack cavity on a Strat ... it's very narrow, and it's VERY difficult to enlarge it. You can't get a drill in there. Also, you may not want to start drilling or chiselling the wood on your '59 Strat ... know what I mean? So, you must find a more narrow shielded cable for that part of the mod. That particular stretch of wiring is very important to change to shielded cable because it passes between the two shielded cavities, so it's very vulnerable. Personally, for my own Strats, I dug those holes out with a small chisel to accomodate a thick shielded cable.
If you are going to undertake a "surgery" like this on your axe, then don't take any chances or shortcuts unless it is absolutely necessary or unavoidable. Each part of the mod is for a specific purpose to eliminate all of the places where outside electrical interference can enter your signal. While you have the axe "under the knife", do everything that you can to achieve success. Would a surgeon cut in to his patient, remove MOST of the cancer, then say, "That's good enough."?
I've taken the time to give all of you the information that you'll need to "quiet" your axe like guitar techs do for some of the top pros, and then some. Some of the parts of this mod were applied in the axes of Jimi Hendrix, Stevie Ray Vaughn, Steve Morse, Joe Perry, etc etc etc. There are several sites on the internet and several books that describe some of these procedures, but I've never seen anyone put together the COMPLETE modification that I've given you. There may be parts of this procedure that, for one reason or another, must be skipped or done in less-than-optimum fashion, due to individual problems you face inside of some guitars, but I've given you the optimum mod.
The results of this mod are beneficial in every situation...in the studio, on the stage, or just jammin in your buddy's garage. There are electrical interference and grounding problems anywhere you go.
Again...anyone who reads this that wants to do it, feel free to contact me if you have any questions or problems at ...
synergetekMac.com .
If needed, we can even arrange a time to meet on MSN Messenger or Yahoo Messenger to walk you through any particular difficulties.