Why are you using the Aux 1 for mains instead of the Stereo L/R outputs?

Are you using a snake? Are the amps on-stage, by the speakers?

I'm almost afraid to ask why you are using Aux#1 for the FOH, so I'll ignore that one...LOL!
You take whatever line level output from the mixer that you want to feed the sub with, and run that to the x-over. The x-over then feeds the power amp, and that, of course, feeds the speaker...

Mixer> x-over>power amp>speaker.
Really rudimentary stuff here.

I was not afraid to ask... :-)

Hi BJ, we meet again!

This would be the block diagram for what I know you have. Stick with balanced cables everywhere if possible. Using unbalanced audio cables is just asking for problems.

The recommended crossover point for those subs is 90Hz. I wouldn't be afraid to see if you like the way they sound with the rest of the system at 100Hz, but not much higher.

If you're running in mono do something like this.

Did you decide if you're bridging the amps? or running them in stereo (dual mono)?

When you know how you're utilizing your amps, you'll know if you need to make more speaker connections or more crossover connections.

Rock on!

I edited my first post, I meant to say I run the MONITORS through Aux 1.

For the sub, I am running bridged mono 8ohm on my Crown 202. On my Crown 802 I am running the mains on one channel @ 4ohms, and 2 monitors on the other channel @ 4ohms.

I'm not currently running a snake, my current routing is this:
Mixer (XLR) -> Amp (XLR) -> Mains
Mixer (Aux 1 1/4") -> Amp (XLR) -> Monitors

It looks like I'm going to have to get some new cables, seeing as how the crossover is all 1/4".

Should I be running the crossover in stereo or mono?

I know this sounds like a dumb question, but I have never used a sub or a crossover before. Thanks for the help so far!

A snake is simply a long pile of cables - but if you use one, you don't put any amplifier outputs along it. Unless you like melting things.

I very much doubt a single sub is going to be stereo ;) so I would run the gear mono especially since you're also running your speakers in bridged mode.

FWIW, I've never used a crossover before. I just hang around here soaking up other people's advice and making it sound like my own.

BJ,

Here's the thing...

THING1
All your mains are running from one channel of the XLS802, and you're bridging the sub-amp.
Therefore, you are running your system in mono, which is fine.

THING2
The crossover probably has a switch that might say something like - "Stereo 2-way or Mono 3-way".
Don't let the terminology fool you. Even though you're running your system in mono, set the crossover switch to STEREO 2-way, because you just want to add ONE crossover point - {which should be around 90Hz for that sub}.
You will just be using ONE side of the stereo crossover with this set-up. The other side will do nothing unless or until you get geared up for stereo or (God help us all) try tri-amping.

THING3
You may have to study the frequency setting controls too, some cheap crossovers have a x10 switch to multiply the number on the dial by 10. Make sure you're crossingover at 90Hz and not 900Hz. That would sound like crap.

I've edited last night's graphic a little bit to be more specific to your set-up. I haven't heard you mention an EQ yet in any of your other posts. If you put an EQ inline between the mixer and crossover / amps - you may need to adjust the cable recommendations. Making sure they are the right type and gender. A lot of EQs have XLR and 1/4" TRS ins and outs, which is convenient - you can come in one type and go out the other and still stay balanced.

That's all the THINGS I can think of that might trip you up. Study the diagram and see if it makes sense. And if you don't have a dual 31-band graphic EQ, that's the next thing you should be saving up for. On that topic, my recommendation would be, don't buy the first EQ you can afford - $100 EQs are usually next to useless in my opinion.

Thank you sir. I think I have a good idea of it now. All of my stuff is kept at a local venue, so when I go tonight I will see if I can put the pieces of my puzzle together. I think I will have to end up getting different cables though. I will report back tomorrow with what I determine tonight :)

As for the Stereo 2-way or Mono 3-way thing, it looks to me like it is just determined by how you hook it up. There is no switch to do so.

As for the EQ, no, I dont have one yet. You think thats a good next purchase huh? Ive been eying 2 different ones....ART 355 and the DBX 231, both dual 31ch.

Looks like I'm going to have to order 4 cables before I can get everything hooked up.

Welp, I got it all hooked up. I have the crossover point at the very lowest setting which is 100hz which is alright I suppose. It weird though, thats the lowest I can set it, and theres STILL the x10 button! Why would anyone want to crossover so high?!

What do you think about the DBX and ART EQ's I mentioned? I plan on running one channel on the mains and the other on the monitors.

Because a crossover isn't used JUST for cutting sub signals out - it's also used to split signals in the midrange (usually around 2.5K) for woofer/tweeters - true high end setups use separate amp channels for these.

I can't testify about the ART, but regarding the dbx I'd save up until you can get into dbx's 12 series. I think the improved performance of the 1231 would be worth the wait.

Maybe someone else has a recommendation on a good dual-31 for under $300. I can't think of any.

BJ,

Check with MadMax, he has a used dbx 2231 listed on his equipment for sale list. I don't know if it's up to date, but ask him - he's around here somewhere. There's an email link and list of gear here.

http://www.dmmobile.com/?page_id=25

Alrighty, Thanks!

dvdhawk wrote:
Maybe someone else has a recommendation on a good dual-31 for under $300. I can't think of any.

You might get a Driverack PA for that money, or close to it. That would provide a digital cross-over plus limiters, as well as parametric and graphic EQs... not the same not having physical sliders, but I would be deeply suspicious of any analog EQs at that price point.

even this wouldn't be ideal come to think of it, as I don't think you can configure the left and right channels differently. ie: you would only be able to use the driverack for mains, not monitors.

IIRs wrote: [quote=dvdhawk]
Maybe someone else has a recommendation on a good dual-31 for under $300. I can't think of any.

You might get a Driverack PA for that money, or close to it. That would provide a digital cross-over plus limiters, as well as parametric and graphic EQs... not the same not having physical sliders, but I would be deeply suspicious of any analog EQs at that price point.

even this wouldn't be ideal come to think of it, as I don't think you can configure the left and right channels differently. ie: you would only be able to use the driverack for mains, not monitors.
I was actually looking into that piece not long ago, but if thats the case (not able to run the monitors), then I think I will have to look past it...

Of the DriveRack products the PA would be the best suited to your set-ups, if you can find one for $300, go for it. They usually go for $499 new.

If you enjoy pink noise, you can get the RTA mic and Auto-EQ to get the room flattened within a minute or so.

The dbx 2231 is a very smooth and very decent EQ with a typical street price of $500 new. It's no Klark or BSS, but it's way above average even in the $500 range.

I wouldn't have any reservations if MadMax said it was in good shape. He's got a lot of A-list gear and I don't think he'd steer you wrong.