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I've never really liked the way that my combo looked on top of my cab, so last week I decided to do something about it! I designed the enclosure on paper and took it to the local Builder Mart. They didn't have the right cutting equipment and so I could only get in the ballpark of my intended measurements unfortunately. It wasn't easy, but a good artist uses what he has in front of him. Look at the pics, I only have before and afters, no progression pics unfortunately.

And here is a little tribute to TGP. It sounds SOO much better now! :redface:

Comments

dvdhawk Sat, 06/19/2010 - 11:58

Looks good!

Did you use any kind of shielding inside the top piece?

If there's a v.2 maybe you could extend the front to back dimensions and inch or two to protect the knobs and rear connections?

Keep up the good work! I'm loving what I learned about professional painting and finishing from the bossman in the adjoining thread.

Guitarfreak Sun, 06/20/2010 - 05:07

rfahey86, post: 350497 wrote: Props to you, That looks really awesome. You could just add a 1/4" speaker jack to the old speaker so you can use the Marshall speaker if you ever feel the need to.

Thanks! About the stock speaker, NO THANKS! haha, I did a side by side comparing the two and the stock speaker just isn't for me. It was scooped and had no mid presence. I'm a mids and bottom kind of guy.

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@jg, yes. If you look closely at the picture you can see a motion blur where he was headbanging as I took the picture. He was actually just leaving his lair, where shortly before, he performed ritualistic sacrifice on a mouse and imbibed of its blood for nourishment. He's a pretty cool cat!

Thanks Rod and DVD!

@DH - I hadn't even thought of shielding it. Do you think that I should? Also, while I am here, the amp chassis has an air outlet and fan at the back plate which is visible in the picture. I however did not cut any holes for an inlet. Should I do this, and how? I certainly am capable of drilling some holes and/or chopping some wood, but on the other hand I want it to look nice too.

dvdhawk Sun, 06/20/2010 - 11:31

Guitarfreak, post: 350531 wrote: I hadn't even thought of shielding it. Do you think that I should? Also, while I am here, the amp chassis has an air outlet and fan at the back plate which is visible in the picture. I however did not cut any holes for an inlet. Should I do this, and how? I certainly am capable of drilling some holes and/or chopping some wood, but on the other hand I want it to look nice too.

I'm not familiar with that particular Marshall amp. Does the amp chassis have a metal top already on it? If it does, you probably do not need any additional shielding. If it isn't a six sided metal box, these are the things you should consider:

If the now defunct combo cabinet has a thin sheet of metal or screen stapled inside the top, you should shield your box.
If your guitar hums more now when it's near the Marshall than it did in combo form, you should shield your box.
If your amp is now picking up Mexican radio, you should shield your box.
If your idea of a fancy dinner includes the word "Helper", you might be a redneck.
If you plan on taking this rig out into the world where you might really need some more immunity from radio waves, you should shield your box.

The air outlet won't do much good if there's nowhere for air to get in. Without reasonable ventilation it will run hotter. The excess heat will shorten the life of the pre-amp tube, but worse yet it will change tone as it heats up (more distorted). So if you're recording something it will gradually morph into a more distorted sound without you touching the knobs. I had to build a fan into the Mesa combo I used to use live to prevent that from happening.

Where did the air enter in its original cabinet, through the bottom?

Guitarfreak Sun, 06/20/2010 - 13:44

dvdhawk, post: 350543 wrote: The air outlet won't do much good if there's nowhere for air to get in. Without reasonable ventilation it will run hotter. The excess heat will shorten the life of the pre-amp tube, but worse yet it will change tone as it heats up (more distorted). So if you're recording something it will gradually morph into a more distorted sound without you touching the knobs. I had to build a fan into the Mesa combo I used to use live to prevent that from happening.

Where did the air enter in its original cabinet, through the bottom?

The original enclosure did not have a metal roof, just wood/tolex. The chassis is more or less three sided with wood now covering the other three sides.

The air came in from the top of the enclosure through a plastic vent. I actually had the idea to drill a hole through the chassis instead of ruining the look of the wood encasement. Of course I would drill with the chassis removed so that I don't damage any components and make sure to make a big enough hole in maybe more than one location. The air can enter underneath the chassis because I left an inch or so underneath, not sure if this is visible in the pictures or not. Does that sound reasonable?

Guitarfreak Mon, 06/21/2010 - 19:04

Guitarfreak, post: 350553 wrote: The original enclosure did not have a metal roof, just wood/tolex. The chassis is more or less three sided with wood now covering the other three sides.

The air came in from the top of the enclosure through a plastic vent. I actually had the idea to drill a hole through the chassis instead of ruining the look of the wood encasement. Of course I would drill with the chassis removed so that I don't damage any components and make sure to make a big enough hole in maybe more than one location. The air can enter underneath the chassis because I left an inch or so underneath, not sure if this is visible in the pictures or not. Does that sound reasonable?

Anybody have any input on this? The amp currently gets rather hot when running for over a half hour or so, so if it is an advisable idea I would appreciate being able to do it relatively soon. Thanks!

Guitarfreak Fri, 06/25/2010 - 19:53

dvdhawk, post: 350603 wrote: Is there any way to put a couple thin spacers or washers just above the faceplate to hold it down from the top of cabinet? A 16-inch long gap just 1/16" high = 1 square inch for air to enter. 16" x 1/8" = 2 square inches and so on.

Took me a while to a. get some time and b. spraypaint the washers, but I finally installed them today. Got a nice 1/8" of clearance front and back over a span of 19 3/4" front and back. Right now I still somehow feel the need to ventilate the bottom of the chassis as well. Unless I can be so convinced that it does not need such a thing.

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