The dbx driverack is the key. That is your cross over unit and has the capability of biamping or triamping. I download the manual on that to start.

gotta agree with bob... console->dbx->multi out to amps->speakers.... the dbx is a good unit very versatile... but the learning curve could kill ya if ya dont have a manual...

if I didn't have the dbx, I guess I would use a traditional crossover??

yes and EQ's and compressors...etc you see that dbx does all the rest for you...

if I didn't have the dbx, I guess I would use a traditional crossover??

Depending upon the RH boxes, a traditional crossover may not work at all. Traditional as in analog crossover. There is no reason to use a traditional crossover...ever.

does he mean traditional active????

i guess i'm not sore how a crossover works then as i really didn't get the last couple of posts

a cross over simply sees to it that the appropriate freqs get to the individual drivers... there are basicly 2 ways to do this a passive device like what you find in stereo speakers/passive monitors/full range cabs... it comes after the amps and then devides the frqs... or an active crossover that comes before the amps (requires an amp for each box) for technical reasons i wont get into here and now the active is they wayto go if at all possible...

the club had these speakers (same brand same style)

http://www.superchelou.info/esx/FRS152B.JPG

can you separate mids and highs, then amp them and bring them into the speakers via 1 soca cable?

(to me this sounds like a dumb question)

i ask because the horns were not responding at all with our songle power amp. (may not be related to problem)

got a pick of the back too??? those look fairly old...last time i looked at RH's productline they were off doing some interesting stuff with coentrant drivers etc... those look fairly traditional... i would suggest pulling the back plate off of one to see how they are wired... if there's a passive crossover present... or if they have for instance 2 inputs one leaading to that horn and the other to those woofers... that would be optimum... and would allow for an active crossover... i suspect thats the way they were wired sisnce they were using that dbx unit right???

As I remember it, the dbx Driverack (which is an active crossover with other features (such as eq) added on) has outputs for subs, mids and highs. You would amp these separately and then run separate speaker cables for each. Since the horns weren't responding, I'd guess that they have a separate input in the back of the RH unit.

Maybe his predecessor made a "high level adjustment" to the RH's HF sections before leaving his/her employment at his establishment... :lol:
Just to clarify what has already been stated, look on the rear of the RH boxes (and these have got to be a good 10+ years old) and see if there are :
A) Seperately marked "Hi" and "Lo" inputs and/or Speakon connectors. The Speakons permit 1 easy, quick connection to the box, but actually have seperate circuits feeding the LF and HF sections of the box. There should be a "legend" on the backplate indicating which portions of the connector are directed to the LF and which to the HF. If you get this wrong at the amp end, you will have a real problem at the speaker end. Do you like the smell of burnt voice coils in the morning?
B) On the few RH boxes I have had the pleasure of dealing with (i.e., another JBL wannabe), there were stepped rotary level controls for the HF section. This is usually (not always, though) indicative of having a passive crossover in the box. Those seperate HF and LF inputs are the way to bypass this.
BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING ELSE GET A BOOK ON THIS SUBJECT AND READ UP!!!!!!!!! There are very good books on live sound, many from the MIX Bookshelf (Google that). Go to the Live Church section. Books written for this demographic assume that you are ignorant on the subject. No offense, but from the questions you've asked, you are. This how you learn not to fry shit. Which is never good, even when you use a nice extra virgin olive oil...