First, are you sure the new fuses are the same value and kind of the originals ?
Second, you should know that a slow blow may not seem blown to the eye, did you try to test them with a voltimeter ?
Third, it is possible that the internal powersupply of the monitors have been damage and must be checked by an electronic technician.

Hi PC,thanks for the input.. contacted the company and they told me what fuses to get.. then looked at the back of the speaker and the fuse I was sent was exactly like the originals T1AL... don't have a volt meter so couldn't test them that is why I decided to buy new ones... why the new ones blow and can see it black in the fuse and the old ones weren't discoloured seemed odd... regarding the internal power supply that might be gone and will have to have it looked at but why did power come on for 2 seconds if the PS has gone?

What make/model are these monitors?

Samson Resolv65a they were stand in for my absolute 4s which has a tweeter problem Im having fixed

OK, this depends on how much fault finding you want to do. Those Resolv65a monitors are a bit unusual in having a standard mains transformer feeding a pair of bridge rectifiers for the +/-18V and +/-32V power rails, but that means that it's easier to narrow the fault down. If you don't want to do this work yourself, enlist the aid of a competent electronics engineer or an electrician.

You need to unscrew the rear panel and locate the mains transformer. The primary side of the transformer is connected to the mains inlet connector (with fuse) and the two secondaries go via separate plugs and sockets to the two PSU circuits. You can independently disconnect and re-connect these secondary circuits to see whether it's one or both of them that overload the transformer, blowing the mains fuse.

Take great care when working with 240V mains applied. Only make changes with the mains inlet connector fully unplugged.

The 18V secondary circuit goes to its rectifiers via plug CN3 and the 32V circuit via plug CN2. Unplug CN2, CN3 and CON4 (the feed to the pre-amp and crossover board). Apply mains to the transformer (via a working fuse). If the fuse does not blow, the transformer is probably OK. Unplug the mains, plug in CN3 and re-apply mains. If the fuse blows, then at least the +/-18V circuit has a fault. Unplug CN3 and repeat the exercise with CN2. If the fuse is OK with both CN2 and CN3 inserted, try again with CON4 inserted. After this, you will have a better idea where the fault lies. Come back to us with the results.

Boswell, post: 420554, member: 29034 wrote: OK, this depends on how much fault finding you want to do. Those Resolv65a monitors are a bit unusual in having a standard mains transformer feeding a pair of bridge rectifiers for the +/-18V and +/-32V power rails, but that means that it's easier to narrow the fault down. If you don't want to do this work yourself, enlist the aid of a competent electronics engineer or an electrician.

You need to unscrew the rear panel and locate the mains transformer. The primary side of the transformer is connected to the mains inlet connector (with fuse) and the two secondaries go via separate plugs and sockets to the two PSU circuits. You can independently disconnect and re-connect these secondary circuits to see whether it's one or both of them that overload the transformer, blowing the mains fuse.

Take great care when working with 240V mains applied. Only make changes with the mains inlet connector fully unplugged.

The 18V secondary circuit goes to its rectifiers via plug CN3 and the 32V circuit via plug CN2. Unplug CN2, CN3 and CON4 (the feed to the pre-amp and crossover board). Apply mains to the transformer (via a working fuse). If the fuse does not blow, the transformer is probably OK. Unplug the mains, plug in CN3 and re-apply mains. If the fuse blows, then at least the +/-18V circuit has a fault. Unplug CN3 and repeat the exercise with CN2. If the fuse is OK with both CN2 and CN3 inserted, try again with CON4 inserted. After this, you will have a better idea where the fault lies. Come back to us with the results.

Thanks for this input..Im deciding whether I take a look at it myself or take it to a local shop. So you are advising no power lead should be plugged in even if its switched off at the socket? Will let you know how I get on.. Thanks again for the advice.. Frank

I like how Boswell says, "Come back to us with the results", as if the rest of us could contribute anything near his level of knowledge and helpfulness. He has a handful of real peers here, but he must feel like he's trying to train labradoodles trying the educate the rest of us.

Frank, you're in the best possible hands. And I don't mean to offend but if, "Only make changes with the mains inlet connector fully unplugged" isn't clear - I would urge you to "enlist the aid of a competent electronics engineer or an electrician", so you don't do further damage to your speakers, start a fire, or electrocute yourself. [in ascending order of consequence] The 3 seconds it would take to completely disconnect the power seems like a minor inconvenience to avoid unnecessary sparks, shocks, and unpleasant surprises. And even with the amplifier completely unplugged, you have to be aware of what you're touching, and realize there can still be electrical energy stored in the circuitry. (*see sparks, shocks, unpleasant surprises)

Best of luck!

dvdhawk, post: 420574, member: 36047 wrote: I like how Boswell says, "Come back to us with the results", as if the rest of us could contribute anything near his level of knowledge and helpfulness. He has a handful of real peers here, but he must feel like he's trying to train labradoodles trying the educate the rest of us.

Frank, you're in the best possible hands. And I don't mean to offend but if, "Only make changes with the mains inlet connector fully unplugged" isn't clear - I would urge you to "enlist the aid of a competent electronics engineer or an electrician", so you don't do further damage to your speakers, start a fire, or electrocute yourself. [in ascending order of consequence] The 3 seconds it would take to completely disconnect the power seems like a minor inconvenience to avoid unnecessary sparks, shocks, and unpleasant surprises. And even with the amplifier completely unplugged, you have to be aware of what you're touching, and realize there can still be electrical energy stored in the circuitry. (*see sparks, shocks, unpleasant surprises)

Best of luck!

LOL get your point... its my age you know its off to the local shop for me thanks DV

Some Active Powered Monitors Automatically Shut off When There Is No Audio Input. They come on for a couple of seconds when first powered up. Then they shut off with no input. They automatically turn back on when there is input. You might have one of those types? I had a pair like that and they drove me crazy.

Graham Bell Hertz, post: 421583, member: 48616 wrote: Some Active Powered Monitors Automatically Shut off When There Is No Audio Input. They come on for a couple of seconds when first powered up. Then they shut off with no input. They automatically turn back on when there is input. You might have one of those types? I had a pair like that and they drove me crazy.

@Graham Bell Hertz :
Those [[url=http://[/URL]="http://www.samsonte…"]Samson[/]="http://www.samsonte…"]Samson[/] Resolv65a were running fine until a power surge occured and when he replaces the fuses they just blow up again.
After your post, I took time to download and read the manual and there is no auto shut off with those units.