Neutrik - the best and most consistent. Switchcraft good too.

The ONLY reliable non-solder connector I've used would be the Neutrik IDC types, and they have been amazingly reliable - for fifteen years, I've had some on the go, and these mic cables have been really used hard.

However - they take longer to put on properly, and require exactly the right cable. Solder is king for one reason - it's the best for audio cables.

The really important thing with soldering audio connectors is holding them still so you can apply pressure to the joints to heat them up quickly, solder, then remove the heat. Gentle touches with the iron just heat everything up and melt things!

People that do them frequently mount a connector on a panel or piece of wood - then they plug the connector into it - and it holds it properly for soldering.

I use Neutrik for just about everything (XLR, SpeakOn, PowerCon), but I do still prefer Switchcraft for 1/4".

Yep, Neutrik whenever I have a choice for signal connectors and for Speakons. However, for 1/4" plugs on speaker wires, I still have a small stock of unbranded 1950s jack plugs with screw terminals for the cable wires. I prefer them to soldered connections where many Amps have to flow.

dvdhawk, post: 451333, member: 36047 wrote: I use Neutrik for just about everything (XLR, SpeakOn, PowerCon), but I do still prefer Switchcraft for 1/4".

Same here. I like to use jumbo 1/4" connectors for speakers (though 1/4" for speaker connection should just go away and be replaced with Speakon).

Thanks everyone. It seems to be Neutrik is most popular from what I could find on the internet. One caution being barrel size on some xlr neutrik connectors, and that the manufacturing location may differ among the product/price range. Looks like Neutrik will be my 'my first' connector of choice to start this electronics journey.

One question : is one connection more conductive or better fidelity than the other? Like for example RCA vs XLR vs 1/4" Barring any balanced / unbalanced issues.

Are there compromises for the connector type beyond size and general amperage/wattage?

paulears, post: 451332, member: 47782 wrote: Neutrik - the best and most consistent. Switchcraft good too.

The ONLY reliable non-solder connector I've used would be the Neutrik IDC types, and they have been amazingly reliable - for fifteen years, I've had some on the go, and these mic cables have been really used hard.

However - they take longer to put on properly, and require exactly the right cable. Solder is king for one reason - it's the best for audio cables.

The really important thing with soldering audio connectors is holding them still so you can apply pressure to the joints to heat them up quickly, solder, then remove the heat. Gentle touches with the iron just heat everything up and melt things!

People that do them frequently mount a connector on a panel or piece of wood - then they plug the connector into it - and it holds it properly for soldering.

Thanks Paul, great pointers. Good to hear you've had luck with solderless connections with daily use. I won't feel compromised (much) using them in mockups ect.

dvdhawk, post: 451333, member: 36047 wrote: I use Neutrik for just about everything (XLR, SpeakOn, PowerCon), but I do still prefer Switchcraft for 1/4".

Interesting you say that about 1/4". From what I could read there were several 'switchcraft guys' on the forums/threads, who mentioned they used neutrik specifically for 1/4", citing superior strain relief with the neutrik (or lackluster strain relief on the SC)

Any particular reason you use SC for 1/4".? It's possible I got it backwards, I've been fried lately w this remodel.

Boswell, post: 451334, member: 29034 wrote: Yep, Neutrik whenever I have a choice for signal connectors and for Speakons. However, for 1/4" plugs on speaker wires, I still have a small stock of unbranded 1950s jack plugs with screw terminals for the cable wires. I prefer them to soldered connections where many Amps have to flow.

Ok what's your price lol. Just kiddin. I am curious why you prefer them to soldered connections in that case??

bouldersound, post: 451339, member: 38959 wrote: Same here. I like to use jumbo 1/4" connectors for speakers (though 1/4" for speaker connection should just go away and be replaced with Speakon).

Yeah I've bent and ripped out a few 1/4" plugs argh. I'm pretty high on thick speaker wire so I'm a fan of the jumbo connections myself, wherever applicable.

All this said - I did buy, for a project, a big box of chinese XLRs - similar strain relief, and colour coded stripes. I expected complete tat, with the usual cheap plastic insert that melts at the touch of the iron, and nasty bendy pins - but I was actually pleasantly surprised. They were tough, had gold plated pins, hard plastic inserts, and good cable clamping. After soldering over 40 of them either side of a hole in a wall, I didn't wreck any at all, and a year later - no nasty surprises. If I had anopther similar project to do, I would absolutely buy some more of these without concern.

Switchcraft XLRs from the 70s, as fitted back then to the cable that came with SM57 and SM58s were really tough. Avoid like the plague anything like the things in the attached image - based on the old Canon-ITT design. Terrible cable clamp, meltable insert - dubious sizing so very tight or loose in some other connectors. The ones based on the tapered Switchcraft design, but made with metal so thin you can bend it are even worse.

Attached files

Here is where I bought the Chinese ones - https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/High-Quality-20pcs-lot-10pcs-Male-10pcs-Female-Neutrik-Style-3-Pins-cannon-XLR-Connector-Plug/716660_32618903487.html?spm=2114.12010612.0.0.eHyPgT

paulears, post: 451343, member: 47782 wrote: All this said - I did buy, for a project, a big box of chinese XLRs - similar strain relief, and colour coded stripes. I expected complete tat, with the usual cheap plastic insert that melts at the touch of the iron, and nasty bendy pins - but I was actually pleasantly surprised. They were tough, had gold plated pins, hard plastic inserts, and good cable clamping. After soldering over 40 of them either side of a hole in a wall, I didn't wreck any at all, and a year later - no nasty surprises. If I had anopther similar project to do, I would absolutely buy some more of these without concern.

Switchcraft XLRs from the 70s, as fitted back then to the cable that came with SM57 and SM58s were really tough. Avoid like the plague anything like the things in the attached image - based on the old Canon-ITT design. Terrible cable clamp, meltable insert - dubious sizing so very tight or loose in some other connectors. The ones based on the tapered Switchcraft design, but made with metal so thin you can bend it are even worse.

Cool man, good to know. I'll check out the link, maybe I'll order some for practice.

bouldersound, post: 451339, member: 38959 wrote: 1/4" for speaker connection should just go away and be replaced with Speakon)

Agreed.

Mechanically, 1/4" connectors are terrible for high amperage applications. There is so little actual contact area between two perpendicular curved surfaces. The SpeakOn is vastly superior in that department, plus with the SpeakOn contacts the ground(s) before it engages the hot(s). Oh yeah, and that's another advantage, they're available in 2-conductor, 4-conductor, or 8-conductor. And they're easily field-repairable without soldering. The big old Amphenol connectors that look like mutant XLRs are the only other serious choice for biamp / triamp / or even 4-way speaker connectors, but those things are crazy expensive in comparison.

Kyle, I don't hate the Neutrik 1/4", they're OK, but I think the plastic strain-relief is exactly what I don't like about them. They don't seem as durable as the physically larger XLR strain-relief parts. That's exactly where they seem to break. I tend to use 3/8" heatshrink over the Switchcraft, which I find lasts a long time and distributes stress more evenly over the last few inches of the cable. Instrument / guitar cables are more likely to get stepped on. Give me the all metal shell of a Switchcraft 280 every time.

sweet! gonna put some nuetrik in my cart for the order this upcoming week(s). ill try some of those switchcraft 280's while I'm at it. grabbed some heat shrink at the hardware store a couple days ago, and my first solering gun last week (weller light duty from big box retailer), and a 3m pencil. hopefully this tides me over till winter when I order the soldering station ive been eyeing for years.

quick question while we're on the topic, is there a particular brand/type solder and flux you recommend for general audio and power cables. anything I should avoid? this is mostly for practice and mockups as I begin mad scientist phase.

kmetal, post: 451361, member: 37533 wrote: sweet! gonna put some nuetrik in my cart for the order this upcoming week(s). ill try some of those switchcraft 280's while I'm at it. grabbed some heat shrink at the hardware store a couple days ago, and my first solering gun last week (weller light duty from big box retailer), and a 3m pencil. hopefully this tides me over till winter when I order the soldering station ive been eyeing for years.

quick question while we're on the topic, is there a particular brand/type solder and flux you recommend for general audio and power cables. anything I should avoid? this is mostly for practice and mockups as I begin mad scientist phase.

What temperature of bit did you get for your soldering iron? If it's one specified for leaded solder (around 310 deg C), then it won't work well for unleaded (needs at least 340 deg C). If you can still buy it, it's not illegal to use leaded solder for home/hobby projects, but you have to use unleaded for any commercial work.

3m pencil? Not sure what this is?

Hey Kyle,

I certainly wish you luck with your 3M Brand pencil, but it gets terrible reviews. Since Radio Shack folded, there's really not anywhere I trust to buy solder or soldering tools locally. The big-box stores don't seem to know the difference between soldering copper plumbing and soldering an XLR connector. I'm not sure what any of the 'hobbyist" irons are intended for. You won't go wrong with any of the Weller products, but be aware the 100w (or higher) gun is going to heat things up to a higher temperature very quickly. High temp isn't a deal breaker, but you do need to be cautious about getting things too hot and having the plastics melt from all the residual heat. Heat sink clamps can only do so much to dissipate the heat when the solder gets super-heated. And obviously the higher the temp, the longer it takes for the solder to cool and solidify. To give yourself a fighting chance, it's important you have the work held firmly in place, so you have both hands free for the iron and solder. Plus, holding everything in place while the solder cools and solidifies is going to give you a more reliable connection. Sometimes a hotter iron/gun is better, and sometimes you want a cooler iron. I have 12w, 25w, 35w, and 60w pencils and the 100w gun for different applications. And using an iron that's not quite hot enough to heat the parts being soldered evenly, means holding the iron on everything much longer to get the solder to melt - and that's no better in terms of melting plastics than using the big overkill gun. As a rule, I'd rather have a little hotter iron and have things situated so I could heat it very quickly and get out. If I have to hold the iron to the connector for more than a few seconds to melt the solder, I don't have a hot enough iron. Variable temperature solder stations are great if you're just working at a workbench, not so great for the field work I'm usually doing. The cheap ones usually aren't worth a damn. The integrated iron holder is convenient.

Hemostats (forceps), are good as heat sinks and for just plain holding things in place. So if you don't have a couple (for any other non-soldering / non-surgical / perfectly innocent purposes), they're a handy thing to have in your soldering kit.

I get all my soldering related tools / supplies from MCM Electronics in Ohio.

I use a rosin core lead alloy 60% tin/ 40% lead.

Theoretically the rosin core solder should make additional flux almost unnecessary, but for soldering to fresh shiny metal parts like you're talking about, a tiny bit of flux at MCM will make your life much easier and your end result much better. The DeOxit paste is good. For the past few years I've been favoring the GC brand liquid flux. Both are incredibly sticky by nature, and I find that if I leave my toolbox in the truck in the summer the heat will will inevitably liquify the paste to some extent and it leaks into my tool case. And on a related note, unless I'm working in an ideal workspace, I will screw the lid on the liquid flux in-between applications. I've learned that lesson the hard way about cables knocking over the bottle, and it's like cleaning up liquid pine tar ( because that's essentially what it is).

Separately added flux is essential.

Agreed: The right temperature iron is also key. Too cold and you hold it there until the plastic parts melt, too hot and the plastic parts melt before you get the soldering done. I find a 30w iron to work well for most of what I do, XLR and 1/4" connectors.

solering gun

https://www.parts-express.com/weller-8200pk-100-140-watt-soldering-gun-kit--372-070

soler iro

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O65UGGI/?tag=r06fa-20

Boswell, post: 451362, member: 29034 wrote: What temperature of bit did you get for your soldering iron? If it's one specified for leaded solder (around 310 deg C), then it won't work well for unleaded (needs at least 340 deg C). If you can still buy it, it's not illegal to use leaded solder for home/hobby projects, but you have to use unleaded for any commercial work.

I'm not sure what temperature they run at. The soldering iron was a $5 jam at the big box, which probably wont last or work well acoording to hawks research, and pretty much what I figured. its 30w, according to what I could find. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O65UGGI/?tag=r06fa-20

The soldering gun has low and high power, 100w/140w, which I thought would be good for heavy duty things, although the packagingncites electronics as an intended use. it comes with three tips - 'soldering, smoothing, cutting'. here it is https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O65UGGI/?tag=r06fa-20

not sure if either is appropriate, in don't know how to convert wattage to tip temperature, or wattage to temp, in general.

paulears, post: 451363, member: 47782 wrote: 3m pencil? Not sure what this is?

lol sorry that wasn't clear. this area is new to me. and I can see how it would be misleading to anyone who uses the metric system daily. its a "3m'" brand product, and a "pencil" style soldering iron, which might be slang. either way its looking like I shouldn't expect much if anything from this thing.

dvdhawk, post: 451366, member: 36047 wrote: Hey Kyle,

I certainly wish you luck with your 3M Brand pencil, but it gets terrible reviews. Since Radio Shack folded, there's really not anywhere I trust to buy solder or soldering tools locally. The big-box stores don't seem to know the difference between soldering copper plumbing and soldering an XLR connector. I'm not sure what any of the 'hobbyist" irons are intended for. You won't go wrong with any of the Weller products, but be aware the 100w (or higher) gun is going to heat things up to a higher temperature very quickly. High temp isn't a deal breaker, but you do need to be cautious about getting things too hot and having the plastics melt from all the residual heat. Heat sink clamps can only do so much to dissipate the heat when the solder gets super-heated. And obviously the higher the temp, the longer it takes for the solder to cool and solidify. To give yourself a fighting chance, it's important you have the work held firmly in place, so you have both hands free for the iron and solder. Plus, holding everything in place while the solder cools and solidifies is going to give you a more reliable connection. Sometimes a hotter iron/gun is better, and sometimes you want a cooler iron. I have 12w, 25w, 35w, and 60w pencils and the 100w gun for different applications. And using an iron that's not quite hot enough to heat the parts being soldered evenly, means holding the iron on everything much longer to get the solder to melt - and that's no better in terms of melting plastics than using the big overkill gun. As a rule, I'd rather have a little hotter iron and have things situated so I could heat it very quickly and get out. If I have to hold the iron to the connector for more than a few seconds to melt the solder, I don't have a hot enough iron. Variable temperature solder stations are great if you're just working at a workbench, not so great for the field work I'm usually doing. The cheap ones usually aren't worth a damn. The integrated iron holder is convenient.

Hemostats (forceps), are good as heat sinks and for just plain holding things in place. So if you don't have a couple (for any other non-soldering / non-surgical / perfectly innocent purposes), they're a handy thing to have in your soldering kit.

I get all my soldering related tools / supplies from MCM Electronics in Ohio.

I use a rosin core lead alloy 60% tin/ 40% lead.

Theoretically the rosin core solder should make additional flux almost unnecessary, but for soldering to fresh shiny metal parts like you're talking about, a tiny bit of flux at MCM will make your life much easier and your end result much better. The DeOxit paste is good. For the past few years I've been favoring the GC brand liquid flux. Both are incredibly sticky by nature, and I find that if I leave my toolbox in the truck in the summer the heat will will inevitably liquify the paste to some extent and it leaks into my tool case. And on a related note, unless I'm working in an ideal workspace, I will screw the lid on the liquid flux in-between applications. I've learned that lesson the hard way about cables knocking over the bottle, and it's like cleaning up liquid pine tar ( because that's essentially what it is).

Good stuff Dave. any of your recommendations ive been fortunate enough to follow, have left me satisfied. ill grab a 30w (or so) weller pencil at the store next time I'm in the area. ive had their digital soldering (WESD51) station in my amazon cart for like 2 years, so I guess this year is time. I was hoping to have a sort of table or cart dedicated to this sort of thing, by the winter, when I am planning on getting the station.

ill keep my eyes open for deals on the other wattages you mentioned. radio shaft was where I got a couple other soldering irons and connectors ect, for different bands and the studios. since their demise ive been getting crushed at mainstream electronics retailers. they'll sell the computer at cost, and the cable or adapter at 10000%, capitalism at its most obvious. not that I haven't bought several, at least half a dozen, 1/4' extensions, and adapters, that flat out didn't work, back when radio shaft was open. I learned to buy a couple at a time. lol. but it was often at least better than buying the same generic thing online and waiting, and dealing w the logistics, and customer service. definitely the way to go for "oh crap" moments at gigs.

anyway, does anyone have any like go to 'throw away' type brands for soldering irons, tips, ect. like something similar to radio shack? its fine if its online. I want to have some stuff for practice, and spares/worksite, and some stuff for more serious applications and my bench. although, tools, the irons ill likely grab reliable brands as often as possible, its nice to have some odd wattages, in a lesser brand, or for spares. some stuff for the shop, some for the road basically.

good call on the deoxit, ill have to grab some as well. ditto on the forcepts, and clamps/heat sinks, gonna have to look into them, don't know anything about them. I got a little hobby style set of helping hands, but its butterfly nuts are kinda shady feeling. I need something more heavy duty on the sooner I'm guessing... any sugesstions?

after that ill need a good bench tester, and some good books, videos and coaches.

thanks a ton everyone, your input is invaluable. much appreciated.

kmetal, post: 451380, member: 37533 wrote: I need something more heavy duty on the sooner I'm guessing... any sugesstions?

Paul's suggestion of mounting a male and female of the connectors into a panel, or piece of wood is a perfectly good, cheap way to hold your work steady. I think having the XLRs mated together while you're soldering actually helps dissipate some of the heat too, to a small extent.

If you end up buying anything from MCM their house-brand (Tenma) irons are surprisingly good for all the more they cost.

Buy a real soldering station. Seriously. Not one of those trigger heaters. Especially if you're doing a LOT of soldering. I have a Hakko. Its special.

Also. I use wood clamps. The spring type with rubber on the teeth area. They are a nice triangle base to hold your work where you need it. If you are doing a LOT of connections, don't overlook the need for a lamp with a magnifier in the center. The fatigue comes from having to squint at what you're soldering and after a while it effects your neck muscles and arms and back and......ya know.....You can get these relatively cheap at used manufacturing equipment sales. They also have great chairs. Some will also have pro soldering stations used........Some have free shipping.

I know it's a lot of outlay but in your case with the project you are going into, these things will make things SO much easier. When I upgraded and built all of my cables, afterward I couldn't have imagined doing it with one of the woodburning sets....which is basically what those type of soldering irons are for. A soldering station allows you to set the temperature and keeps it there. Very very handy.

AND buy the best solder you can afford. You will more than likely have to go online for the good stuff. But having a solder that reacts correctly ....flows where you apply heat...sets without a cold joint....doesn't create impedance spikes....all things to consider when you go about this.

Neutrik and nothing else.

For XLR's I now use the Neutrik EMC series wherever possible as there is too much stray RF around nowadays.

Wow nuetrik by a landslide here huh? Excellent point John about all the RF. With all the wifi, ect these days, I'm wondering when audio connectors themselves will go the way of the dinosaur.

If there is cable, there's always a connector! I suspect the simple truth is that Neutrik might not be the best out there, but they do what they say on the box. If you had a pile of types and had to pick one for a crucial job - we'd all pick the Neutrik. No good reason not to!