I don't know if it is still their practice, but JBL used to offer cabinets under multiple numbers.

Meanwhile, the cab is designed to work with particular speakers (and crossovers...). Yeah, you can cram any old 12 incher in there, but don't expect it to sound the same.

Bill

Hey Chance,

If I'm not mistaken, the L100 is basically the "home" version of the 4311. The components of the 4311 are a 2213 woofer, LE 5-2 midrange and an LE 25 tweeter. I don't know what the crossover is called. Have you looked on ebay? There's somebody selling the components of an L100 right now on ebay. The mids are item #3078264948. Just type in LE 25 when you're browsing. Judging by this ebay auction, the mid and tweeter components of the L100 and the 4311 are identical, the woofer is apparently a 123A-1 and I don't know if it's the same as the 2213. The crossovers may be harder to find. But placing other components in the cabinets is going to be somewhat of a crap shoot in terms of your sound quality.

You also may be able to find out more information on the website http://www.lansingheritage.org. It has a lot of information about vintage JBL speakers.

I have a pair of vintage 4311b's which I use as mid-field monitors and they're amazing.

And there's an EBay auction for a pair of L100 crossovers ....

Item number 3077152187.

Cheers.

Thanks guys

Originally posted by Chance:
Does any one know what the difference is between the JBL 4311 and the JBL L-100 ?

:)

Specs for L-100

Recommended Power Amplifier Range: 50 watts continuous • Nominal Impedance: 8 ohms • Woofer: 12" • Midrange Driver: 5" • Tweeter: 2" • Crossover Frequency(ies): 2.5kHz, 7.5kHz • Sensitivity: 91dB (1 watt/1 meter)

Specs for 4311 Control Monitor

Recommended Power Amplifier Range: 75 Watts continuous-Nominal Impedance : 8 ohms – Woofer : 12” 3” edgewound copper ribbon Voice coil: Mid driver 5” 7/8” copper voice coil-Tweeter: 1 and ¼” nominal size: voice coil 5/8” copper: Crossover Frequency(ies): 1500 and 6000hz – Sensitivity : 42db at 30 feet with a 1 –mW input. 81 db at 10 feet with 1 watt input. Weight: 42 pounds

IMO, they are not the same animal, however the L-100 is still I fine speaker. The cossovers are different, the porting is different. The power handling is different, the position of the woofer is on top with the 4311, on the bottom with the L-100.

L-100 is a much lighter speaker, most due to the LF drivers massive magnet in the 4311. The surrounds on the 4311 woofer are quite different as well. The crossover has very large components, and resides at the bottom of the 4311. The Caps are huge. Note the xover range differences.
The 4311 was built for the riggers of studio mnitoring, where the L-100 was built as a home speaker, fine sound but different in many ways. The cab size may be similar, but the construction is heavier.

--Rick

WOW
It sounds like you've been around the track a few laps.
Do you have any recomondations on retrofitting L-100 Cabinets with updated hdw
like spkrs & X-over ?
and Thanks for the well documented info

Originally posted by Chance:
WOW
It sounds like you've been around the track a few laps.
Do you have any recomondations on retrofitting L-100 Cabinets with updated hdw
like spkrs & X-over ?
and Thanks for the well documented info

:) Chance, I retro fitted my 4311's with tri-power. The electronic xover was set for the correct frequencies. I used 750 watts RMS for the woofers. 250 watts RMS for the mids, and 50 watts RMS for the tweets. However, I found out that all the chokes & Caps and design in the original crossover IS so important to the time alignment and sound of the speaker as a complete design.

It sounded nice and clean and powerful as tri-power, but I will resort to the original configuration.

IMO, look for a nice well kept used pair of 4311's. The cabinet is but a small part of the design of a system. By the time you have finished with a confident design, you will probably have as much rapped up in the cost as getting a fine used pair. And as said before, how can you really test it's accuracy when finished? If you do go the rebuild, use the original components for the original speaker. Either L-100 components and box, or 4311 components and box.

--Rick