(Dead Link Removed)
Then you need a good soundcard.
A second monitor?
OS?
Good luck!
I've just built my first computer just a few days ago... and next week I will start on my next one.
This place has been so helpful with everything.

Hey Ranus...How's your ANUS!! lmao! Did you choose that name based on the Anus? :p
Good job if so!
Welcome to RO :c: and the ANUS club! I'm not only an addict but I'm the president! Hee hee!
Anyhue...Tore is correct...DDR 333 PC 2700...Kingston actually is nice. I've always had great success with it...a lot of people like Samsung as well..
Make sure you have some ATA100 80pin cables...this will get you UDMA5.
Just disable the onboard SATA and RAID and you'll be good to go! Make sure you update the BIOS to V1002 for that board. Asus makes it real easy to do so by pressing ALT F2 on boot up and then you just load the BIOS via floppy and you're good to go!
high recommendation is to get some good thermal paste for the processor...remove what's on their with some rubbing alocohol and apply some Arctic Thermal(AC3) paste and it will help keeo your temps down..
Any other questions feel free to ask!
Cheers
Opus

Newegg seems to be okay. I bought my parts from them when I built my audio computer. I had a few bad parts but they replaced them with no hassles whatsoever. Make sure your fans are quiet if you plan on tracking in the computer room.

Thanks for the BIOS info, OPUS. I'm booting my p4pe today for the first time. I got the BIOS off ASUS this AM and am ready to go.

Wish me luck!

Thanks for the info!

Am I to assume that the cables I need don't come with the Motherboard and I need to order them seperately?

Sorry if this is a dumb question...

Ranus
No, the motherboard comes with one 40pin/80 Conductor ATA100 cable, One 40pin/40 conductor ATA66 Cable and one Floppy cable. It's best to get a second ATA100 cable for the secondary IDE controller.
HTH
Opus

Well, I was somewhat successful with my initial build, but have a couple issues. Perhaps someone could lend their expertise:

First, the updated BIOS didn't take when I went to read it off the floppy. It wouldn't recognize the file at first (I did unzip it!), then the next time it warned me of a incompatability. Is this because I didn't do the update immediately before making some other configurations? Wierd.

So, after this hiccup I'm wondering, what this update would provide for me. My system is working well at the moment. Is there a necessary enhancement that I'm not aware of?

Thanks again, all.

did you type the new BIOS name as P4PE1002.awd? if not it won't do it...that's probably why it didn't take...also make sure you got the correct language/region version. English(obviously) is the one you want.
The updates I believe correct some CPU temp readings and other misc features that are worth it..I also think they fix some hyperthreading thang but I can't remember
Opus

Thanks, OPUS. Yes, that's the exact file name alright. Somehow it won't take. I'll try another disc when I get out to buy some fresh floppies. All of mine are at least three years old!

I can't remember the last I bought floppies.

OPUS:

high recommendation is to get some good thermal paste for the processor...remove what's on their with some rubbing alocohol and apply some Arctic Thermal(AC3) paste and it will help keeo your temps down..

Ooops... My processor is 4 2.4BGHz 512K 533MHz CPU Northwood P478 Processor , so should I remove that black Thermal tape and apply AC3 instead?
Talking about temperature, I have 2 questions:
1. To monitor the CPU temperature, is the software that comes with the mobo good enough?
2.How high can the CPU temperature be before I risk to damage the processor?

Talking about buying an extra ATA100 cable... are those rounded IDE-cables worth going for? They say they're good if you want to keep the air flow in your case... They cost a little bit more but if
they reduce the CPU-temperature just a little bit I'll go for them.

Updating BIOS:
By the way, I've just built the computor for my mother-in-law, and I found out that the manual (both paper and read-me-file) is wrong about the location of the "AFLASH.EXE" on the CD.(AFLASH is a program to save the original BIOS set-up on a floppy disk)
It's very hard to find out when you're working in DOS. The correct path should be "D:softwareaflash" instead of "D:aflash

Hopefully this manual-mistake is corrected on later mobos ( this was ASUS P4B266 SE)

Tore
Yes, it's highly recommended to use a better thermal paste to lower heat temps...
typical temps with a stock heat sink should be around 40c on a idel load and about 45-50c on a full load...maybe a bit higher too.
If it starts to get around 70c or higher...start thinking about some more fans or to get the thermal paste. The CPU can handle it and will autmotically adjust itself. I never installed the Asus Probe stuff...I usually use Sandra or WCPUID to monitor it.
Also the newer Asus boards have the EZ flash where all you need to do is hit ALT F2 and it automatically launches the BIOS updater! No more Aflash needed man! It's very very nice indeed!
Cheers
Opus

Thanx again OPUS for this information.
I went out today to look for Arctic Thermal(AC3) paste... I couldn't Find it. Was it maybe [[url=http://[/URL]="http://www.arcticsi…"]AS3[/]="http://www.arcticsi…"]AS3[/] that you meant?
By the way... I got my case today! So tomorrow I will start to build my DAW... I'm sooo excited.
I'm starting to like this PC-building process... I think that I have to start building DAW's for all my friends.
OPUS, you're such an inspiration!

Doh....AS3 it is indeed...that's what you get when you read a bunch of techie posts where numbers, specs, names and all sorts of geek related topics fly around like shit through a fan! :D

Definately use the Arctic Silver 3 ... it DOES give you a few extra degrees of difference compared to tape or that white pastey junk.
I bought a couple of those round IDE cables, and they're now sitting in one of my parts boxes. For one thing, the end boots are funky, and dont cover the ends of the wires when they're bent in the least bit. Removing them from drives is more difficult than flat cables. Also, 80-wire UATA flat leads are constructed in a way that every other wire acts as an insulator. When you run individual wires through a plastic sheath, you don't have that insulation. I sort-of "roll" my flat cables, now, and rubber-band them (thus rounding them) to allow for the air-flow benefit. It doesn't look as cool as the colored rounded cables, but it allows you the benefits of the flat cables with better airflow. However, I only "roll" the long part of the cable, not the short section between drives.
In this thread, I didn't see you mention your CPU heatsink/fan. Do you intend to use the stock items? That'll work, but with a GOOD aftermarket unit, you'll reap many advantages. I know a lot of guys here use the stock units, but I definately would not.

Actually SOS the stock Intel heatsink is great! Very quiet and very efficient especially with the AS3 compound! Most [H]ard forum guys that OC are doing great with it! Just an FYI!
You don't have to spend the extra cash on a special heatsink.
As far as the cables go...I do the same exact thing as SOS in regards to rolling them up so to speak. It's more of a bundling them so that they are out of the way type of thang.
Opus

OPUS,
I had to spend all night in the studio last night so I had no time for my ANUS. But tonight I'm starting. I have a few questions about the BIOS setup. Anything that I should think about?
I have ASUS P4B533-V, do I need to update BIOS?
I will disable "MOBO-audio"... but can I keep the LAN? I'd really like to be able to transfer files from my other computor.
Then when I install Win XP-pro... and I format my HD's you said somewhere should be configured as this:
OS-drive: Primary
Audio-drive: Extended
Should I make any partitions on the drives?
I just thought since their rather large drives
(OS 60 Gb, Audio 120 Gb) it should save some time when you "defrag" them if they were in 2 partitions. Or would that slow down the system?
I also remember that somewhere you said that you should do some changes with the "writing procedure" on the OS-drive, but I just can't find that thread.
I'd be very grateful if you could answer this.
Here's my system:
Asus P4B533-V w/ P4 2.4Ghz with 533 FSB
512 Samsung PC2700 DDR 333
Western Digital 120GB JB (8 Mb cache)
Seagate Barracuda 60GB ( OS-drive)
Lite-on CD-RW
Chieftec case
Win XP Pro
ATI Rage Pro (32 MB) Video Card
RME-Hammerfall LE (Soundcard)
Cubase SX
Logic Audio

I know that most people use the stock HS/fan on the P4s, with decent results for overclocking. I just feel that when it comes to cooling, the more the merrier. The more you overclock, the more benefit you receive from a more-efficient CPU cooling solution. My reasoning is that if you spend $50 on an awesome cooler, it's smart money spent to protect and extend the life of your $200+ CPU. Whether you overclock or not, depending which HS/fan upgrade you choose, if you're running 5 to 10 degrees cooler, that's a GOOD thing, and well worth the money invested. And of course, if you are overclocking to the highest possible stable limit, the better your CPU is cooled, the higher you'll be able to go.
I hope you don't mind, but I'd like to take this opportunity to also discuss cooling other system components. The case fans on my new peecee are relatively less loud than most that I've heard on other peecees, including the other two in my house, yet I find that they're the only fans that I hear. I don't notice any extra noise being generated by the fans inside my computer. I recently replaced the stock fan on my Radeon 9000 Pro and the heatsink on my mobo northbridge with Thermaltake Crystal Orbs, and installed a Vantec harddrive cooler which has 2 fans. I don't hear them at all. Zilch. There's a total of 7 fans in my puter, yet it's what I consider to be very reaonable in terms of db, since all I actually hear is the case fans. And remember that my peecee doesn't have the metal sides on it, I use the fiber filters for sides. With the metal sides on, my peecee runs hotter and is noticeably louder, so that's a no-no.

SOS, I will use the stock Intel heatsink/fan now... This is my first DAW and maybe I'll do it different later or next time. That advice to skip the Intel Thermal tape and go for the Artic Silver
made a "3-day-delay"...since it was hard to find. I can't wait any longer.
About cooling the CPU, I thought that maybe I should keep my DAW on the balcony? It was minus 20 C here two days ago...Then I can really overclock it. :D

BTW, Sos, Do you use any fans for your HD's?
Do you think I'll need it?

Originally posted by Opus2000:
I usually use Sandra or WCPUID to monitor it.

OPUS, where do I aquire these monitoring applications?

Thanks.

Tore....you'll need some antifreeze if you're going to use it on the porch! :D
I do recommend at least one fan in the front of the machine pushing air through and letting the enermax fan suck it out after it's hit the CPU fan...great circulation that way...
the AS3 is going to be a big saviour in terms of CPU heat...buddy of mine built a dual AMD machine(he's a mac guy and he built it himself with my help of course...and he's in NYC!!!) He learned the hard way about thermal paste....he never knew about it! Anyhue...his machine would constantly shut down on him...turns out he never applied the paste to the heat sink...dumb ass! lol
Abyhue..told him to get the Arctic AS3 and voilla....all problems gone!
You don't need a hard drive cooler as long as you have good circulation going on...plain and simple...enjoy your ANUS
Opus :D

Thank you Opus!
I have a fan (PAPST) that I will put in the case-front.

letting the enermax fan suck it out after it's hit the CPU fan

Hmmm...you got me there, I haven't bought the enermax PSU yet... I'd thought I'd build the DAW and see how good the chieftec fan is... I will probably need to make the DAW more silent, then I will order a Enermax PSU 350w and some Novibe HD-tray and finally add some Magic Feece inside the case. That will be my update No.1.

It was a little bit "tricky" to get the right amount of AS3 on the CPU. I used a credit card to get the right thickness and trying to get an even surface... it went quite well, but I also guess that the pressure from the heatsink equalized any irregularities in the film-thickness.
Right now I'm trying to figure out how to set the jumpers on my HD's.
I Have the Seagate-OS (master) and CD-RW (slave) on IDE-1. Then I have the WD-audio as the only device on IDE-2. If I understand previous posts, I shpould also set the jumpers on that drive as master.... or am I wrong,should it be "single drive"?

The Chieftec PSU will do just fine.
Min spinner och myser som en katt, as we say in sweden...
:D

Thank you Eskimo! Since you used a chieftec case, I want to ask you this:
My Mobo came with a "replacement plate" for the case... you where all the external stuff is connected (mouse, keyboard,USB....) That's good since otherwise the mobo won't fit the standard holes on the case. My only problem is, how do you remove the original plate from the case, without using too much voilence? Or maybe you didn't have to do that for your mobo?

I had to do that aswell, I've got an Asus P4PE.
Take a screwdriver and bend out the little 'ears' on the panel(from the inside of the case) one by one and it should come off. I guess a certain amount off force is useful :D

Well thanx again Eskimo.
Just out of curiosity, how "much" can you run on your DAW without any trouble? Audio tracks,plug-insand so on. I really don't know what to expect from my DAW... but I'd really like to beat the old Mac G4 that we have in the studio.
And by the way, var i Sverige bor du?
/ Tore in Stockholm

I haven't pushed my DAW to any limits yet. been busy doin other stuff. But I'm certain there's more tracks/pluginpower then I know what to do with.
Och jag bor i Uppsala. Har pluggat ljudteknik i Solna vid SAE för ett år sen.

Uppsala, that's were [[url=http://[/URL]="http://www.whynoi.s…"]whynoi.se[/]="http://www.whynoi.s…"]whynoi.se[/] is. If you haven't done it yet, drop in and see their products for making your PC silent. "Novibe" HD-tray, Enermax PSU...They even have Magic Fleece-kits for Cheiftec cases.
Well... maybe you're satisfied with just a spinning cat on your recordings... but since I'm planning to record some very "weak" instruments I need silence.

I'm one step ahead of you. I've got an 100% silent sollution and it's 100% free!
I drilled a hole in the wall and put my computer in another room. Ok, it's not 100% free, I had to buy som extension cable's aswell.

About removing the "replacement plate"
Eskimo wrote:

I guess a certain amount off force is useful

Well, this is how it went:
I took a screwdriver and tried to bend out the little 'ears' on the panel... and the screwdriver slipped ... my finger ran into those nasty little "metal-wings" ... those thin wings around the holes took a big "bite" right into the bones of my finger :eek: ... So now I'm just trying to get rid of all the blood inside my case.
Well, I knew my DAW would cost me money, sweat and tears... but blood too?