I bought a rack shelf @ GC. I used a longer screw to attach a Brick & a Ditto to the rack shelf using the same screw holes that are used for the units' rubber feet. Keeping the rubber feet on allows room to breathe & cool & adds a little bit of a shock mount, but the feets make the racked unit a little taller. With both units installed, with the rubber feet left on, Its a little taller than 2u, but, I think that this is a good thing! This forces me to leave a little space in my rack for cooling. The shelf has an open top, back & front. ...plenty 0 room to cool here. Right now I have The Brick & a Ditto on the shelf....Im sure I would have room for at least one more Brick or maby two & still allow plenty of room for heat dissapation. The rack shelf cost me about $20.00... Low Tech & Affordable!!!

That sounds like a great idea. I've got to try it.

i did that with an old zoom guitar modler, though i didnt think i even used it after the mod.

somthing else you should do as i would probably be real simple is add a phase switch. i think i will do that on mine just the way they are. am i the only one who likes the form factor of the brick?

I'm here
sorry but I've had trouble getting on the forum over the past few days

Simple shelf mounting is a good idea and doesn't disturp the box.
.... so when you say racking, I think you might mean rebuilding.
It is all do-able but this will probably void the warranty.
... obviously
Yes a PHASE and PAD could be added.
and any other ideas yu may have.

these added things may make it worth the effort ... could be a cool entry into DIY in general.

If the construction is modular then it could be easy.
Power supplies ... unless you make a new power supply it is likely you will have 4 PS's in the box ....
:roll:
two units per single rack box ... ??
this will depend on the size of some of the internals like transfomers etc.

I'd like to see the inside of a brick before I give a definative answer.

Yeah can anyone post a picture?
I was thinking about ripping the whole damn brick apart and putting it back in maybe something like a 2 space rackmount enclosure.
I think Radial dot com sells them. Maybe also Redco dot com.
But, it can't be that hard.

The only thing about permanently mounting them is that I really love being able to take them around where I need them, especially when using them as a DI. Also, the Brick is just about indestructible in its current housing.

JBsound wrote: I really love being able to take them around where I need them, especially when using them as a DI.

What instruments do you use them as a DI on?
Just trying to justify buying more than one.

I use them mainly on bass and also on acoustic guitar (mostly live use on the acoustic). I haven't had the chance to really test them a lot on keyboard but they aren't too shabby in that department.

I think it's most advantageous to have the non-rackmount feature in a live setting. Even when using it as a pre on vocals its nice to be able to drop it up there on stage by the mic stand or something and just tweak the level back at the board. A lot of live setups aren't using something as nice as the Brick on very many channels.

When I'm tracking a band, I'm usually using up all of my outboard pre's on other stuff, so I can send a brick out to where the bass player or a guitar player who is going direct is playing. No separate DI to preamp, etc. Also, the 'instrument thru' feature allows you to take a nice DI signal off of a guitar/bass and record a track that you can use later for reamping. This can be a good thing, especially when doing something live or with the whole band at once. I don't have to worry about getting the perfect amp sound b/c I can always reamp it and tweak the amp in a more isolated setup later.

It would be cool if someone could figure out how to add a pad to the brick. I dunno about racking four of them together. I think I would rather just get the four channel Sebatron for pretty much the same money minus the hassle.

But it would be pretty pimp to put a couple of them in a 2U chromed out case or something. You could make it look like your secret weapon.

Hey Guys, nice response so far. Maybe we can make a group project out of this and post our progress and photos. Gaff you okay with this?

Kev, glad you jumped in.

so when you say racking, I think you might mean rebuilding.

Yes exactly. I would like to move the XLR ins and outs and insturment thru to the back of the unit (well the rack case) since they a currently on the front. This just works better for cabling purposes ie. no cables dangling out of the front of the rack. I would like to keep the DI in front for quick access along with the gain knob and ground lift switch. The power and phantom power switch should be moved to the front as well adding a phase and pad that you mentioned. I have no issue with 2 power supplies in the same case but I would like to pare it down to 1 A/C cord feeding both. I would like to use a vented 2U case to house the units in since it should aid in cooling and I'm not pressed for rack space. Then maybe an anodized case front and some chicken head knobs to make it look cool too. Of course everyone could make it look the way they want.

these added things may make it worth the effort ... could be a cool entry into DIY in general.

I agree, a great DIY learning experience and fun too.

Power supplies ... unless you make a new power supply it is likely you will have 4 PS's in the box ....

I hope this doesn't become a stumbling block.

two units per single rack box ... ??
this will depend on the size of some of the internals like transfomers etc.

I'm thinking 2U but I'll get some dimensions on the brick and any other info I can to help you decide if it's feasible.

I'd like to see the inside of a brick before I give a definative answer.

Would photos help? If so maybe someone with a Brick could post them. If not I'll pick one up and post the pics.

For those of you that don't know, Kev ran the former DIY forum here at RO (until some !@#$%'s ruined it for us all) and has an excellent website on DIY projects with lot's of links to other great resources. He has many many years of DIY under his belt and has built some of the coolest gear I've ever seen. He is the one who can make this project painless for us all (well accept for solder burns) so the more info we can provide him the smoother this will go.

Kev, I'm sure I'll be saying this alot but thanks for your help and input.

am i the only one who likes the form factor of the brick?

Not at all, I like the looks of it. It's just that for me having them racked and all the controls in the right place is better for me.

think it's most advantageous to have the non-rackmount feature in a live setting

Good point, it's nice to be able to drop one wherever you need it but in a rack the control placement just doesn't work. That's something to think about though, hummm maybe a third one not racked of course.

But it would be pretty pimp to put a couple of them in a 2U chromed out case or something.

Yeah with black knobs and silkscreening maybe some red or blue lights, I like it.

ill see if i can post a couple pics of one although i cant afourd this litle diy.

goto ebay and buy a behringer ultagain. that will make a great case.

I don't know how to post pics, but here's a link..

http://www.helios.nl/productinfo/groovetubes/brick/brick_inside_l1.jpg

Hope this helps.

the guy in the "wall of bricks" picture looks like a heaver vincent price.

Huh? Where you talking bout this guy?

That brick inerds picture looks pretty sexy. I'm still waiting for one of you brave DIY guys to screw around with different tubes and Transformers®™ in this thing. I'm afraid I don't have the resources to try different stuff in it. But if someone finds something that makes it sound like way cool, I would be willing to pull it open and order some parts.

http://www.helios.nl/productinfo/groovetubes/brick/wall-of-Bricks_01.jpg

Thanks Grooveteer, That's just what we needed.

This may be easier than I thought.

It looks to me like the PCB could be mounted on some standoffs, bolt the transformer to the chassis, wire the connectors and switches to the new locations, add the pad and phase switches, drill the new locations on the front and rear of the chasis and test.

So Kev, what do you think? Is this doable?

Big_D wrote: This may be easier than I thought.

correct

:shock:
picure size fixed
Having a brick or two ... in original form is a fine thing.
BUT
if you do want a couple in a rack case permanently mounted so that front and rear panels suit you then do go for it.
It is a chance to have some DIY without too much first up pain.

It may give you the experience to appreciate the more expensive rack jobs of the Neve and API and Telefunken gear.
Knowledge is good

I suggest you get a couple of bricks and leave one original while you work on the second.

Disassemble in to the sections as you said above and then have a good think about your controls and connections ... front or back ... make the choice.
Can't see how the PCB is mounted but I hope it is 4 screws and this could be then mounted on the base of the new box. Use the existing Trafo mounts and try to place it in a similar position and distance.

now shuffle switches and controls from front to back as you want ... use similar types of wire as the original.

Don't work on unit two unless the first is opperational and you are happy with the method.

Second idea is mount the PCB in exactly the same way and use a vertical metal plate ... this will help to shield one module from the next.

Power can be one pre unit or you could strap all the primaries together and have one IEC inlet with a larger fuse.

8)
Big_D
I can expand on this more and make up a page and post it here at RO if you like ...
someone else will have to provide pictures as I don't have access to a couple of Bricks.
Any Australians out there want a pair of Bricks mounted ??

Gaff you okay with this?

Ya, ok with me. Let's just make sure we don't violate any RO rules or copyright for anything that gets posted.

You might even try to call Pitman at Groove Tubes ask for suggestions on how would do the mod. He has liklwet even already thoguht about it and may just tell you or offer to do it for you. That's something a real pro audio shop can do that a mass produced factory can not. Call him, You never know...

AudioGaff wrote: may just tell you or offer to do it for you.

When you call him, tell him that the Recording.Org web-site has about 10 orders already for a multi-channel rackmount unit.
And put me down as one of them :wink:

I'm looking at a Brick with no pants on.. :oops:

Kev: The PCB is mounted with 4 screws indeed. I you want the PCB to be mounted vertically this is going to be easier than you thought: The PCB is mounted to L-shaped strips of metal which are bolted to the bottom plate of the Brick's housing. > All you'd have to do is drill 4 holes in the bottom of your new housing.

Funny thing: There's actually 2 boards. One PCB and another one with no components on it (just one wire for grounding). The second one is mounted parallel to the actual PCB (not really visible on the picture). I have no idea why this is. (Shielding??)

I can take some pictures of the inside of the Brick if you want (that way we won't be violating any copyrights either). Just let me know what you want to see. I will need somebody to host those pics for me, though.

Kind regards,

I'll call Groove Tubes early this week if you want me to. I've got to put a new order in anyway.

What questions do you want me to ask them?

JBsound wrote: What questions do you want me to ask them?

If I may...
I want to know when or if they have any plans to make a Brick unit that is rackmountable. And will it be available in a 2 channel design.

I'll bring it up to them, but last I talked to them a week or so ago and it didn't sound like that was in the future. All their efforts right now are going into getting the glory comp ready.

Does anyone know how we could combine both power supplies?

I can expand on this more and make up a page and post it here at RO if you like ...

That would be great. I'm no novice to electronics as I spent 6 years engineering PCB's before moving into the comptuer field but any advice you have for me is bound to be light years ahead of what I already know. I think I'll need the most help with the pad and phase connections. Another issue is where to get blank rack cases. I have a well tooled woodworking shop so drill press, band saw etc. is not an issue. I will document the whole project and host it so others may benefit. If you want a link just let me know.

It may give you the experience to appreciate the more expensive rack jobs of the Neve and API and Telefunken gear.
Knowledge is good

That's exactly what I was hoping to get out of this. I'm sure we all have some appreciation for it already but there's nothing like doing it yourself to appreciate another man's work.

You might even try to call Pitman at Groove Tubes ask for suggestions on how would do the mod. He has liklwet even already thoguht about it and may just tell you or offer to do it for you.

Excellent idea Gaff, I'm sure he may have some ideas I never thought of. I think I will still build it myself though, you know personal satisfaction and knowledge of the gear I'm using.

Kev: The PCB is mounted with 4 screws indeed. I you want the PCB to be mounted vertically this is going to be easier than you thought: The PCB is mounted to L-shaped strips of metal which are bolted to the bottom plate of the Brick's housing. > All you'd have to do is drill 4 holes in the bottom of your new housing.

Well that's good news, this just keeps getting better.

Funny thing: There's actually 2 boards. One PCB and another one with no components on it (just one wire for grounding). The second one is mounted parallel to the actual PCB (not really visible on the picture). I have no idea why this is. (Shielding??)

It sure sounds like a ground shield to me. One PTH or pad with a ground screw? Is there a cross hatch pattern etched into the PCB or just a solid field?

I can take some pictures of the inside of the Brick if you want (that way we won't be violating any copyrights either). Just let me know what you want to see. I will need somebody to host those pics for me, though.

Cool! I'll host them, PM me and I'll give you my email.

Funny thing: There's actually 2 boards. One PCB and another one with no components on it (just one wire for grounding). The second one is mounted parallel to the actual PCB (not really visible on the picture). I have no idea why this is. (Shielding??)

It sure sounds like a ground shield to me. One PTH or pad with a ground screw? Is there a cross hatch pattern etched into the PCB or just a solid field?

I can take some pictures of the inside of the Brick if you want (that way we won't be violating any copyrights either). Just let me know what you want to see. I will need somebody to host those pics for me, though.

Cool! I'll host them, PM me and I'll give you my email.

There's nothing etched into the PCB, just some holes (that are also in the actual PCB with the components) All there is is a wire for grounding.

I have just joined the RO club, I'll have to wait before the PM function is activated for me. Let me know if there's anything in particular that you would like to see a picture of. (concerning the Brick, that is 8) )

JBsound wrote: Does anyone know how we could combine both power supplies?

you can't combine the power supplies ... explain later
a new power supply
or
use the units you have seperately but from the same mains source

Big_D
I have web space here at RO already
I'm here if you need me

This thread is cool. it should be bronzed and then dipped in chocolate 8) .

Yeah, I had the same power supply question. will you have to get a completly separate power supply or modify the existing to supply for both units.

i just got my Brick and not quite brave enough to open it up just yet but probably will in the future.

So I guess we're looking at a little bit of an expenditure in a new power supply also.

On a different but similar topic...I've had the chance to use mine as an acoustic DI live for a while. I am totally amazed. It actually sounded better as an acoustic DI than the Vipre did in the same exact signal chain in the same place. Not saying the Brick is better than the Vipre, but it does its job very well.

I would like to have a couple in the studio in rackmount form for Keyboard DI and mic preamp usage...also for the occassional bassist that will sit at the mixing console and just listen to the nearfields.

So I guess we're looking at a little bit of an expenditure in a new power supply also.

Not really, you can if you want but that's not how I intend to do it. You can use the existing A/C (mains) connection from the back of one of your bricks and mount it in your new chasis. Now just wire the power supply from each Brick back to the mains. You'll still have 2 power supplies but they'll be fed from 1 A/C cord. Kev may suggest we isolate them from each other in case something ever goes wrong with one it won't damage the other or to prevent noise issues but I'm sure he'll tell us.

I would like to have a couple in the studio in rackmount form for Keyboard DI and mic preamp usage...also for the occassional bassist that will sit at the mixing console and just listen to the nearfields.

That's pretty much my intention, Bass/Keyboard DI and overflow pre's.

Let me know if there's anything in particular that you would like to see a picture of. (concerning the Brick, that is )

Okay how about a shot of Paris Hilton holding a brick (clothing optional of course) :lol:

Seriously how about close up's of both sides, front and back and above looking into the brick. That should do it.

Also if anyone has the dimensions of the PCB and the Transformer please post them as it will help in guaging how to mount them in a 2U case.

Another issue is suppliers of blank rack chasis and faces. If anyone has a link please post it.

I won't be picking up my Bricks till next week (gotta pay for a VMP-4000) but I just wanted to thank you guys who have contributed so far. It's definitely made the planning a little easier.

Don: my PM has been activated.

PCB is approx. 7,5" x 3"

Power suppy is approx 2.5" high

And the 2 transformers are approx 3,4" in total.

(why doesn't everybody just use the metric system? :roll: )

I talked to GT this week. They said that they are considering a rack-mount version of the brick...How sweet is that!!!!!

Apparently they've been getting tons of requests for it. I told them that there are a lot of guys on this board who have been considering it. I guess if you're interested just keep letting them know. They agreed that it would be awesome to have something rackmount like that for the studio guys.

My guess is that they'll have a little more time to think about it after the Glory Comp ships (end of June or early July). That thing is going to be a beast from what they're saying. They've been doing a lot of testing and tweaking on it and it's supposed to be awesome.

Anyway, I'm sure looking forward to a rack-mounted version of the Brick and I'm still open to the DIY method right now. Yeah baby!

Has anyone experimented with different tubes for this beast? Is it even recommended?

I am purchasing a Brick in the next day or so, and I will be using it mostly for voice-over and vocals in a booth.

Which 12AX7 is this thing using? Chinese? European? SAG?

What's the characteristics of the "6205" in the mic signal path? Is it a 12AT7 or what? Could I swap in a 6201M for a quieter/smoother mic sound on my condensers?

Quiet, warm, and fat is what I am looking for without too much compression.

Or should I just shut my trap, buy the thing, and trust the geniuses who yanked it out of the most evil and clever depths of Hell?

roguescout wrote: Has anyone experimented with different tubes for this beast? Is it even recommended?

I am purchasing a Brick in the next day or so, and I will be using it mostly for voice-over and vocals in a booth.

Which 12AX7 is this thing using? Chinese? European? SAG?

What's the characteristics of the "6205" in the mic signal path? Is it a 12AT7 or what? Could I swap in a 6201M for a quieter/smoother mic sound on my condensers?

Quiet, warm, and fat is what I am looking for without too much compression.

Or should I just shut my trap, buy the thing, and trust the geniuses who yanked it out of the most evil and clever depths of Hell?

I was just about to post that question. :D

I've had my Brick for about 5 months now. Soon after I got it, I removed the cover to see what was under the hood. The main tube has a shield on it that can't be removed without getting to the underside of the PCB, which is a little complicated because there is some kind of secondary PCB board underneath the main one... for grounding? I dunno. They didn't make it super easy to get to that tube.

Anyway... it works so well as is, that I wasn't strongly motivated to go further. But one of these days I'll pull that sucker and try a NOS replacement. I don't know what GT is using, but I'm sure it's one of their own branded tubes, to keep the cost reasonable. I have no complaints about the Brick that I need to satisfy with a tube upgrade... it's just pure monkey curiosity.

So... has anyone else tried this yet?

Grooveteer wrote:

(why doesn't everybody just use the metric system? :roll: )

because inches, feet, yards and miles are better than meters.

"The Meters" are a band ...

_____________________
Into self amuse :D

dont forget blocks, miles, furlongs, fortnights, and cubits.

[quote=Bill Cosby] "What's a cubit?"

how about a "Chain" .... 12 yards ?

damn where is my litle black 1950 electronics book, it had all these litle thing in it.