the handsfree thing is usually near the soldering irons, its got a metal base, 2 aligator clips and a magnifying glass. not badly priced at $12.

Hi there I was looking to order from that site and I was wondering how is the cables priced and ordered, feet etc...

I plan on making my own mic cables.

Is it wise to attempt to try make my own patch cables. I'll be using a 1/4" jack patch bay so I'd probaly use a gauge if I remember thats the one thats different then guitar tips.

Appreciate your help. I'm trying to save myself some money...

Cheers..

Hi Dabhoys,

If you order much cable from the U.S. shipping might cost a bit - even by slowboat.

Someone might know of a good bulk dealer closer to you. If not, you might do a search or ask around at Sound on Sound.

If you are running balanced then TRS connectors are what you want for 1/4 inch.

I was going to get them sent to my uncle and bring it home with me during the summer. The prices are so much cheeper.

I'm planning on getting Starquad cables for my installation and regular cables for the mics.

I've some 1/4" jacks to put into the instalation. Is it worth using starquad with these too?

How is the cables ordered on there. What do the prices mean?

Where is the best place to get Neutrik connectors.

I appreciate all your help :)

Cheers...

I think typically people use starquad on mic cables and normal cable for the patch stuff. I use normal (non-quad) cables for everything... but that's me.

One thing I do after making a batch of cables is take my ohm meter and check my cables to see that the resistances all are fairly close to one another and other cables I've built and also to make sure there are no shorts. I also measure the capacitance on the batch of cables between the conductors and make sure its around the same value as other cables. Or you can check whether the total values you get for resistance and capacitance jive with the posted specs. That way no duds slip thru.

One thing i tried and failed to do was reuse cheap connectors, I destroyed 5 mic cables, clipped off the XLRs and was going to put some nice canare between the cheap XLRs.... Well, the cheap XLRs melted when I tried to tin the terminals... so if youre thinking of doing this, just sell your cheapies on eBay and start fresh with the Neutriks and Canare/Mogami.

Dabhoys,

I've seen many testamonials to Cordial cable [not available through U.S. distributors] and also Van Damme. You might research these and find them conveniently in U.K. or Europe.

Neutrik should be available over there as well.

I think Markertek is primary Neutrik distributor in the U.S.

I was looking into Cordial for a while but wasn't willing to order from Europe. It has a very good reputation 'across the pond'.

I appreciate your help. I will look into them.

Cheers Lads...

What are the best sources for bulk Mogami and Neutrik connectors in the US (best price and reliable service) ? I need to build a bunch of balanced 8-channel snakes (XLR - TRS, XLR - XLR, TRS - TRS ). Which flavor / product number of Mogami is the one to use ?

Thanks in advance,

MisterBlue

yessss DIY!!!
when I needed some midi cables...I couldnt believe how much they wanted for something sooo simple to make...Im an engineer by trade so I build many of my toys that I use everyday!!

Hey Mr. Blue
Try Redco dot com (Great prices)
And I believe you want the Mogami 2549 :wink:

MisterBlue wrote: I need to build a bunch of balanced 8-channel snakes (XLR - TRS, XLR - XLR, TRS - TRS ). Which flavor / product number of Mogami is the one to use ?

For 8 channel, you want Mogami W2932. Here's a link to their site:
Here's a clip of me hacking the chorus of Sister Hazel's "So Long" - first without the buffer (but through some bypassed effects) then with the buffer (before same bypassed effects).

You can order the cable and connectors from places like Full Compass.

EricK wrote: you want Mogami W2932

Oh yeah, Thanks EricK.
The 2549 is NOT the snake cable. (like you asked about)
But the W2932 is.

I've only used Mogami (3 conductor) up until this point but I'd like to try out the Canare Star Quad. Just one question where does the fourth wire get soldered?

Skip Switchcraft connectors. Their crappy method of crimping to the cable is some 1920's technology that should be eliminated by now.

To each his own but I prefer Switchcraft. While it's true that the Neutriks do clamp to the cable better that's not always a desireable thing. I once saw a guy trip on some cables during setup and since the cable wouldn't release from the (Neutrik) connector all of the stress went to the mixers XLR's. It destroyed 4 of the panel mounts and the FOH guy was out 4 channels for that show. I'd rather repair a $20 cable on the spot than repair a $3000 console.

I've also seen that cheap little plastic cap on the Neutriks break. A problem I've never had with Switchcraft.

The Neutrik bodies are cast and the tolerances on the body diameter vary quite a bit. I've had a few that I almost broke the mic trying to get them out. Switchcrafts are machined (not cast) to tight tolerances so I've never had this issue.

Neutriks have a plastic core to hold the pins which can melt if you get it too hot when soldering. Switchcrafts have a phenolic core which holds up to the heat much better.

All in all the Switchcrafts are just a higher quality connector. Some of those Switchcrafts from the early part of this century are still working today, let's see if the Neutriks are around 90 years from now.

As always YMMV.

Great stuff Big D.
As always. But do you think we could shorten that 90 year idea down to about, oh say 40 to 50 years. Then I might still be alive to confirm it. :)

Unless of course my experiment on how to live forever works out. :twisted:
Then I will RULE the world! :twisted: hehe

Big_D wrote: I've only used Mogami (3 conductor) up until this point but I'd like to try out the Canare Star Quad. Just one question where does the fourth wire get soldered?

I don't think you've been using "3 Conductor" Mogami. Most likely 2 conductors and a shield. That is what standard mic cable is. Star Quad has 4 conductors and a shield. 2 blue conductors, 2 white conductors, and a shield. You solder the 2 blues to either pin 2 or 3. Then you solder the 2 whites to the other of pin 2 or 3. The shield always gets soldered to pin 1.

I don't think you've been using "3 Conductor" Mogami. Most likely 2 conductors and a shield.

Yeah and I know better. I was trying to relate how many connetions get soldered and I called the sheild a conductor. :oops:

Thanks Eric for catching my goof and setting me straight on the Star Quad.