Nick Veldkamp, post: 438880, member: 49875 wrote: K, Basement in my house i've tried two different rooms. Dell Desktop Windows 7 plugged straight into wall tried powerstrips too, Lexicon alpha interface, xlr mic into line 2/mic channel. Listening back through headphones and sometimes hooking the RCA outs to my stereo system.

I don't have another mic to try the best I can do is rewire it like the reviews said. Or buy a new one which i'm not looking to doing right now.

Nick, it's possible that you've plugged into the same power circuit, even if the outlets are in a completely different room.

You can try a completely different area of the house your sure is on a different breaker, via an extension cord. Ideally you'll want to brefly unplug any refrigerators, and ac/heaters in the house. Anything that has a physical mechanical compressor in in, can cause noise. Usually pops, but any sort of stage noises and hums, can be caused by this.

If you're connfident you can properly re wire the mic, go for it. Although, do one or the other first. Ie either test your power like I described, then try the mic if that doesn't fix it, or vice versa.

The idea is to eliminate the variables one at a time.

Assuming the computer has the proper optimization done, it seems to me the issue is resting either in the mic, or in the electrical power. Keep in mind, that a powerstrip, and power conditioner (fancy rack power strip) do nothing to filter audible noise.

In addition to what I described above, if that doesn't work, try a $1 ground lift plug 3prong -to- 2 prong, and see if that cleans up the noise. This will help identify if there is an electrical issue, or if it's the mic. Keep in mind that this is only a temporary solution, since it leaves your gear un grounded, and vulnerable in that case of an electrical overload or failure.

The only other reputable device that's supposed to aid grounding issues, and protect gear is an isolation transformer. Trip Lite, is the company to go with. This little device gives you your own isolated ground, in theory, eliminating any grounding issues in the house. $150 gets one.

If your in an apartment/shared living area, I understand it may be difficult or impossible to get your neighbors to. Unplug they're fridge and ac's for a few minutes, perhaps they'll let you shut the breakers off brefly while they're at work or something.

kmetal, post: 438883, member: 37533 wrote: Nick, it's possible that you've plugged into the same power circuit, even if the outlets are in a completely different room.

You can try a completely different area of the house your sure is on a different breaker, via an extension cord. Ideally you'll want to brefly unplug any refrigerators, and ac/heaters in the house. Anything that has a physical mechanical compressor in in, can cause noise. Usually pops, but any sort of stage noises and hums, can be caused by this.

If you're connfident you can properly re wire the mic, go for it. Although, do one or the other first. Ie either test your power like I described, then try the mic if that doesn't fix it, or vice versa.

The idea is to eliminate the variables one at a time.

Assuming the computer has the proper optimization done, it seems to me the issue is resting either in the mic, or in the electrical power. Keep in mind, that a powerstrip, and power conditioner (fancy rack power strip) do nothing to filter audible noise.

In addition to what I described above, if that doesn't work, try a $1 ground lift plug 3prong -to- 2 prong, and see if that cleans up the noise. This will help identify if there is an electrical issue, or if it's the mic. Keep in mind that this is only a temporary solution, since it leaves your gear un grounded, and vulnerable in that case of an electrical overload or failure.

The only other reputable device that's supposed to aid grounding issues, and protect gear is an isolation transformer. Trip Lite, is the company to go with. This little device gives you your own isolated ground, in theory, eliminating any grounding issues in the house. $150 gets one.

If your in an apartment/shared living area, I understand it may be difficult or impossible to get your neighbors to. Unplug they're fridge and ac's for a few minutes, perhaps they'll let you shut the breakers off brefly while they're at work or something.

Alright, some of that seems a little excessive but I'll try another room and work on wiring the mic.

Nick Veldkamp, post: 438884, member: 49875 wrote: Alright, some of that seems a little excessive but I'll try another room and work on wiring the mic.

Excessive?

I'm getting ready to stop following this thread. It's called trouble shooting -- and you follow the flowchart by eliminating elements that could be germane to the issue to try to isolate the problem. If you don't understand that concept then I don't think you should even be recording because the need to trouble shoot and follow process and step-through things will never go away. It's basic workflow troubleshooting. Certain kinds of appliances can cause noise. Want to leave that big question unanswered and spend more money and waste more time be skipping steps like this then be my guest. You are not being told anything excessive - you are being told basic specific things to do. So far you've taken our time, plus you've cost a company time and effort with shipping you new product or doing a product exchange etc...

Second -- from now on (if you ever seek help again) list everything you are using upfront. Name and model number. Telling us $10 PYLE dynamic is not the same as telling us the exact model of the mic you are using. I want the model number. That would go for your motherboard too. Telling me it's a dell desktop means nothing - even the model of the computer itself might not be enough - you need to be able to go into device manager and get the name of the motherboard or into a program like CUPID or EVEREST and tell us specifics right down to the revision number. Sometimes these issues are common to a specific revision of a particular motherboard -- and if you knew it and were good at googling, you can sometimes find the issue and resolve it in 10 seconds.

You'll get lots of help here from some pretty pro guys for free - just because that's the kind of guys they are - they like helping people. But you gotta play ball. That means following instructions and giving specifics and please don't ever say something is excessive when you are being directed to do it.

Myself - I still suspect an issue with your computer - be it a bios issue or otherwise. Things to check and question:

1. -- inside your computer -- isolating & shielding your data cables from your power cables

2. -- Latest BIOS version for your motherboard
3. -- cooling your chipsets -- make sure the inside of your computer are "clean" and free of accumulated dust. Do you have a temp monitor? Are the chipsets cool enough? Do you have enough ventilation and cooling happening. (overheated chipsets can cause issues like you describe)
4. DPC - latency issue ---- http://www.thesycon.de/deu/latency_check.shtml Follow the advice given relating to this tool/check
5. Google issues relating to your exact motherboard and motherboard revision - find anything?
6. Is the issue there when you unplug the mic -- if no go borrow another mic. You can even rent one -- your local music store will probably rent out an SM58 for the weekend for $10.

DogsoverLava, post: 438898, member: 48175 wrote: Excessive?

I'm getting ready to stop following this thread. It's called trouble shooting -- and you follow the flowchart by eliminating elements that could be germane to the issue to try to isolate the problem. If you don't understand that concept then I don't think you should even be recording because the need to trouble shoot and follow process and step-through things will never go away. It's basic workflow troubleshooting. Certain kinds of appliances can cause noise. Want to leave that big question unanswered and spend more money and waste more time be skipping steps like this then be my guest. You are not being told anything excessive - you are being told basic specific things to do. So far you've taken our time, plus you've cost a company time and effort with shipping you new product or doing a product exchange etc...

Second -- from now on (if you ever seek help again) list everything you are using upfront. Name and model number. Telling us $10 PYLE dynamic is not the same as telling us the exact model of the mic you are using. I want the model number. That would go for your motherboard too. Telling me it's a dell desktop means nothing - even the model of the computer itself might not be enough - you need to be able to go into device manager and get the name of the motherboard or into a program like CUPID or EVEREST and tell us specifics right down to the revision number. Sometimes these issues are common to a specific revision of a particular motherboard -- and if you knew it and were good at googling, you can sometimes find the issue and resolve it in 10 seconds.

You'll get lots of help here from some pretty pro guys for free - just because that's the kind of guys they are - they like helping people. But you gotta play ball. That means following instructions and giving specifics and please don't ever say something is excessive when you are being directed to do it.

Alright, I posted my problem here to get some insight and tips on fixing this problem, that I have received and I am very grateful for it. When kmetal talked about unplugging my fridge, AC/heater and dealing with the neighbors power, that I found to be a bit excessive for this little project. I apologize if this is wasting your time but you choose to come in here and let it and if it's such a problem then you can stop following it.

Nick Veldkamp, post: 438925, member: 49875 wrote: Alright, I posted my problem here to get some insight and tips on fixing this problem, that I have received and I am very grateful for it. When kmetal talked about unplugging my fridge, AC/heater and dealing with the neighbors power, that I found to be a bit excessive for this little project. I apologize if this is wasting your time but you choose to come in here and let it and if it's such a problem then you can stop following it.

Is this your only takeaway from what I wrote?

DogsoverLava, post: 438926, member: 48175 wrote: Is this your only takeaway from what I wrote?

Nope, I'm only addressing how something I thought was excessive apparently rubbed you the wrong way and how I'm wasting everyone's time I guess.

DogsoverLava, post: 438926, member: 48175 wrote: Is this your only takeaway from what I wrote?

Nick Veldkamp, post: 438927, member: 49875 wrote: Nope, I'm only addressing how something I thought was excessive apparently rubbed you the wrong way and how I'm wasting everyone's time I guess.

That's disappointing.

You've been a little random in the troubleshooting department so far. First thing is to plug the thing into another computer - anything really that has some software to record - borrow one if you don't have one. My bet is that you will find it works fine, putting the blame on your computer. Without a pile of computer bits to experiment with - you may have to waste money. It is possible you just have limited current available on the USB, and your device takes right up to the limit, and your PSU can't cope - but again, without a box of spares, it could be simpler to try and find somebody else who does.

I really think your issue is just incompatibility between your computer and the interface - and that's so annoying. As I mentioned early on - the trouble my friend had made him buy a new interface with it's own PSU - which works perfectly - YET, his so called faulty interface works noise free on my system.

You need to be logical here - not trying random things as they give you bum steers on the real causes.

Fridges and Acs are common problems regarding studio power. in comercial settings, and at home. So any perceived overkill in my thoughts, are just perception. It's nothing out of the ordinary for anyone who's used to dealing with these sorts of things.

We gotta just keep trying things until the source of the problem rears its head.

If your in an apartment, which is sounds like you are, you may just have to deal with it, if the ground lift, ISO transformer, and your own fridges/and ac aren't the problem. If your not able to get your neighbors onboard, it is what it is. The first things are what you have direct control over, your computer, your apartment.

You can always have a proper audio circuit run by an electrician. You can always use a purpose built DAW computer.

Lol I will counter your "that seems excessive" with, "your level of detail, even when asked, is 'hideously vague'". I say this in fun, but truthfully.

youve got to remember that we are really trying to make things into something there not when we use everyday stuff, for pro audio. By this I mean everyday computers, in everyday scenerios like a spare room. So that's why it's luck of the draw, and strange uncommon solutions/tests like, try a 1$ ground lift.

Even the lowest common denominator of pro audio gear is (meant to be) much more sensitive, and sophisticated than a typical home stereo or receiver, which had home entertainment use in mind. So when you introduce pro gear, into a non pro setting, it takes some effort. That's just how it is. I know, because I learned the excessively expensive, time consuming hard way. Now I take the best shortcut- do it proper from the start, and pay the price upfront. And if I can't, I reserve expectations, and just wait and see. For instance, I have no true idea what to except from my own new of the shelf computer, which I am employing as an artistic and records device. I'll be equally surprised if it works well, or if it doesn't.

This is all part of the game. Whether it's a computer crash, or a software update, things will from time to time go wrong, and there's rarely a good time for it to happen.

How bout this one, why don't any of the mics that worked last week, work this week? Discovering this as 500 people pour into the club with a national act 20min from stage. Then discovering each wire connecting the mic to the diaphragm had been cut.

How bout scotch taping them together and saving the show?! Luck and skill converge on these things. But the process of elimination is essential to this. That's what we're doing.

Given the Ethernet card wasn't disabled, the first thing to do is eliminate the possibility that the computer is the source of the problem. As kindly described well already, by some of the fellas here. And double checking you've done each step in the Windows optimization for audio. Ethernet is one of the steps that was missed, so they're could be other.

Beyond that, it's something outside the computer, and electricity is usually the culprit.

Alright, yeah I appreciate all your help guys. Forgive me for being vague but I was thinking it's just one of those problems that have a general fix, seems like a lot of you have dealt with a similar problem. So I will continue to follow all your steps and catch me if i'm being non descriptive.

kmetal, post: 438969, member: 37533 wrote: If your in an apartment, which is sounds like you are, you may just have to deal with it, if the ground lift, ISO transformer, and your own fridges/and ac aren't the problem. If your not able to get your neighbors onboard, it is what it is. The first things are what you have direct control over, your computer, your apartment.

You can always have a proper audio circuit run by an electrician. You can always use a purpose built DAW computer.

I am 19 and live with my parents in a house, my dad is a master electrician so I have no worries he wired the house less than stellar lol. What is the difference in a proper audio circuit and what would a purpose built DAW computer be?

paulears, post: 438949, member: 47782 wrote: It is possible you just have limited current available on the USB, and your device takes right up to the limit, and your PSU can't cope - but again, without a box of spares, it could be simpler to try and find somebody else who does.

If so do you think a certain wattage PSU would work better? I actually have a couple old scrap machines that I can take stuff like power supplies out of and experiment a bit.

Nick Veldkamp, post: 438975, member: 49875 wrote: I am 19 and live with my parents in a house, my dad is a master electrician so I have no worries he wired the house less than stellar lol. What is the difference in a proper audio circuit and what would a purpose built DAW computer be?

I'm 31 and live on my parents couch :)

Forgive me if my terminology is a bit off, I'm not an electrician by trade, I come from a carpentry/builder background a far as trades go. My knowledge of electricity is audio centric, based on my studio build/design interest and gigs.

An audio circuit in general, uses what's known as star grounding, or isolated grounding. The panel would also have a 'balanced load' which means both sides of the panel are drawing equal power from both sides, which means there is no electricity (current?) returning on the nuetral wire. This presence of electricity on the nuetral can cause noises and interference, particularly with things like air conditioners, and refrigerators, because they have a compressor which kicks on and off.

Balanced load and isolated grounding is the ultimate goal. It could be as simple as re orienting the breakers, so the draw is more even on both sides. My cousins home studio, had no isolated grounding, and we got lucky, with no noises. I ran one circuit for the audio gear, and one for the lights/dehumidifier. After 5 years, my uncle added a large central ac unit, and new refiridgerator, and whatever they did, had the result of electrical noise.

Are you by chance using any sort of lighting dimmer in the room your audio gear is plugged into?

Basically isolated grounding, allows all your audio gear, to be grounded to the same point a simple bus bar, and separately from the grounding bar on the main panel, where the rest of the houses electric stuff is connected. So basically any weird occurances and mechanical compressor noises, are doing so on their own grounding/neutral.

Again, I'm not an electrical expert, so the presice how's and whys of an electrical system is a out of my knowdldgbase at present.

But that is absolutely how we do it when considering electrical service for studios. Star grounding, and balanced load, that's the criteria to meet.

In re models, the new panel is tapped into the main service prior to the main panel, and is grounded via its own bus bar, to ONE COMMON GROUND POINT, typically a pipe. Both panels ground bus bars, are grounded at the same point. You just aren't sharing the bus bars between household (dirty) power, and studio (clean power)

I'm not suggesting you jump right away and add an isolated ground setup, unless you can. The first thing is to see if the load is balanced as possible on the main panel.

It is also where an isolation transformer like, this one, https://www.tripplite.com/isolator-series-120v-500w-isolation-transformer-based-power-conditioner-4-outlets~IS500/ can help. This plugs into a standard outlet, and creates a common ground point for your audio gear, isolated from the grounding the rest of the houses stuff is ground to. It does this by breaking the physical ground wires connection, with magnets I belive.

Keep in mind that this isolation transformer is NOT the same thing as your typical furman power conditioner, which is just a fancy surge protector and won't help ground noises, or make any audible improvements to your electricity.

A purpose built DAW computer, is a dedicated computer, picked out, component by component for high performance and compatibility within the realm of audio. They are tested for compatibility on the component level, and with major daws. They are designed, so each part is up to the same standards. The OS is stripped of any un-audio related software and drivers, and all the bios settings, and optimization, is geared for audio performance.

This could be an Apple Mac Pro, or a custom PC you exhaustively research and put together yourself, or something from a company like rain, adk, or one of the other major audio PC makers.

Nobody here is gonna make fun of you for anything about your gear or where you live, so you don't have to be shy. If someone asks about your computer or mic, it's so we can figure out each detail about your setup, and narrow things down.

If your car is squealing when you put the breaks on, it's easy to assess in general, you probably need new break pads. When it becomes how do I change the pads, it's different for each make and model. Same idea here, except with audio, every single rig is different, every single location has unique cirumstances, so the range of possibility is virtually endless.

Keep at it, we will all get to the bottom of this.

-Kyle

Here's some resources (with additional links to resources in the article) that address this issue in PCs
http://www.soundonsound.com/sos/nov04/articles/computerproblems.htm

and this one:
http://www.prosoundweb.com/article/preventing_hum_and_rfi_in_your_studio/

Nick Veldkamp, post: 438879, member: 49875 wrote: $10 PYLE dynamic mic.

Beg, borrow, or steal a Shure SM57 or 58. Plug it into your interface... and use a new XLR cable. Let us know if the high pitched noise is still there, or if it dissipates or disappears.

Nick Veldkamp, post: 438865, member: 49875 wrote: I've heard reviews from this cheap mic that you should re wire the microphone when you get it due to chintzy wires and ground problems.

Self admittedly, you've purchased a cheap - dare I say it - a "garbage" mic - one that I would bet probably has a very low output - which then requires you to crank your preamp to maximum levels to get a solid signal ... and in cheaper preamps/I-O's, this is where you'll often get noise...and to add to that, the mic is also one that you've mentioned reading about requiring a re-wiring right out of the box. Quality sound doesn't start with this approach.

It's also entirely possible that you have more than just one issue happening here - as mentioned by my colleagues - any number of which could be piling onto each other to create the problem, or to make the problem worse.

But starting out at square one with a $10 dollar microphone that everyone is saying requires a re-wiring before you even use it certainly isn't helping things any.

Use a different mic - either a dynamic model as mentioned above, or a condenser that you know doesn't have any problems - you don't need to spend a fortune; Shure SM Series mics are around $100 ( which, if you bought, would then give you a solid, good sounding dynamic that you can use for countless other applications and that will last virtually forever), or ... borrow or rent one for a day... but make sure that you use something tried and true, proven to be of good construction and quality - ( and use a new XLR cable) and let us know what happens.

-d.

DogsoverLava, post: 438986, member: 48175 wrote: Here's some resources (with additional links to resources in the article) that address this issue in PCs
http://www.soundonsound.com/sos/nov04/articles/computerproblems.htm

and this one:
http://www.prosoundweb.com/article/preventing_hum_and_rfi_in_your_studio/

Thanks man. I looked it up and actually have a BIOS update I need to do, not sure if that will make a huge difference though.

kmetal, post: 438977, member: 37533 wrote: I'm 31 and live on my parents couch :)

Forgive me if my terminology is a bit off, I'm not an electrician by trade, I come from a carpentry/builder background a far as trades go. My knowledge of electricity is audio centric, based on my studio build/design interest and gigs.

An audio circuit in general, uses what's known as star grounding, or isolated grounding. The panel would also have a 'balanced load' which means both sides of the panel are drawing equal power from both sides, which means there is no electricity (current?) returning on the nuetral wire. This presence of electricity on the nuetral can cause noises and interference, particularly with things like air conditioners, and refrigerators, because they have a compressor which kicks on and off.

Balanced load and isolated grounding is the ultimate goal. It could be as simple as re orienting the breakers, so the draw is more even on both sides. My cousins home studio, had no isolated grounding, and we got lucky, with no noises. I ran one circuit for the audio gear, and one for the lights/dehumidifier. After 5 years, my uncle added a large central ac unit, and new refiridgerator, and whatever they did, had the result of electrical noise.

Are you by chance using any sort of lighting dimmer in the room your audio gear is plugged into?

Basically isolated grounding, allows all your audio gear, to be grounded to the same point a simple bus bar, and separately from the grounding bar on the main panel, where the rest of the houses electric stuff is connected. So basically any weird occurances and mechanical compressor noises, are doing so on their own grounding/neutral.

Again, I'm not an electrical expert, so the presice how's and whys of an electrical system is a out of my knowdldgbase at present.

But that is absolutely how we do it when considering electrical service for studios. Star grounding, and balanced load, that's the criteria to meet.

In re models, the new panel is tapped into the main service prior to the main panel, and is grounded via its own bus bar, to ONE COMMON GROUND POINT, typically a pipe. Both panels ground bus bars, are grounded at the same point. You just aren't sharing the bus bars between household (dirty) power, and studio (clean power)

I'm not suggesting you jump right away and add an isolated ground setup, unless you can. The first thing is to see if the load is balanced as possible on the main panel.

It is also where an isolation transformer like, this one, https://www.tripplite.com/isolator-series-120v-500w-isolation-transformer-based-power-conditioner-4-outlets~IS500/ can help. This plugs into a standard outlet, and creates a common ground point for your audio gear, isolated from the grounding the rest of the houses stuff is ground to. It does this by breaking the physical ground wires connection, with magnets I belive.

Keep in mind that this isolation transformer is NOT the same thing as your typical furman power conditioner, which is just a fancy surge protector and won't help ground noises, or make any audible improvements to your electricity.

A purpose built DAW computer, is a dedicated computer, picked out, component by component for high performance and compatibility within the realm of audio. They are tested for compatibility on the component level, and with major daws. They are designed, so each part is up to the same standards. The OS is stripped of any un-audio related software and drivers, and all the bios settings, and optimization, is geared for audio performance.

This could be an Apple Mac Pro, or a custom PC you exhaustively research and put together yourself, or something from a company like rain, adk, or one of the other major audio PC makers.

Nobody here is gonna make fun of you for anything about your gear or where you live, so you don't have to be shy. If someone asks about your computer or mic, it's so we can figure out each detail about your setup, and narrow things down.

If your car is squealing when you put the breaks on, it's easy to assess in general, you probably need new break pads. When it becomes how do I change the pads, it's different for each make and model. Same idea here, except with audio, every single rig is different, every single location has unique cirumstances, so the range of possibility is virtually endless.

Keep at it, we will all get to the bottom of this.

-Kyle

Yeah definitely we'll get to the bottom of it. Next week ill really be at it, quite busy this week finishing up school so forgive the lack of feedback.

DonnyThompson, post: 438995, member: 46114 wrote: Beg, borrow, or steal a Shure SM57 or 58. Plug it into your interface... and use a new XLR cable. Let us know if the high pitched noise is still there, or if it dissipates or disappears.

Self admittedly, you've purchased a cheap - dare I say it - a "garbage" mic - one that I would bet probably has a very low output - which then requires you to crank your preamp to maximum levels to get a solid signal ... and in cheaper preamps/I-O's, this is where you'll often get noise...and to add to that, the mic is also one that you've mentioned reading about requiring a re-wiring right out of the box. Quality sound doesn't start with this approach.

It's also entirely possible that you have more than just one issue happening here - as mentioned by my colleagues - any number of which could be piling onto each other to create the problem, or to make the problem worse.

But starting out at square one with a $10 dollar microphone that everyone is saying requires a re-wiring before you even use it certainly isn't helping things any.

Use a different mic - either a dynamic model as mentioned above, or a condenser that you know doesn't have any problems - you don't need to spend a fortune; Shure SM Series mics are around $100 ( which, if you bought, would then give you a solid, good sounding dynamic that you can use for countless other applications and that will last virtually forever), or ... borrow or rent one for a day... but make sure that you use something tried and true, proven to be of good construction and quality - ( and use a new XLR cable) and let us know what happens.

-d.

That's part of the problem, this is a real tight low budget project i'm just doing for fun, the whole setup didn't even cost me $100. I've purchased a new mic cable and that made a huge difference, what I'm focusing on now is the issue with the computer and power situations. Personally I think the mic sounds really good, When I use it through my just my interface it sounds awesome, when I open the DAW and start recording it goes south with that high pitch noise.

Ah - new info. You changed the mic cable and it made a huge difference? That isn't supposed to happen - but it can, if the cable has it's pin 1 connected to the metalwork and the chassis. If the noise changed then the grounding issue suggested by others needs examining. Something physical is wrong here.

paulears, post: 439013, member: 47782 wrote: Ah - new info. You changed the mic cable and it made a huge difference? That isn't supposed to happen - but it can, if the cable has it's pin 1 connected to the metalwork and the chassis. If the noise changed then the grounding issue suggested by others needs examining. Something physical is wrong here.

I may have over exaggerated when I said huge difference, it's a lot better than the last cable cause the last one would buzz all over when I touched it and the noise would get louder. So with the combination of a different USB cable and good xlr it's definitely an improvement. The new USB made the most difference though.

What about going into the music store you bought your interface from and borrowing/renting an sm58? It's not about how good this mic sounds -- it's about eliminating the mic from the chain and seeing if the problem is still there ---- mic gone problem gone - problem is mic. Mic gone, problem persists we can go on to find the issue.

DogsoverLava, post: 439015, member: 48175 wrote: What about going into the music store you bought your interface from and borrowing/renting an sm58? It's not about how good this mic sounds -- it's about eliminating the mic from the chain and seeing if the problem is still there ---- mic gone problem gone - problem is mic. Mic gone, problem persists we can go on to find the issue.

Yeah, I bought the gear on amazon but I have a couple ways I could get my hands on a 57 or 58, the thing is I wouldn't be able to keep it longer than a couple days or so. SO if it turns out to be the mic I'll have to make an investment or live with borrowing one.

Okay so um.. I just fixed it. It was indeed the microphone, so I found out about the wiring on a customer review like I told you all, I looked it up and found a video that explained it perfectly.

. So he explains that the microphone comes unbalanced to use the xlr to 1/4 that comes with it and we have to rewire it balanced so it will work with a regular xlr. I re-wire it and the noise has disappeared, the input volume is perfect as well, I did a test where I set up a drum loop and did some quiet talking over that and it was coming through very clean and loud, I plan on recording fat heavy guitars with it so there will be no problems what so ever. It evens works perfectly on my laptop now, no high pitch annoying ring. Thank you all very much I am sure the tips you all gave me had their help in the matter too.

Great!
Here's another link I stumbled on yesterday that talks a bit about unbalanced vs balanced and issues with noise.
http://www.rane.com/note151.html

Awesome, that is so cool that you figured it out!!! Congrats! Now the fun part, making tunes!!!!!!

Yeah it's crazy along this whole process I've been stumbling across all these posts about making sure you use balanced cables for everything but I thought I was, and it was a little problem in the microphone.

DogsoverLava, post: 439020, member: 48175 wrote: Great!
Here's another link I stumbled on yesterday that talks a bit about unbalanced vs balanced and issues with noise.
http://www.rane.com/note151.html

Yep, the article talks about the "pin 1 problem" and that was exactly it.

I love that video - where the guy has a soldering iron with hardly any tip left, and wastes his time marking the red cable as hot, that he then removes from the other end! Sonically, there was nothing wrong with the old cables - and no real benefit to swapping them. In fact, his dubious quality soldering at both ends probably causes more issues than replacing the cable solves.

In addition - using a razor blade to strip wire in this way is totally stupid! He could have used his rusty pliers, and maybe invested in an elastic band to keep the jaws shut rather then tape!

paulears, post: 439042, member: 47782 wrote: I love that video - where the guy has a soldering iron with hardly any tip left, and wastes his time marking the red cable as hot, that he then removes from the other end! Sonically, there was nothing wrong with the old cables - and no real benefit to swapping them. In fact, his dubious quality soldering at both ends probably causes more issues than replacing the cable solves.

In addition - using a razor blade to strip wire in this way is totally stupid! He could have used his rusty pliers, and maybe invested in an elastic band to keep the jaws shut rather then tape!

Yeah I had a feeling changing out the wires really wouldn't wouldn't do anything to the quality but getting the jumper off was the main fix.

In all seriousness - I suspect that most people with a mic wired like that was will never notice the difference. Unbalancing a mic removes the common mode noise reduction, and throws away half the signal - so 3dB gone. In practice the loss of output level is a gnat's whisker on the gain knob, and the loss of the rejection will only be noticed with long cable runs in RF noisy environments. Audio quality won't give it away. These mics, and I'm sure I have one somewhere sound different to the SM57 they're styled to mimic - but it's the sort of difference that is in many ways just a personal preference. All mics have a different character - that's why we have so many, and this one really suffers from the impression some internet sources sprout - suggesting that a bit of re-wiring makes a sonic difference. Hi-Fi people might be swayed with the sonic benefits of changing cable - but it's silly. The pure physics of this says that a few inches of wire in these designs simply adds to the many feet wound in the coil in the capsule - and that is thin, fragile, copper. This is part of the sound character forming components - the connecting wires are not. If you have 30 feet of mic cable on the other end - the notion that a few inches makes a difference makes it even more ludicrous!

paulears, post: 439054, member: 47782 wrote: In all seriousness - I suspect that most people with a mic wired like that was will never notice the difference. Unbalancing a mic removes the common mode noise reduction, and throws away half the signal - so 3dB gone.

It's a laughably bad YouTube video. However, in case anyone stumbles on this thread, really the only instance where grounding either of the signal wires from a dynamic mic will halve the amplitude (it's a 6dB loss) of the received signal is when a centre-tap on the output of an impedance-matching transformer already forms a ground connection. This wiring configuration is confined to very old mics, and is rare these days as it would short out any phantom power that happened to be present on that pre-amp input.

Boswell, post: 439088, member: 29034 wrote: It's a laughably bad YouTube video. However, in case anyone stumbles on this thread, really the only instance where grounding either of the signal wires from a dynamic mic will halve the amplitude (it's a 6dB loss) of the received signal is when a centre-tap on the output of an impedance-matching transformer already forms a ground connection. This wiring configuration is confined to very old mics, and is rare these days as it would short out any phantom power that happened to be present on that pre-amp input.

Is that referred to as something running "one legged". A guy I assisted used that phrase to describe a 414uls that had weak output.

kmetal, post: 439095, member: 37533 wrote: Is that referred to as something running "one legged". A guy I assisted used that phrase to describe a 414uls that had weak output.

I don't think so. It's not a phrase I use, but I have always taken it to mean using just the +ve or -ve pin of a balanced output when the centre-tap is grounded. This would be a wiring configuration employed when going balanced -> unbalanced and you don't have a balun transformer available. If you don't use a transformer it gives 6dB loss.

A variant on the technique is also one I sometimes use with a standard insert cable to convert the S channel of an M-S pair into L and R mono signals.