What would you like us to do?

You need to do a bit of troubleshooting. Here are some things to try...

Plug them into a different electrical sockets. Not each speaker into it's own but use ones different from the ones you are currently using.

Use a different source. If you are plugging a mixer output into them, try plugging something else into them.

Use different cables. Use different input cables. Change the cable that goes from one speaker to the other.

Switch the inputs you are using. Try using the front inputs instead of the rear ones.

Toggle the Bass Boost switch.

If you do all of that, and still have the same problem, return the speakers. Or just return the speakers without doing any of that.

I was wondering if anyone knew what could possibly be wrong with them. none of the above trouble shooting things worked.

send them back.

yea, thats what i'm working on trying to do, but on otherwords, i just felt the back of the left speaker with has the power supply for the 2 in it, and it was burning hot, i almost burned my hand.

removed

J-MADD wrote: send them back.

I second this suggestion.

You could have a fire on your hands if what you say is true about the back of the speaker being too warm to touch.

The speakers could be set up for the wrong AC voltage and you may have fried the power supplies.

Most speakers that are mass produced are checked individually by playing some music or tones though them for a brief period of time this maybe less than 30 seconds per speaker and it may be done by robotic control so if this is something that happened over time the QC would never catch the problem. Suggest contacting the manufacture first and then take them back to where you bought them from and ask for a new pair. (make sure to check on the back if they are set up for the proper voltage for where you live. Some speakers made for the Asian markets are set for 100 volts AC and if you pump in 120 VAC (the American standard voltage) you could fry them fairly quickly and the fuse might not blow. Who knows you might have gotten speakers designed for a different part of the world. It has happened more than once to me and I am sure it happens all the time.

Let us know what happens...

From your description, I believe there is another problem here. You indicated the back of the speaker was extremely hot. I listened to your song that you have posted on the Internet. There is a serious problem I'm hearing in your recording that may be a fault in your console? There are these continuing low-frequency popping noises, that I found reminiscent of mixer problems. This could be due to an " DC offset" problem on the mixer? What this means is, your mixer is outputting a DC voltage, in addition to the musical AC voltage. This may be causing a serious problem to self powered monitors, and thus your problems? Disconnect them immediately from your mixer! Now power them up, without an audio input. If they sit there quietly and keep their cool, you can probably bet, you have a problem with your mixer? The Company may not honor their warranty if the problem is with your mixer.

Rock it scientist
Ms. Remy Ann David

Thanks remy, i'll do that right now.

it would make sense to me that the back pannel would naturally get a little warm cause of the power supply inside of it, but not as hot as it had gotten. am i not right?

You are absolutely right! Although, under heavy usage for any power amplifier, they can get remarkably hot. But if you're not hearing anything and it's getting that I do definitely have a problem.

Not only could there be a DC offset problem as I mentioned, some IC chips sometimes will begin to oscillate when they go bad but their oscillations frequently appear in the ultrasonic range, similar to a bias oscillator for an analog recorder, at or near 50,000 hertz and higher. That problem will frequently cause tweeters to blow out quickly, generally with an unmistakable groan followed by a smell/odor of the speaker voice coil melting. The quite previously popular Signetics 5534 IC chip Op-Amp was well-known to fail in such a manner and was used extensively in the audio business, particularly in mixers. That is not to say that they were not/are not good-quality devices, they are and should not necessarily be upgraded/replaced with anything other than an identical replacement unit.

Unfortunately, many pieces of equipment have been severely damaged by such failures. And with such failures, if the equipment that failed had no internal problem, you are likely to receive a bill unless they feel pity on your poor failed equipment but you certainly want to discover what the problem may be? My secondary recommendation would be to take a well-known working device like a standalone CD player and connected directly to your powered monitors. You might find that you are lucky in that they are working? Some of these devices to have good internal protective circuitry that can detect problems and protect itself?

Remember, if you play with electrons, you can get burnt.
Ms. Remy Ann David