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Greetings,

I'm thinking about using a car amplifier in my house.
It's a 12v 600w amp.
So I would need a 12v power supply that can handle a max of 50amps, just over 35amps rms. My mains are 240v 50hz.
I've thought about using car batteries, but that wouldn't be all that portable and can you just hook up the battery between a crap transformer and the amp and let the battery act like a huge capacitor? I'm not really sure if the potential difference put across the battery would be put across the transformer causing it to melt. I know how I can find out but mum hates it when I burn the paint.
Did I mention I'm pov? Do I need to, I'm trying to hook up a car amp in my (mums) house... That aside, I'm keen to get this sub working. And all I can find are $300 upwards... I don't have a budget, I also don't have $300.
Any ideas or suggestions are welcome.

Thanks.

Comments

anonymous Thu, 07/10/2008 - 23:43

Cucco wrote: 2 questions -
Why
and
Why???

Well, I'm not really sure, but I think it's because it's only a small step from scorching the wall before you burn the house down.

And...

A friend of mine just got a new car and has no where to put this enormous sub and amp. I'm keen to see if it makes the bass more punchy and loud.
Currently we use a Roland Keyboard amp for the bass guitar.
So, this should be an improvement. :P

I haven't seen a 35amp nominal PSU for a computer... I will look about. Cheers.

Boswell Fri, 07/11/2008 - 04:25

Greener wrote: Greetings,

I'm thinking about using a car amplifier in my house.
It's a 12v 600w amp.
So I would need a 12v power supply that can handle a max of 50amps, just over 35amps rms. My mains are 240v 50hz.
I've thought about using car batteries, but that wouldn't be all that portable and can you just hook up the battery between a crap transformer and the amp and let the battery act like a huge capacitor? I'm not really sure if the potential difference put across the battery would be put across the transformer causing it to melt. I know how I can find out but mum hates it when I burn the paint.
Did I mention I'm pov? Do I need to, I'm trying to hook up a car amp in my (mums) house... That aside, I'm keen to get this sub working. And all I can find are $300 upwards... I don't have a budget, I also don't have $300.
Any ideas or suggestions are welcome.

Thanks.

A 600W rating for a car audio amp is not what people in sound engineering would call 600W - it's a marketing term.

Nevertheless, here's a link to a $120 12V 40A supply, which would be quite enough juice. The same unit is available from a number of different suppliers. Make sure your d.c. wires are good'n'thick.
http://www.mpja.com/prodinfo.asp?number=16751+PS

Kapt.Krunch Fri, 07/11/2008 - 05:03

I'm keen to see if it makes the bass more punchy and loud.
Currently we use a Roland Keyboard amp for the bass guitar.
So, this should be an improvement. :P

An improvement? I doubt it. Not worth the time, trouble or even $5 to do this, but after you do, please report back with what you've learned.

Kapt.Krunch :wink:

anonymous Fri, 07/11/2008 - 08:55

It's not the size of the amp, it's what you do with it.

Thanks Boswell. That's a definite front runner atm.
I have some fat as cables for the power, like as thick as your little finger. And some beefy speaker cable.

The Roland is cactus, going to use the line out on the back and this as the power amp and speaker.
I will test with a car battery before buying the PS.

Cheers.

bent Sat, 07/12/2008 - 00:05

I have some fat as cables for the power, like as thick as your little finger. And some beefy speaker cable.

I have some fat, as the grease dripping from under the bacon in the skillet.

Sadly, the wires in your wall aren't that thick, nor are they any thicker than 12 gauge 3 wire, if that, I'd imagine...

:lol:

Thomas W. Bethel Sat, 07/12/2008 - 03:57

Re: 12v power supply

Greener wrote: Greetings,

I'm thinking about using a car amplifier in my house.
It's a 12v 600w amp.
So I would need a 12v power supply that can handle a max of 50amps, just over 35amps rms. My mains are 240v 50hz.
I've thought about using car batteries, but that wouldn't be all that portable and can you just hook up the battery between a crap transformer and the amp and let the battery act like a huge capacitor? I'm not really sure if the potential difference put across the battery would be put across the transformer causing it to melt. I know how I can find out but mum hates it when I burn the paint.
Did I mention I'm pov? Do I need to, I'm trying to hook up a car amp in my (mums) house... That aside, I'm keen to get this sub working. And all I can find are $300 upwards... I don't have a budget, I also don't have $300.
Any ideas or suggestions are welcome.

Thanks.

Dynaudio made a pair of audio amps that ran off of batteries. There are hi fi golden ears who run their amplifiers off batteries saying that they can hear the difference when their stuff is connected to the wall and when it is running on batteries.

The amp, unless it is running in class A mode will not be drawing 35 amps all of the time only when it is called on to deliver maximum power.

The 40 amp power supply shown is a switching type power supply and may be great for things like computers but audio gear may not be too happy with it. Auto power amplifiers are use to a very pure source of DC coming from the battery and are not designed to have choppy DC coming from a switching power supply so you may have to put some giant caps across the supply to do some filtering.

Considering all the problems I honestly think you would be better with a conventional power line driven amplifier. YMMV

If you decide to run your amplifier off a battery then I would get a deep discharge marine battery as they are use to being drained and recharged multiple times and are very robust. The only problem is that they can cost double or triple what a conventional battery costs.

Best of luck!

taxman Sat, 07/12/2008 - 08:29

There is no problem doing what you want. You could use a switching supply or a conventional transformer based supply. Your home conventional amp isn't any different. You plug it into the wall, but the internal power supply converts the power to 5 or 12 volts DC to run the amp. Tube amps had a 6 volt supply for heater filaments, and 300 volts DC or more for the tubes. In electronics, nothihng actually runs at 120 or in your case, 240 AC.

Early switching supplies were a little noisy but I don't think that is a problem anymore. They are standard equipment with amateur radio operators who are very picky about their equipment. Unlike the golden ear hi fi goofs, they actualy have the test equipment to see what is going on at each stage of amplification.

8 or 10 gauge wire should be fine.

RemyRAD Sat, 07/12/2008 - 21:48

So, this is for your control room?? You want a car stereo amplifier for your control? You must be quite a farmer? Mushroom farmer. I'll send you a power supply if you send me some of those magic mushrooms you've been eating. More power! Less filling! More power! Less filling! Your speakers are blown. Your speakers are blown. Your speakers are blown. And your record is stuck.

I'd like to record directly into my brain since that's where I will be listening to things.
Ms. Remy Ann David

Thomas W. Bethel Sun, 07/13/2008 - 13:56

Greener wrote: Soaking up the info guys, thanks heaps.

Putting together an idea atm, got a few various PSU's from computers laying about.

If I took 3 or 4 200w PSU's, put them parallel into one of [[url=http://[/URL]="http://wwww.electro…"] these[/]="http://wwww.electro…"] these[/] am I asking for a house fire?

No but you might take down the whole electric grid. :?

Why not do it the correct way???

You can't be that broke.

anonymous Sun, 07/13/2008 - 23:46

AwedOne wrote: [
Prone to Overly Verbosing? Presently On Valium? Pre-occupied with Odd Ventures? (that would be me)

What does POV mean? I googled it but all I got was Point-Of-View

ROFL.

POV = Poverty

Many options are still being explored.

Thanks for all the ideas, and a place to sound off ideas.

I will post examples when I can.

anonymous Thu, 07/24/2008 - 07:22

Well, after some actual looking and not just imagining.
The original amp we use is a Fender Keyboard amp. Not a Roland. It's still working although the limiter in it keeps kicking in and being a pane.

Anyways, hooked the sub up today. Was a fun bit of soldering getting clips and wires all ready. Ended up using the battery from my car. That was extra fun when I lost the nut used on the retaining strap... Anyways... Found a new one, all good in the end.

I recorded a bunch of tests. All of it was done next to the drum kit so there is some ringing and snare rattle... Annoying.

this

Sub is just that, just the sub.

Amp is the Fender with a tiny amount of the sub.

I only did 30 mins testing, and most of it sounds good. Will do more soon. Both amps at the same time really gives some meat and low end to the room.
Dunno if I prefer single tracking the bass with both amps, have to find a sweet spot with no phase issues.

Recorded with an SM57 btw.
Playing credit to Bean Cassidy. Technical Shoutout to Pete Elwood.
Car started afterwards too.

Thoughts?

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