I'm posting this here only because of higher traffic and quicker replies than on the Keyboards or even Roland forums on this site. Also because I don't have much time to resolve this issue, a deadline is approaching and I need this sound!
The goal:
To get a Rhodes patch similar to the one in the VE-RD1 card that was fitted into Roland's A-70 and A-90 controller keyboards a few years ago.
Those who know these models and know the quality of the sound, you know what I mean, they're absolutely the most breathtaking Wurlys and Stage Rhodes I've ever heard short of the real thing.
The Problem:
I have a Roland xp-30. Great synths, tons of sounds, blah, blah, blah. The Rhodes patches, however, all sound like ice cubes dropping in a highball. Digital, sterile, etc.
Once I heard the Rhodes patch on my friend's A-90, I was on a hunt to find the closest thing possible.
I checked out the XV-3080, the 5080, the XV-88, which all have the same sound engine and similar patches and although they're great sounding modules, I was still let down by the Rhodes patches. Closer and warmer than my xp-30 could ever deliver, but not quite the same as on that VE-RD1 card.
The alternatives:
Expansion boards...
I've never heard any of the sounds from the JV-series cards. There are two that contain a number of Rhodes and I'm hoping to strike a lucky chord in there.
'Keyboards of the 60's and 70's' and the 'Expansion Piano' cards are the ones. Again, no store would open one up for me to hear so I'm hoping to hear from users/Roland experts out there whi can guide me the right way.
other options.
I'm willing to sell this XP-30 if none of the JV-cards will provide what I'm looking for. I'll gladly dish out for a XV-3080, 5080 or even the new sleek 5050, provided that one of these newer SRX expansion cards can hopefully deliver the goods.
All I want is a fine Rhodes patch, that's all. No ahmmering bells, no DX7 tones, no. Full, thick, warm-vibrato Rhodes just like on the card I mentioned above.
Thanks everyone for your help.
pk
Comments
Howdy If the store won't open it up, ask them what they're re
Howdy
If the store won't open it up, ask them what they're return policy is. If they won't take it back, find someone who will.
Or, buy the synth with the sound you want. Lots of people have an instrument they only use for that "one sound".
Or, buy a real Rhodes, they're not that expensive. Alternatively, hire one when you need it.
Originally posted by Nate Tschetter: Or, buy a real Rhodes, t
Originally posted by Nate Tschetter:
Or, buy a real Rhodes, they're not that expensive. Alternatively, hire one when you need it.
That's what I'm thinking, I'm actually watching a bunch on Ebay. The only thing I wonder is how different sounding is the Mark I from the Mark II? Also, does the year impact the sound much? Meaning, a Stage '73 vs. '88?
I just don't know much about the Rhodes history but they seem rather simple to get to grips with.
pk
Originally posted by Krou: Originally posted by Nate Tschetter
Originally posted by Krou:
Originally posted by Nate Tschetter:Or, buy a real Rhodes, they're not that expensive. Alternatively, hire one when you need it.
The only thing I wonder is how different sounding is the Mark I from the Mark II? Also, does the year impact the sound much? Meaning, a Stage '73 vs. '88?
pkI may not understand your question, but the number after the model style refers to the number of keys on the instrument (73 keys or 88 keys). It does not refer to the year in which it was manufactured (i.e. 1973 or 1988). The two main body styles are stage (no built in speaker, stands on four detachable metal posts/legs) and suitcase (keyboard sits on a large rectangular base, which contains a stereo power amp/speaker system.)
A Mk I sounds usually softer plus it has a rounded top. It also
A Mk I sounds usually softer plus it has a rounded top. It also looks cooler and the keys are less heavy than on my Mk II 73.
go here http://www.fenderrhodes.org
Beware, a rhodes is big, heavy and needs care. But its a rhodes :)
Alos, if its only the sound you after, try the Emagic VSTi rhodes. Its arguably the best rhodes simulation you can get.
Cheers,
stefan
Something else to watch out for, especially if you buy a Rhodes
Something else to watch out for, especially if you buy a Rhodes (or anything else, sight-unseen) There is (strangely enough, coming from me) absolutely NO exageration in the following story: I was at the (almost) local Guitar Center about 3 weeks ago, waiting for someone to answer some questions (and answering several) when one of the newer guys in keyboards came over, apologised for not getting there sooner, then asked if I was in a hurry because he hadn't had a break yet and wanted to look at a keyboard a guy had out in the parking lot. When he came back in, I found out he had been looking at a Rhodes (no idea which one) -
here's the point of the story: The guy wanting to sell it had it in the back of a pickup (uncovered), it had just finished raining, and the GC kid said there was water standing all over the Rhodes, and did I think he should buy it? He said the guy wanted $300 for it. I told him he should just GIVE ME the $300 and we'd both be much happier in the long run - me for obvious reasons, and him because I would have saved him many hours of grief and probably several more dollars, with still no playable keyboard in sight. He didn't buy the Rhodes, but didn't give me the money. (Ungrateful jerk...)So, just a long-winded way of saying, Caveat Emptor, PK - Look twice, buy once... Steve
There are some really nice electric piano variations on the keyb
There are some really nice electric piano variations on the keyboards of the 60's/70's card. My favorite patch from the card is a Wurlitzer piano one, I think it's called "Wurly". Has that nice overdriven/distortion bite when you hit it hard that makes for some very expressive playing.
I know a lot of keyboard players have ended up using it in my studio after auditioning a ton of other patches.
I agree that a lot of sounds don't seem to survive intact when transplanted from one box to the next. My theory is that some of it may have to do with the velocity info being sent from the controller - a different curve may make the patch respond very differently.