click me!

right on. thats the one i grabbed the other day. i assume that there are the plugins available for it that i mentioned too? Im trying to remember all the terms from the period about 10 years ago when i played more in this area

sorry, i should have mentioned that i already had ardour. got it from a fair amount of the googlez. Im not a newb to forums generally speaking, and i apologize for that omission

click me

Thank you for the links and understanding of a potentially stupid question!!

Are you planning on recording tracks yourself, or just mixing pre existing audio?

DonnyThompson, post: 450784, member: 46114 wrote: Are you planning on recording tracks yourself, or just mixing pre existing audio?

just mixing pre-recorded audio for personal use. I want to isolate the bass tracks of electronic music songs, put a high pass on it to eliminate stuff over around 100 hz, make a duplicate of that track to play simultaneously with the original but drop that bass track to a specific frequency range thats best suited for my car. Many songs i like have decent bass, but not the frequency range that my car is tuned to

Sounds like you have a plan.
:)

DonnyThompson, post: 450787, member: 46114 wrote: Sounds like you have a plan.
:)

yeah, im just not 100% on how to go about it LOL!! I found the hpf/lpf and eq's, but not an octave shifter

If it's very low rumble you want, you could use a tone generator, make it play 20 or 30 hz (depending on what the 'car needs' lol) and use a gate that will make the frequency through only at certain times in the song (if tuned correctly when a bass drum or bass hit)

Tone generator and gates are easier to find and may already be included in your software...
All that tone generator does is play the frequency of your choice.
The gate looks at the track for a volume to cross a set threashold volume and will open (let sound through) then when the audio is below that volume it will shut it down.
Where it gets tricky is that you can route another track to it via sidechain fonctions and make it react to another audio source.

If the gate thing is too complicated, you could automate the volume of the Subfrequency track to let it through when you want.

In my opinion, it will be far more effective to turn up those car subwoofer. Octavers are often squeeshy and won't give a very defined sound and my not give the looked for frequencies anyway...

pcrecord, post: 450790, member: 46460 wrote: If it's very low rumble you want, you could use a tone generator, make it play 20 or 30 hz (depending on what the 'car needs' lol) and use a gate that will make the frequency through only at certain times in the song (if tuned correctly when a bass drum or bass hit)

Tone generator and gates are easier to find and may already be included in your software...
All that tone generator does is play the frequency of your choice.
The gate looks at the track for a volume to cross a set threashold volume and will open (let sound through) then when the audio is below that volume it will shut it down.
Where it gets tricky is that you can route another track to it via sidechain fonctions and make it react to another audio source.

If the gate thing is too complicated, you could automate the volume of the Subfrequency track to let it through when you want.

In my opinion, it will be far more effective to turn up those car subwoofer. Octavers are often squeeshy and won't give a very defined sound and my not give the looked for frequencies anyway...

understood, and thank you. The problem with turning up the cars subwoofer is that im already running 2200 watts (yes, an actual 2200 watts) from an amp that draws 200 amperes at car voltage (between 12.4 and 14.4 volts) running to 2 12"s and the bottom end of my system is about maxed out based on trunk space and alternator output. So, without changing a ton of physical parts, im relegated to finding frequencies that my system likes more than others (this is based on the acoustic properties of my given car, tuning of the box in accordance to the parameters of the car etc etc) and the frequencies im thinking its liking the most is around 38 hz. So, this is why im seeking this. There are many songs i like, but dont fall into the range of bass that my car likes. I do plan on building a different box with higher output, but the enclosure already allows for playability down into the 10 hz range (not audible, but itll do it). Anyways, for these reasons, a tone generator wouldnt be ideal, at least it doesnt seem like it would unless i could find a way to sidechain it to match the beats already playing in the song im messing with. Do you have any advice on that? I have a sub in my house that i can easily test the results on connected to the av system that i run on said computer as its dedicated audio system (desktop pc, wireless keyboard and mouse hooked to my home theater)

first off to address the ops question, wouldn't it be better to get your system to sound like you want with all content instead of having to custom record stuff to make your system sound right?

now to the rant part; this is one of my pet peeves. expensive car audio is the ultimate in stupidity, designed to separate stupid people from their money.

the idea you can generate an honest 2200 watts with a 12 volt system is a lot of hocus pocus and that's the reason we all reject audio devices that run from 12 volt wall warts. you need volts and amperes. JOULES man! JOULES!

cars are the very worst environment to listen to audio in, being the listener is surrounded by glass and other reflective elements intermixed with absorption that is not always in the right place and non symmetry at the listening position(s). then there's road and engine noise.

i personally find it to be rude when some ill mannered bling bling flaunting show off jerk drives through my neighborhood on 20's with a sub woofer blasting so loud it rattles all the windows for a mile. if you want to hear that sh*t fine but don't shove it down my throat. btw, i'm not impressed. all it takes is money and the willingness to throw said money down the drain.

there are plenty of sites that cater to the silliness of audio systems in a car. this place is for recording music.

Kurt Foster, post: 450792, member: 7836 wrote: first off to address the ops question, wouldn't it be better to get your system to sound like you want with all content instead of having to custom record stuff to make your system sound right?

now to the rant part; this is one of my pet peeves. expensive car audio is the ultimate in stupidity, designed to separate stupid people from their money.

the idea you can generate an honest 2200 watts with a 12 volt system is a lot of hocus pocus and that's the reason we all reject audio devices that run from 12 volt wall warts. you need volts and amperes. JOULES man! JOULES!

cars are the very worst environment to listen to audio in, being the listener is surrounded by glass and other reflective elements intermixed with absorption that is not always in the right place. then there's road and engine noise.

i personally find it to be rude when some ill mannered bling bling flaunting show off jerk drives through my neighborhood on 20's with a sub woofer blasting so loud it rattles all the windows for a mile. if you want to hear that sh*t fine but don't shove it down my throat. btw, i'm not impressed. all it takes is money and the willingness to throw said money down the drain.

there are plenty of sites that cater to the silliness of audio systems in a car. this place is for recording music.

condescending much? I was merely explaining what purpose i was wanting to do this for, and a what, why, where seemed to be like a good idea to help people without such a negative attitude about car audio point me in the right direction. First off, wattage is what the woofers use, and thats derived from volts x amperes. So, whatever trip your on, you might wanna get that looked into.

I listen to music in my car because i have a family and its not always ideal for me to crank it up at home. There is a segment of car audio competitions beyond SPL btw... Go listen to any good SQ car and youll likely shut up...

To your last statement, i only ever turn it up OUTSIDE of neighborhoods, and to insinuate that everyone interested in loud music in their car does it in front of your house is about as stupid as the rest of your post. Not to mention that people who do it right use a lot of sound deadening material.

In sumamtion, youre most likely in the area of a butthurt troll.... go back under your bridge.

youdoofus, post: 450793, member: 50627 wrote: condescending much? I was merely explaining what purpose i was wanting to do this for, and a what, why, where seemed to be like a good idea to help people without such a negative attitude about car audio point me in the right direction. First off, wattage is what the woofers use, and thats derived from volts x amperes. So, whatever trip your on, you might wanna get that looked into.

I listen to music in my car because i have a family and its not always ideal for me to crank it up at home. There is a segment of car audio competitions beyond SPL btw... Go listen to any good SQ car and youll likely shut up...

To your last statement, i only ever turn it up OUTSIDE of neighborhoods, and to insinuate that everyone interested in loud music in their car does it in front of your house is about as stupid as the rest of your post. Not to mention that people who do it right use a lot of sound deadening material.

In sumamtion, youre most likely in the area of a butthurt troll.... go back under your bridge.

oh yeah? i guess you told me. lol. and i really don't care what your excuses are.

youdoofus, post: 450793, member: 50627 wrote: First off, wattage is what the woofers use, and thats derived from volts x amperes. So, whatever trip your on, you might wanna get that looked into.

we've all heard this nonsense from manufacturers who want to use low volt wall warts instead of building a quiet power supply. it's bullsh*t. you need volts and amps. any process you pass electricity through to "transform" it from one stage to another will involve inherent losses. if your argument was the truth why do we see the makers of high end equipment spending so much time and energy on building power supplies? why doesn't Manley or UA just use a wall wart like a pos RNP does? plug your pos car into an extension cord attached to proper mains power and then you've got something.
i've been a contributer here for years. go away.

Kurt Foster, post: 450794, member: 7836 wrote: oh yeah? i guess you told me. lol. i've been a contributer here for years. go away.

and people like you are the reason that forums can get a bad rap. You have a preconceived idea that everyone who listens to loud music in a car does it in your driveway, which is not the case. To that end, i just had to tell the older sons friend to turn their stereo down when the are in my neighborhood and banished him from our house, so theres always that. Some of us only bang on our equipment in ares where the law allows, and not to the chagrin of people trying to just live their lives. All im trying to do is get some more enjoyment out of my system while driving on roads where its perfectly legal to do so. If you want to offer up helpful advice, cool. If not and you just want to spout off about how you hate certain things, go to reddit with your anger

Kurt Foster, post: 450794, member: 7836 wrote: oh yeah? i guess you told me. lol. and i really don't care what your excuses are.

we've all heard this nonsense from manufacturers who want to use low volt wall warts instead of building a quiet power supply. it's bullsh*t. you need volts and amps. any process you pass electricity through to "transform" it from one stage to another will involve inherent losses. if your argument was the truth why do we see the makers of high end equipment spending so much time and energy on building power supplies? why doesn't Manley or UA just use a wall wart like a pos RNP does? plug your pos car into an extension cord attached to proper mains power and then you've got something.
i've been a contributer here for years. go away.

Kurt Foster, post: 450794, member: 7836 wrote: oh yeah? i guess you told me. lol. and i really don't care what your excuses are.

we've all heard this nonsense from manufacturers who want to use low volt wall warts instead of building a quiet power supply. it's bullsh*t. you need volts and amps. any process you pass electricity through to "transform" it from one stage to another will involve inherent losses. if your argument was the truth why do we see the makers of high end equipment spending so much time and energy on building power supplies? why doesn't Manley or UA just use a wall wart like a pos RNP does? plug your pos car into an extension cord attached to proper mains power and then you've got something.
i've been a contributer here for years. go away.

did you see how other people offered up help and you trolled? Yeah.....

turns out, i humbly came here seeking mixing advice and only mentioned my system that id be playing said tracks on for reference. And if you think that the mobile audio world is just inferior to home audio inherently, heres something you need to know. They both have their flaws, but neither is living outside of a glass house

look, i did offer good advice. i directed you to some free DAW software. i directed you to a page to find additional plugs to use with said free software. i said, "fix your system to sound correct on all content. don't alter the content. alter the system." that's the best advice you will get. and i gave it to you first and at no charge. i'm not selling anything btw.

now let's talk butt hurt and trolling.
you internalized my comments. i never said you did anything. i said i don't think it's good manners to pump a sub woofer at 130dB in a neighborhood. i said cars are a bad place to listen to music. i said a 12 volt system isn't capable of reproducing high quality distortion free audio at high volumes and the whole car stereo competition thing is dumb and it only benefits those who sell disposable audio products for ignorants to put in their cars.

that's what i said and i stand by it.

Kurt Foster, post: 450798, member: 7836 wrote: look, i did offer good advice. fix your system to sound correct on all content. don't alter the content. alter the system. that's the best advice you will get. and i gave it to you first and at no charge. i'm not selling anything btw.

now let's talk butt hurt. you internalized my comments. i never said you did anything. i said i don't think it's good manners to pump a sub woofer at 130dB in a neighborhood. i said cars are a bad place to listen to music. i said a 12 volt system isn't capable of reproducing high quality distortion free audio at high volumes and the whole car stereo competition thing is dumb and it only benefits those who sell disposable audio products for ignorants to put in their cars.

that's what i said and i stand by it.

yeah, about the butt hurt. you said, and i quote "i personally find it to be rude when some ill mannered bling bling flaunting show off jerk drives through my neighborhood on 20's with a sub woofer blasting so loud it rattles all the windows for a mile. if you want to hear that sh*t fine but don't shove it down my throat. btw, i'm not impressed. all it takes is money and the willingness to throw said money down the drain."

let me focus in on 2 parts for you since your obviously ignoring the stuff you said. "i personally find it to be rude when...." and then "if you want to hear that sh*t fine but don't shove it down my throat. btw, i'm not impressed." i wasnt shoving it down your throat, nor did i ask if you were impressed. I asked for mixing advice to get stuff to sound better/lower in my specific system, for which i laid out the parameters purely for reference.

So, the trolling is, at this point, beyond obvious, and derogatory statements (aka, trolling) were made by you against what you assumed i was going to do.

If you want to offer up GOOD advice, cool. If not, realize that you tried to snap your whip and hit yourself in the face.

But, im betting that your chest is still puffed out and eyebrow furled, so fat chance of you realizing your error.

oh, sidenote. I mixed on a 48 channel board for a church for several years and the resonant tones caused by 2 18"s from hundreds of yards away during services provoked noise complaints from neighboring houses, not only when i was mixing, but while MANY others were too. This is pertinent because noise can come from anywhere and anything. Have you ever mowed your lawn? Do you know that your neighbors didnt work a night shift that evening and didnt want the noise from that bothering them? There are general rules of propriety, that if followed, makes 95% of the world a happy place, and this also pertains to when/where you listen to loud stuff. Is the car ideal? no. is anything outside of an anechoic chamber ideal? no. are we talking about IEAL situations? also no. we are talking about adjusting frequencies in music to get the most out of an audio system in a room with flaws. That room just so happens to be a car. So, lets focus on the question at hand, not ones proclivities.

do you have Trumps disease? you know that thing where you hear or read something but you just don't get it?

again, i never directed any criticism towards you personally. i said car audio was a pet peeve of mine and i set out the reason for my feelings. i'm done qualifying my comments.

youdoofus, post: 450800, member: 50627 wrote: Is the car ideal? no. is anything outside of an anechoic chamber ideal? no. are we talking about IEAL situations? also no. we are talking about adjusting frequencies in music to get the most out of an audio system in a room with flaws.

and therein lies your difficulty understanding the situation. you are operating under a misconception. we are talking about peaks and nulls, reinforcements and cancellations along with untamed reflections.

you don't correct (alter) the content, you fix the issues in the listening environment. when you use electronics to alter a signal so you can hear it in a more desirable or flattering way, that effect will only reveal its self in a few specific positions. move a few inches to the left or right, forward or backwards and the effect will be lost. you don't adjust the content you adjust the listening space. this is why your concept is flawed in the first place.

i do honestly appreciate the links provided in your first two responses, but man, you really need some anxiety issues

Kurt Foster, post: 450801, member: 7836 wrote: do you have Trumps disease? you know that thing where you hear or read something but you just don't get it?

again, i never directed any criticism towards you personally. i said car audio was a pet peeve of mine and i set out the reason for my feelings. i'm done qualifying my comments.

and therein lies your difficulty understanding the situation. you are operating under a misconception. we are talking about peaks and nulls, reinforcements and cancellations along with untamed reflections.

you don't correct (alter) the content, you fix the issues in the listening environment. when you use electronics to alter a signal so you can hear it in a more desirable or flattering way, that effect will only reveal its self in a few specific positions. move a few inches to the left or right, forward or backwards and the effect will be lost. you don't adjust the content you adjust the listening space. this is why your concept is flawed in the first place.

ok, i understand that youre still holding on to the mudslinging, but youre opening your mind a tad, and if you think i suffer from Trump disease, you must suffer from Kathy Griffin disease since you wanted to hold my bloody severed head up and then be all pi$$y about being called out on your shenanigans. Let ME deal with the listening environment, all i want is help with the software needed to do what ive set out to do.

I know that spl and resonant frequencies change on environmental influences, but thats MY problem. Not yours

I was willing to help you and explain exactly how you could obtain precisely what you want through LF generation and key-chaining, (which I've personally done hundreds of times over the last 40 years)... right up until you became rude towards a longstanding and respected member here. He wasn't trolling you at all ...
Now you're the one "trolling". You've turned this thread into your own little cluster
f u c k fest. Congratulations on approaching a respected and professional forum with such douche-baggery.
Since you obviously know so much, why are you even here? You seem to know so much about psychoacoustics and frequency response and keying that you obviously don't need the help of us mere mortals here (who have been likely professionally recording, editing and mixing since before you were even born).
As a new member, your attacks on someone's mere opinion - who wasn't personally insulting you in the least - will not get you the help you seek. All you had to do was to say "I get that what I want to do is maybe not pleasant for everyone, but this is what I want to try" ...and I would have personally been happy to help walk you through the process; and knowing my colleagues here as well as I do, I'm betting that the other members here at RO - including the member's head you damned-near bit off Kurt Foster - would have continued to help you, too.
You've quite obviously got a handle on this, maybe you could start your own forum where you could blaze and amaze everyone by your awesome skills and knowledge in mixing and production. After all, you did once touch a 48 input live mixing console. I bow to your expertise.
And with that .....I am outta here.
Get well soon! :)

DonnyThompson, post: 450806, member: 46114 wrote: I was willing to help you and explain exactly how you could obtain precisely what you want through LF generation and key-chaining, (which I've personally done hundreds of times over the last 40 years)... right up until you became rude towards a longstanding and respected member here. He wasn't trolling you at all ...
Now you're the one "trolling". You've turned this thread into your own little cluster
f u c k fest. Congratulations on approaching a respected and professional forum with such douche-baggery.
Since you obviously know so much, why are you even here? You seem to know so much about psychoacoustics and frequency response and keying that you obviously don't need the help of us mere mortals here (who have been likely professionally recording, editing and mixing since before you were even born).
As a new member, your attacks on someone's mere opinion - who wasn't personally insulting you in the least - will not get you the help you seek. All you had to do was to say "I get that what I want to do is maybe not pleasant for everyone, but this is what I want to try" ...and I would have personally been happy to help walk you through the process; and knowing my colleagues here as well as I do, I'm betting that the other members here at RO - including the member's head you damned-near bit off Kurt Foster - would have continued to help you, too.
You've quite obviously got a handle on this, maybe you could start your own forum where you could blaze and amaze everyone by your awesome skills and knowledge in mixing and production. After all, you did once touch a 48 input live mixing console. I bow to your expertise.
And with that .....I am outta here.
Get well soon! :)

well gee whillakers there george. the dude comes out of his corner like mike tyson looking for some ear sandwich, i defend myself against his tirades posting a FEW instances of experience (and that, of course means claiming expertise) and his wolf pack comes to his defense.

Biting a head off? If you didnt see the barrage of crap spewed in response to a perfectly legitimate question, please feel free to scroll up to view the actual troll. He didnt like what the purpose of my quest was for, so he farted out his issues with people blinging on 20 inch rims shaking his neighborhood. But IM the troll...

troll2

trōl/Submit

verb

gerund or present participle: trolling

1.

informal

make a deliberately offensive or provocative online post with the aim of upsetting someone or eliciting an angry response from them.

lets see.... i asked a legit question, he spouted off nonsensical garbage NOT ADDRESSING THE ORIGINAL QUESTION because he didnt like car audio systems... Crazy thought, but uhhhhhh hes a troll

also, OH NO!!!! I angered the GODS of this forum by defending myself. Again, (since he liked referencing Trump), he Kathy Griffin'd an entire segment of audio enthusiast by pigeon holing us all into a nice neat little package with 20" rims on it thatll shake your house when delivered.

HOW DARE I DEFEND MYSELF?????

If it wasnt personal by slamming an entire group of people with an idiotic stereotype that i belong to, then what was it?

heres how his posts went

single link to some stuff

single link to some stuff

(finds out what im trying to accomplish)

i find it annoying when people do xyz stuff in a crappy audio environment. fix your system because thatll totally do what you set out to achieve in the OP

but you dont see any issue with that

DonnyThompson, post: 450806, member: 46114 wrote: I was willing to help you and explain exactly how you could obtain precisely what you want through LF generation and key-chaining, (which I've personally done hundreds of times over the last 40 mixing and production. After all, you did once touch a 48 input live mixing console. I bow to your expertise.
And with that .....I am outta here.
Get well soon! :)

edited because who wants to read that trash again

oh, and better yet, you are even doing the carrot dangle with "i was going to tell you exactly how to do this, but now that you didnt take the abuse from my friend, im not gonna say..." Hilarious to say the least. I came here because i figured that this forum would be the most laid back and lacking in the "douchebaggery" you accused me of. That still may be the case, but you two are no shining example of that.

Awesome job of representing your forum. If anything, you might have reprimanded the dude youre defending for going off the rails instead of the guy who ON SEVERAL OCCASIONS tried bringing it back to the original point at hand...

Thanks for showing that people arent welcome in your playground

youdoofus, post: 450793, member: 50627 wrote: First off, wattage is what the woofers use, and thats derived from volts x amperes. So, whatever trip your on, you might wanna get that looked into.

In the musician and studio side of audio, we measure audio in RMS which meens a 2200watts may be equal to a 120RMS. Like computer speakers says 120watts but it's in fact 5w or even 2.5 (I have seen it) ..
A friend was once so out of his mind because he just bought a stereo sound system and kept telling the 1500watt was so unbelievable. I brought back a peavey KB60 (60watt RMS keyboard amplifier) from my studio and proceeded in surpassing his perceived volume without even pushing it to its limit. My friend was shocked !! ... It's a funny story we both still remember ! ;)

Nonetheless, no need to get aggrevated let's concentrate on mixing part of the discussion please..
Do your software have a gate and a tone generator ?
once you confirm this, I'll try to guide you with the setup..

pcrecord, post: 450812, member: 46460 wrote: In the musician and studio side of audio, we measure audio in RMS which meens a 2200watts may be equal to a 120RMS. Like computer speakers says 120watts but it's in fact 5w or even 2.5 (I have seen it) ..
A friend was once so out of his mind because he just bought a stereo sound system and kept telling the 1500watt was so unbelievable. I brought back a peavey KB60 (60watt RMS keyboard amplifier) from my studio and proceeded in surpassing his perceived volume without even pushing it to its limit. My friend was shocked !! ... It's a funny story we both still remember ! ;)

Nonetheless, no need to get aggrevated let's concentrate on mixing part of the discussion please..
Do your software have a gate and a tone generator ?
once you confirm this, I'll try to guide you with the setup..

Thank you!! I agree, and i apologize for derailing this. Believe me, i mean ZERO harm being here.

Yes, it has a gate and tone generator

Also, some 30 watt combo units can blow your face off!! Theyre potent little things!

youdoofus, post: 450811, member: 50627 wrote: Awesome job of representing your forum.

You need to know that RO (Recording.org) is a great community about recording, mixing and mastering audio.
Some members do not appreciate topics related to other audio applications and activities then those of a recording studio.
We had a few audio car specialists posting in the past and the discussions went sideways because it's not possible to add a drop of knowledge to a cup already full.
Now I'm not saying this is your case (well I hope so)... But, you can understand why some may be more sensible. (hope so as well)

Respect and kindness is one of the priority of this community and I hope you can participate in such manner.

pcrecord, post: 450814, member: 46460 wrote: You need to know that RO (Recording.org) is a great community about recording, mixing and mastering audio.
Some members do not appreciate topics related to other audio applications and activities then those of a recording studio.
We had a few audio car specialists posting in the past and the discussions went sideways because it's not possible to add a drop of knowledge to a cup already full.
Now I'm not saying this is your case (well I hope so)... But, you can understand why some may be more sensible. (hope so as well)

Respect and kindness is one of the priority of this community and I hope you can participate in such manner.

Of course!! and man, ill never claim a full cup, more like some fog that may have condensed on the side or something LOL

and for sure man, im no forum newb, hence why i was so quick to defend myself.

anyways, yeah i in all honesty am just looking for some tips and tricks to lower frequencies, and again, i had no intent of ripples in the (audio) stream

and thank you for seeing past all the previous stuff and honest want to help. Very appreciated!!

youdoofus, post: 450813, member: 50627 wrote: Thank you!! I agree, and i apologize for derailing this. Believe me, i mean ZERO harm being here.

Yes, it has a gate and tone generator

Also, some 30 watt combo units can blow your face off!! Theyre potent little things!

Alright then :
First load you audio on a track of the music software and load the tone generator on a seperate track (with nothing on it)
the tone generator will need to be engage and set to the required frequency. (put the track on mute for now to avoid being blasted for nothing..)
After the tone generator, add the gate plugin and leave it at default settings for now.
On the track where your music is, find the aux send and patch it to send the audio to the gate. It will act as a trigger for the gate.
(well I hope your gate has sidechain fonctions)..
Back at the gate adjust to the sidechain and play with the treasold until you see the gate open on the beats.
Some gates can also be set to react to certain frequencies so this could help as well..

I won't be more specific for now and let you try..
If it doesn't work, try to explain where you're at and we'll take it from there ;)

no wolf pack here. i have been dressed down many times here (sometimes even by Donny) and the idea that anyone is carrying water for me is ridiculous.

you miss the point completely. there are plenty of places on the net you can go to and discuss almost any thing no matter how insipid or stupid it is. you don't have to muddy the water here to do it.

here, we discuss pro audio, production, music and musicianship from the pov of a recording artist or producer / engineer. there are no forums here to discuss audio in vehicles and yes i bristle when anyone attempts to associate car audio with anything in the realm of pro audio production / reinforcement.

i gave you the leads for the "free" software you asked for and the "free" plugs you could get for said software. obviously, what you want to accomplish is so important you don't want to expend any energy or money finding or purchasing it. yet you are more than willing to ask us to tell you how to put your shoes on the wrong foot. then when you get called out for that, you cry foul. and you call me a troll? LOL!

like i said before. go away. it will make us all happier.

There is some 3rd party pluggins that can do the work you want automaticly.
One that pops in mind is this one : http://www.brainworx-music.de/en/plugins/bx_boom
But it's not free.. I'll check if I can find a free one..

pcrecord, post: 450817, member: 46460 wrote: Alright then :
First load you audio on a track of the music software and load the tone generator on a seperate track (with nothing on it)
the tone generator will need to be engage and set to the required frequency. (put the track on mute for now to avoid being blasted for nothing..)
After the tone generator, add the gate plugin and leave it at default settings for now.
On the track where your music is, find the aux send and patch it to send the audio to the gate. It will act as a trigger for the gate.
(well I hope your gate has sidechain fonctions)..
Back at the gate adjust to the sidechain and play with the treasold until you see the gate open on the beats.
Some gates can also be set to react to certain frequencies so this could help as well..

I won't be more specific for now and let you try..
If it doesn't work, try to explain where you're at and we'll take it from there ;)

Awesome!! I have a decent grasp of all of that and will give it a whirl at home! At work currently, but im off in a few hours. Ill check on the settings for freq specific points on the gate. All i have is what came with stock suite, but the second link (4th post) in this thread showed where additional plugins are. This should be at least a rolling start tho. Ill report back with any bugs i encounter. Thanks again!!

here is a free one to test : http://mhsecure.com/metric_halo/products/software/thump.html

Kurt Foster, post: 450818, member: 7836 wrote: not actually gonna quote you as to keep the convo on track, but im not above spurring a notif for ya

just a "this sounds fun and attainable" project for me. Why spend money on it if its not going to yield any?

who knows, perhaps some fun adjusting music could respark an old interest. sharing (info in this case) is caring!!!!

pcrecord, post: 450821, member: 46460 wrote: here is a free one to test : http://mhsecure.com/metric_halo/products/software/thump.html

Right on!! ill check it out!

youdoofus, post: 450823, member: 50627 wrote: Right on!! ill check it out!

Not sure what it will do on a full mix..
All in all, if you make the gate and generator working, you won't need anything else and it will be the exact frequency you set it to... ;)