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Cooling a 12x11 room...

Member for

21 years 2 months
Our AC unit hasnt been working correctly lately and we dont have the money to fix it yet.

Ive been looking at the SHARP library quiet series of window AC units...

Does anyone know exactly HOW quiet these units are? If anything I can let the unit run for 10minutes and freeze up the room while I'm not listening to somthing or I could create some sorta of baffle in front of it...

Anyone have any alternative ideas besides fans?
Anything thats not louder than my monster of a comp is fine... (about 40db)

Comments

Member for

18 years 5 months

Rod Gervais Sun, 06/22/2003 - 12:25
The Sharp library units are very quiet - probably quiet enough that you could record - may require a wee bit of gating - but quiet enough regardless.

HOWEVER - you could have problems with 60 cycle noise fromthe motor assemblies - and even more important - some serious concerns about the penetration through your outer wall assembly.

Placing a baffle of some sort in front of the unit would not be a good idea - you would tend to cause a back pressure on the unit which would cause it to work inproperly = and could cause a motor overload due to the assembly working beyond it's static pressure capacity.

All in all you are much better off using a split system - with sound dampened ductwork between the fan coil unit and the room itself.

But if you have no choice other than a through the wall unit - and will only be working in the room for short periods of time - this unit - along with a custom cover assembly for the shoot itself - would probably be OK

Rod

Member for

18 years 5 months

Rod Gervais Sun, 06/22/2003 - 12:28
Originally posted by Rick Hammang:
:) Hi! Down here in the Sunshine State, especially South East, AC is a given. How big (BTU)? Through the wall, or a window shaker? That's what we call the ones that go in the window.

--Rick
Rick, depending on the degree day design - probably 5000 BTU would be adequate for a room this size down south. You have to be carefull not to oversize the unit too drastically - otherwise you won't get enough run time on the AC to dehumidify the space.

Rod

Member for

20 years 9 months

realdynamix Sun, 06/22/2003 - 12:52
:) Rod, check this. I live in a house built in the late 20's, I am 2000' from the ocean. With an average year round temp in the 80's, humidity @ 70%. :d:

I have (5), 5000 Btu units in smaller rooms, another 12,000 in the living room, and (1) 10,000 in storage just as back-up.

No, we don't run them all at the same time, but a few run 24/7. The Sharp is quiet, and the smaller 5600 through the wall unit is nice. The installation kit must be ordered separate, and is about $50.00.

--Rick

Member for

18 years 5 months

Rod Gervais Sun, 06/22/2003 - 13:04
Rick,

80's year round - man i am living in the wrong area........

Thru the wall (or window units) are great for residential use - and if it's 80's year round and RH of roughly 70% - then the 5000 is probably good for up to 350 s.f..

Even if i used split systems i would vote for multiple systems - smaller splits - so i could more effectively handle my cooling needs by area -
The Sharp 12,000 ( i really do like the sharp line of AC) is probably good under those circumstances (well insulated room - 80's etc.) for somewhere of around 850 to 1000 s.f. (assuming max 8'=6" ceiling height here - would guess your house probably has higher ceilings) without having a problem.

Dry (from my perspective) is always one of the highest on my lists of "have to be's"

Rod

Member for

20 years 9 months

realdynamix Sun, 06/22/2003 - 13:22
:) Rod, and Dig, You see Dig lives in Hell, according to his location. So, I bet it is hot and dry. If you can, for your recording room, there is a 7600 BTU, I think. Made by Maytag, check at home depot, these are pretty quiet.

I found that once you tune into the noise, and you are working on music, after a while, your brain completely seems to ignore the noise. Of course, while recording it can't be on. So your chill down, lay tracks idea would be cool, hee hee pun! Rod, what ways are there to minimize the coupling of the units from their mountings? Be it wall or window. So the vibration of the compressor is not so noisy.

--Rick

Member for

18 years 5 months

Rod Gervais Sun, 06/22/2003 - 17:04
OMG - hell doesn't even BEGIN to describe it.......

Still though - for a super insulated room - That 6,000 to 8,000 seems a bit high.

The rules of thumb for a standard home are:

Up to 150 SF 5,000BTU • 6,000 BTU
150 SF - 300 SF 7,500BTU • 8,000BTU

His control room is 132 s.f. - thus a 6,000 would really be the high end.

Like i said earlier - you are better off with a unit running a little bit more - than being so large that it cools you in a very short time - it takes the longer run times in order to properly dehumidify.

As far as isolating the unit - i have never experimented with this from the point of view of a thru the wall or window unit. For commercial units you would use special vibration isolation hangers manufactured for this purpose - but i know of nothing for the smaller residential air conditioners.

ON this one i go "help" - does any one out there know of a way?

cute pun by the way Rick :tu:

Rod

Member for

20 years 9 months

realdynamix Sun, 06/22/2003 - 17:34
:) :tu: Rod, yea, some kind of neoprene gasket that lines the base, or something.

Dig, How many BTU's of heat does your gear put out, include lighting, and body heat from the amount of people that will be in this room at one time? Also, does any of the walls face the East or West?

Rod, that's the only reason I stepped up the BTU rate. The 5,000's I have do a fair job for a bedroom, but won't do very well if there are things that create a lot of heat. I see the specs on the units too, sometimes I forget that the stove and fridge put out some heat, or the washer and dryer closet really get's warmed up. Or, it's the sunny side of the house.

--Rick

Member for

19 years 4 months

Midlandmorgan Sun, 06/22/2003 - 18:29
Ah yes...Air conditioning...

Out here we run in the upper 90's to mid 100's most of the summer...humidity at 5-15%...

The 275sqft CR has a 5000BTU wall mounted something or other I was given a fews ago...the 400 sqft tracking room has a 12000 BTU gizmo I got at Home Depot...and while we could deal with the noise OK, the biggest headache was getting dedicated power for them, so when they kick on, things don't dim out for a second...each unit is on its own 20A breaker...

That was a 'gotcha' when we were planning this out...so if you don't have it already, you may want to plan the cost of a dedicated line for each AC unit into your replacement funds.

Member for

20 years 9 months

realdynamix Sun, 06/22/2003 - 19:05
Originally posted by midlandmorgan:
Out here we run in the upper 90's to mid 100's most of the summer...humidity at 5-15%...OK, the biggest headache was getting dedicated power for them, so when they kick on, things don't dim out for a second...
:eek: That's bone dry out there, how do you keep your AC guitars humidified? Good Points , goes back to where Rod said, it should run most of the time. Maybe 5000 IS just right, at least Dig may not have to add another circuit! If not save the box, home depot will exchange it.

--Rick

Member for

21 years 2 months

Pro Audio Guest Sun, 06/22/2003 - 20:08
Basicly my studio is planned to be a post production/sound design type personal studio with a decent sized Closet as my isobooth...

So MAX I will have is:
3 Full tower comps...
1 Laptop...
======================================
1 Tower runs at 140 degrees (palamino core) 1.7ghz[Recording/editing unit]

1 Tower "will" run at 96 degrees (Barton core) 2.5ghz [gaming unit] :) ]

1 Laptop (make a guess)

16 pieces of Rack gear AT THE MOST.

Halogen Light bulbs for there low heat.

Mackie 624s.

etc etc.

--------------

This will be one toasty box.

Member for

18 years 5 months

Rod Gervais Mon, 06/23/2003 - 05:32
Originally posted by midlandmorgan:
Rik...I put a soap dish/container drilled out and a wet sponge in each case...for the acoustics, I have a little gizmo that releases humidity very slowly...looks like a small wet rope...

They both work fairly well
Now that is an original idea - although there are commercial humidifiers that utilize a pan and wick assembly - we usually try (within the industry) to avoid them. They work well from the aspect of producing humidity - but the pans are also breeding grounds for various types of Bacteria.

Either a hot or cold steam humidifier is preferable if it fits within the budget. The "Resdelux" manufactured by Blejwas Associates, Inc - is a good quality residential unit.

The other advantage to this is the ability to install a humidistat as a part of the system and have it control the humidifier to maintain perfect humidity. With a wick style humidifier it is difficult to maintain perfect conditions.

Happy Hunting

Rod

Member for

20 years 9 months

realdynamix Wed, 09/10/2003 - 15:53
Originally posted by Aziel:
....i have a LG 18.000 BTU split system and dont feel freeze...what`s ha`pening?
:) Are you in an area with high atmospheric pressure? AC is most effective when removing moisture. Heat and excess humidity add up to misery.

If it is a dry area with high pressure, the cool is forced out of the room very quickly, and the absence of moisture just doesn't feel as cool on the skin. When there is low pressure, the thing should chill very well.

Besides, cleaning the filter alone, the cooling fins behind the filter may be clogged with dust, fibers or pet hair, etc. If that is so, remove the front and use an old toothbrush, going with the direction of the fins, and remove the build up. This is where the water condenses, so it helps to keep the fins clean.

Another reason could be low or leaking cooling gas. If it frosts over, it may be a leak.

I know how AC's behave, being here in South Florida. ;)

Hope this helps,

--Rick

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