A search of the archives should reveal a thread that was on this subject within the last month or so.

Buy a Neutrik patch bay, and then make your own cables...

Originally posted by Doublehelix:
Buy a Neutrik patch bay, and then make your own cables...

I will have to second that...

I have 2 of the common NYS-SPP-L patchbays.

I make all my own cables from Mogami, Canare, Neutrik, Switchcraft, etc...
[I order stuff from [[url=http://[/URL]="http://www.pacrad.c…"]]www.pacrad.com][/]="http://www.pacrad.c…"]]www.pacrad.com][/]

I use Furman patchbays, but I don't think they make them anymore. If I had to buy new I'd probably get the Neutrik's being mentioned here. I make my own patch cables for the front of the bays, plus the studio wiring in the rear. I mostly use Canare and MusiLux (also known as Musiflex) wire. I've also had several Mogami snakes made for me by Hot Wired Cables.

Originally posted by Doublehelix:
Buy a Neutrik patch bay, and then make your own cables...

3rd

thanks guys. I think I will go with the Neutrik bays ( for the time being )

I just learned a painful lesson with my Neutrik patchbays and monster cables...I had the NYS-SPP loaded as the bottom item in a slanted rack (an MAP turret rack) and had screwed in only the top screws (not also the bottom screws). The cables contacted the bottom of the rack in just the right way, causing them to angle enough to disconnect from either the tip or the sleeve of the bottom-most jack, leading to a few dB drop in my balance signals. I took apart my rack, found that the cables were properly seated, but could be forced around so that they weren't properly seated, and pondered how to fix the problem. After 15 minutes, it occured to me that by screwing in the bottom screws it would tilt the unit ever so slightly, anling the cables off the bottom of the rack, and the problem was solved. Now I know why the pros trust only solder on their patchbays...

how does a TRS patchbay score over a bantom or vice versa?