One of my UA 1176LN input pots (UREI 600 ohm T-Bridge Input Pot for UREI/ UA 1176) started getting scratchy. It was under warranty so UA replaced it.
I have another 1176 here which could start acting up some day too so maybe I should be looking for a backup (or two) now.
I contacted PEC, the company that made these for UA, asking if they had one and what it would cost me.
Chris,
This is a custom part we made for someone years ago. We could possibly re-engineer a part for you but the cost would be in the $800 to $1200 range for the first piece. You would be better off going to the OEM of your equipment and buying a replacement from them.
I realize the production cost to restart something but cannot help but think, if people aren't buying hardware like the past, the cost to keep something in production, or the value of vintage gear is going to go through the roof, yes?
I found a few of these on Ebay. Looks like I'll go there for now.
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I agree. To my knowledge the replacement pot actually came fro
I agree.
To my knowledge the replacement pot actually came from UA.
1176's are still in production and I don't expect them to stop anytime soon. But, I would expect the costs to continue rising and/or quality to become compromised due to lack of demand and cost to keep building these things at the same price.
Parts and labour , plus shipping and handling vs coding and download, its no wonder we are heading this way whether we, as analog audio files like it or not.
Through many reasons, we are wanting to believe plug-in emulation is going to replace it all and I expect we will one day forget it ever mattered. Majority of the classics pieces will all be emulated to a time that there will be no way to compare them to the real deal anyway.
Back to the OP, thanks for the cleaning tip. These are sealed pots stacked together. I've read we can drill a small hole somewhere and spray in some cleaner. How you ever done this, Kurt?
Boswell, post: 408424 wrote: I would risk spending the $80 on on
Boswell, post: 408424 wrote: I would risk spending the $80 on one of the ones from Ebay. What's exact model number of your 1176? Do you know which of the U2 and U3 pots you need?
I'm thinking the same. They are both UA 1176 LN SN between 5500 to 5700 . The switch they replaced it with wasn't the exact same but it works like a charm. I did the soldering though and I suck at it. It wasn't as easy as I thought.
audiokid, post: 408427 wrote: I'm thinking the same. They are bo
audiokid, post: 408427 wrote: I'm thinking the same. They are both UA 1176 LN SN between 5500 to 5700 . The switch they replaced it with wasn't the exact same but it works like a charm. I did the soldering though and I suck at it. It wasn't as easy as I thought.
I think we're safe in trusting that your soldering skills are better than those of whoever it was who attached the resistors to the pots in the photo.
Cleaner works, yes. I've drilled holes in hundreds of pots and sprayed in cleaner. It either gives a few years of extra life or a few days.
Here's a tip I was told over 50 years ago: if a pot is audibly scratchy, it's probably because it's being fed from a leaky d.c. blocking capacitor.
Boswell, post: 408435 wrote: I think we're safe in trusting that
Boswell, post: 408435 wrote: I think we're safe in trusting that your soldering skills are better than those of whoever it was who attached the resistors to the pots in the photo.
Cleaner works, yes. I've drilled holes in hundreds of pots and sprayed in cleaner. It either gives a few years of extra life or a few days.
Here's a tip I was told over 50 years ago: if a pot is audibly scratchy, it's probably because it's being fed from a leaky d.c. blocking capacitor.
Well, that clean look sure looks better than my solder result ! I cooked the wire a bit and that makes me sad.
Good info to know Bos, thank you!
audiokid, post: 408425 wrote: I agree. Back to the OP, thanks
audiokid, post: 408425 wrote: I agree.
Back to the OP, thanks for the cleaning tip. These are sealed pots stacked together. I've read we can drill a small hole somewhere and spray in some cleaner. How you ever done this, Kurt?
just spray cleaner around the shaft and let it soak in then work the part. LPS1 won't stain and it dries up almost immediately. the last can of it i bought was found at Home Depot ... it's several years old and is still more than half full.
audiokid, post: 408425 wrote: Back to the OP, thanks for the cl
audiokid, post: 408425 wrote:
Back to the OP, thanks for the cleaning tip. These are sealed pots stacked together. I've read we can drill a small hole somewhere and spray in some cleaner. How you ever done this, Kurt?
Just take it apart clean the carbon strip with distilled water ( pic attached ), let dry lube with lithium grease ( shaft sections not contact ), and reassemble.
Boswell, post: 408435 wrote:Just take it apart clean the carbon strip with distilled water ( pic attache
Here's a tip I was told over 50 years ago: if a pot is audibly scratchy, it's probably because it's being fed from a leaky d.c. blocking capacitor.
yep leaky bad caps.
if there is a demand for that part someone will have them made n
if there is a demand for that part someone will have them made no matter what the start cost is. I wonder how many of these parts UA has in stock? aren't the 1176's still in production? perhaps they are having the part made by someone else now.
scratchy pots can be be cleaned. a lot of people use de-oxit but i have found that a product called LPS1 is much better.